AUTUMNY LEAFY TOP
I am lucky to be blessed with lovely friends who gift me lovely
yarns.
Just yesterday, I received a parcel with this stunning Nako Serin
, Viloft – soft, lustrous with a light sheen, I couldn’t wait to see how it
feels with the hook….
And then all of us are blessed with the wonderful world
of the free wide web and its freebies.. and all the people who browse and share
the patterns the find…. aaaah! How lucky are we?? Don’t look a gift horse
in the mouth ?? hmmm !?
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Materials used : Nako Serin, Sport / 5 ply (12 wpi), ~ 160 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook
This yarn is not specific for this project. You can use knitting cotton with a suitable hook as well.
For Non-Indians : Other
yarns that I have used in this thickness include "I-love-this-cotton"
cotton yarn from Hobby Lobby. This lovely top can be made using any yarn
(and suitable hook), as we're working with stitch count to get width and length
of our garment.
Size made : Chest
: 34” : Length : 22”
Gauge : 5
dc (across) x 2 dc rows (high) = 1”
Size and gauge only given for calculation of yarn usage if needed.
You can make this project to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.
Skill level : Intermediate
to Advanced
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how
you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
This
is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
dc : Double crochet
fsc : Foundation Single
Crochet
fdc : Foundation Double
Crochet
hdc : Half double
crochet
Instructions : (Using
U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This is not my
original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating
freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing
them with you.
Original pattern link
probably one of these two http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/alla190476
Alright , let’s begin..
This is a straight forward, bottom-up pattern.
The designer has started
it at the base and then gone straight up to the shoulders, dividing for neck
and shoulders.
There are two identical halves made for front and back,
which are then joined at shoulder and side seams.
Working off the repeat
count, you can easily increase the width and length of this creation, I’m sure.
The designer has started
with the regular chain start, which I do not personally like (well, not since
I’ve discovered the chainless foundation start stitch method(s)).
You could start with the
fsc (foundation single crochet), or like I have, opt to start with the
fdc (Foundation Double Crochet).
Now about my yarn – I
find Nako Serin is a lovely lovely yarn – soft, with a slight sheen, very easy
to use and smooth. It has been qualified as a Sport weight yarn, but it
feels like the Indian 3-4 ply weight yarn. Nako Serin also feels a little like the Stylecraft 4-ply Baby yarn
I’ve used.
It is a little thicker
than the Indian Peecock 100% cotton yarn, and slightly thinner than our Indian
Laura knitting cotton, so obviously our Anchor /Red Rose and (Indian) Red heart
knitting cottons are thinner.
I think that our Indian
Vardhman baby soft would work well , but do check with the gauge I’ve given
below.
BACK (Make
two)
Our stitch count is in multiples of 27 plus 9.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start with fdc in multiples of 27 + 9.
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ;
yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.
One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
We will use a "V"-st in the following row which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 1 : dc in 1st fdc ; {“V”-st in next fdc} ;
ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , rep {to} once ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 fdc, dc in next 5 fdc ;
ch 2 , sk next 2 fdc , dc
in next 3 fdc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 fdc ; dc in next 3 fdc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc , dc
in next 5 fdc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , “V”-st in next fdc* ;
rep *to* till last 4 fdc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , “V”-st in next fdc ;
dc in last fdc.
Turn.
Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;
ch
1, rep {to} once ;
*ch 1, (sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc) ;
ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in next dc ;
dc in next dc ; 2 dc
in next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ;
{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;
ch
1, rep {to} once ;
*ch 1, (sk next dc, dc in next dc) ;
ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in next dc ;
dc in next 3 dc ; 2
dc in next dc] ;
ch 2, 3 dc in next dc ;
ch 2, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once
;
ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in 1st dc ;
{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (dc in next 5 dc) ;
ch 2 , sk next dc , [3 dc in next dc ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 3
dc in next dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc , rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in 1st dc ;
{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc) ;
ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in next dc ;
dc in next dc, 2 dc
in next dc] ;
ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next dc , “V”-st in next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc
in 1st dc ;
{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in next dc) ;
ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in next dc ; dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc
in next dc] ;
ch 2, 3 dc in next dc ;
ch 2, rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sk next dc , “V”-st in next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 7 : dc
in 1st dc ;
{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, [dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc , 3 dc in
next dc ;
ch 3, sk next dc ; 3 dc in next dc ;
ch 2 , sk next dc, dc in next
5 dc] ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in 1st dc ;
{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;
ch 1, rep {to} once
;
*ch 2, [sk next dc, dc
in next 3 dc] ;
ch 2, sk next dc , (2 dc
in next dc ;
dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next dc) ;
ch 2, dc in ch-3 sp ;
ch
2, rep (to) once ;
ch 2 , sk next dc, dc in
next 3 dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till end
;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
dc
in last dc. Turn.
And yaay, you’ve
finished one pattern repeat.
As you may have seen and
guessed, our pattern repeat is Rows 6-8.
Rep Rows 6-8 till you
get the height / length you need till armhole.
Now as our lengths will
differ, the line we ‘end’ at may differ.
So for the armhole /neckline /
shoulder straps, I will generalize how we’ll achieve this.
It doesn't matter which
row you end with, and I love the scalloped edge of the top bit
So we’re going to start
the first row of our armholes..
Armhole Decrease Row 1 :
sk
the 1st dc, and “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
carry on with the
pattern till end, and sk the last dc. Turn.
Armhole Decrease Row 2 :
sl-
st into the 1st “V”-st ch-2 sp, dc in this same ch-2
sp ;
ch 1, “V”-st in
the next “V”-st ;
carry on with the
pattern till end,
ch 1, and dc in last ch-2 sp of last “V”-st. Turn.
Armhole Decrease Row 2 : dc
in the 1st dc,
“V”-st ch-2 sp, dc in this same ch-2
sp ;
ch 1, “V”-st in
the next “V”-st ;
carry on with the
pattern till end,
and then sk ch-1 sp, and dc in last dc. Turn.
Armhole decreases
complete , you now continue with the pattern till you reach the neckline.
For the neckline, you
need to decide how deep and wide you'd like it.
The shoulder straps are
narrow, as you can see from the photo below.
Once you’ve reached the
neckline row, you will work one shoulder strap a a time.
You will continue with
just the (1st dc and “V”-st in the next “V”-st, and then a dc
in the next ch-2 sp) , till you reach the shoulder level.
Fasten off and weave in
ends.
You will then re-attach
your yarn in the ch-2 sp just before that last “V”-st and complete the other
strap in the same way – so dc in that same ch-2 sp ;
“V”-st in
last “V”-st and then dc in last dc.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
To finish : Complete
your neckline and armhole edges, you could run a row of sc or hdc all around.
You’re done with one
side of your Autumny leafy top – so repeat this for the back, and then join in
shoulder straps and the sides. Weave in ends and block as per yarn
instructions.
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
 |
| And this is the photograph
(designers) that inspired me Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your
cool top on and show off.. you deserve to |
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Here are some of my
older creations. Have fun with these superb patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
