Thursday 16 October 2014

CUTE PINEAPPLE BOLERO

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet bolero patternSweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet bolero pattern
CUTE PINEAPPLE BOLERO

The world wide web and its freebies.. aaaah! How lucky are we?? 
This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 

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Materials used : I've used about 140 gms of Oswal Cashmilon, 4-ply baby fingering yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros ; Red rose metallic or   unbranded  knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size and gauge are not specific.  They are just given for yarn estimation.

Size made : Chest : 26”
Gauge : 1 “V”-st (across) x 2 “V”-st rows (high) = 1”
Gauge is not specific

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                       sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet              ch : Chain
sp : Space                            sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es)                    hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over 
                                                           

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.  For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.  

Right ho then.. let’s see how the designer has thought this one through.  
So this project starts in the center back and you then work four pineapples to complete the back.  
The front has the similar pattern, but cut short to give a good curve for the front lapels. 
A lovely border finishes it all off.

You can make this into a short crop top, by just working two back patterns, and then joining it along the sides, leaving an armhole opening, and along the shoulders, leaving a neck opening.  Try it and let me know how it works out.

So with the yarn and hook I've used, I've got a Size 26” and I think that if you are making this for a different size, you could adjust by increasing / decreasing hook and yarn sizes.  I am usually able to figure out sizing differences and give you an idea of what to do, but with today's project, I'm not that sure - It's gonna be a bit of a trial and error if this does not work to you size.. Play with it and enjoy  

PART 1 : BACK
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro


Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and 16 dc in that circle. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st  dc and each dc till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1st  dc  ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , (2 dc in the next dc ) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) 2 times* ;  
rep *to* 2 times ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) once.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.  

From the next round, we will use a "V"-st.
“V”-stitch : “V”-st : (2 dc , ch 2 , 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Round 4 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 1, sk next 4 dc , 10 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 1, sk next 4 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 1, 10 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 1, sk next 4 dc , join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 2 , [(dc in next dc , ch 1) ; 
rep (to) 8 times , 
dc in next dc] ; 
*ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, chart Round 5 for bolero

Round 6 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp} ; 
ch 2 , sk 1st dc, [(sc in next ch-1 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 7 times ; 
sc in next ch-1 sp] ; 
*ch 2, rep {to} once ; 
ch 2 , rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 7 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st} ; 
ch 2 , sk next ch-2 sp, [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; 
sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp , 
rep {to} once ;  
ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp , 
rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
{“V”-st in the same “V”-st; ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, 
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st } ; 
ch 2 ,   [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 5 times ; 
sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*ch 2,  rep {to} once ;  
ch 2,  rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, chart Round 8 for bolero

Round 9 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp ,  (4 dc , ch 1, 4 dc) all in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp,  “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; 
ch 2,  [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; 
ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp , (4 dc , ch 1, 4 dc) all in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; 
ch 2,  [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp]* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 10 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 2, {“V”-st in the next dc ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc , (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp ; 
ch 2 , sk next 3 dc , “V”-st in next dc} ; 
ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 2, [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 2, rep {to} once ; 
ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 2 , rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 11 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; “V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; 
ch 2, {4 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1, 4 dc in same ch-3 sp}  ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) once ; sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;
*rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 2, rep {to} once ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
sc in next ch-3 sp]* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, chart Round 11 for bolero

Round 12 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
[ch 2, “V”-st in the next dc ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc ; “V”-st in the next dc] ; 
rep (to) 2 times ;
*ch 2 , sc in the next sc, 
ch 3, sc in the next sc ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; 
rep [to] once ; 
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 13 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
[ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1, 4 dc in same ch-3 sp ] ; 
rep (to) 3 times,
*ch 2 , sc in the next sc ; 
ch 3 , rep (to) 3 times ; 
rep [to] once ; 
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Now here’s the fun part.. figuring out how to make this square into the back of the vest !!
Now the designer has given two ‘explanatory’ charts, both of which don’t make much sense to me.. so looking at the lovely photograph also conveniently attached, I’m going to try and get this bit done.  
I have, however, also attached the two charts, so in case you understand how that’s been used, do add it to the comments , so we can help someone else along without our struggle! Thanks   
Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, chart of border for bolero

To carry on, I’ve fastened off now and after weaving in edges, we’ll re-attach our yarn at the right hand side corner “V”- st,(which marks one arm hole). 
So leave that last “V”-st and re-attach in the centre of the 2nd “V”-st, with the right side of your work facing you.

So let’s take a look at what we’ve made.  
We’ve got the ‘pineapple’ in the centre, and on either side we’ve got these’ “V”-sts going around.  We’re going to build up on the “V”-sts now.  
So we have 5 “V”-sts on that 1st line (counting off right of the pineapple). 
We’ll leave the 1st pineapple, and take the other 4 “V”-sts up for the back.  
Make sense??

For convenience, let’s re-number our rows again.

Row 1 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
sk last “V”-st.  Turn.

Row 2 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
rep (to) 4 times till end.  Turn.

Rows 3 – 7 : Rep Row 2

We’ll now split up for the 2 shoulder bits.

Rows 8 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) . Turn.

Rows 9 - 10 : Rep Row 8.

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.  This shoulder done.  
Now re-attach yarn for the other shoulder and rep these rows to match the shoulder.  
Fasten that side off too.. and you’re done with the back.. for now. 


PART 2 : FRONT :  (Make two)

Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and 16 dc in that circle. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st  dc and each dc till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1st  dc  ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , (2 dc in the next dc ) ;  
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) 2 times* ;  
rep *to* 2 times ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) once.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 1, sk next 4 dc , 10 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 1, sk next 4 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 1, 10 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 1, sk next 4 dc , join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 2 , [(dc in next dc , ch 1) ; 
rep (to) 8 times , dc in next dc] ; 
*ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 


Round 6 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp} ; 
ch 2 , sk 1st dc, [(sc in next ch-1 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 7 times ; sc in next ch-1 sp] ; 
*ch 2, rep {to} once ; 
ch 2 , rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 7 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st } ; 
ch 2 , sk next ch-2 sp, [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp ] ; 
*ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp , rep {to} once ;  
ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st } ; 
ch 2 ,  [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 5  times ; 
sc in next ch-3 sp ] ; 
*ch 2,  rep {to} once ;  
ch 2,  rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 


From this round on, the pattern changes from the back. 
The pineapple only reaches completion on the top bit, and the other three pineapples are finished here, and then we reach the width/length needed for our bolero with “V”-sts.

Round 9 : sl st into the 1st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next sc ; 
ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; 
[ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp , 
“V”-st in next ch-3 sp] ; 
rep [to] twice ; 
ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;
*rep (to) once ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ; 
rep *to* once ;
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2 ,  [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 4  times ; 
sc in next ch-3 sp ] ; 
ch 2,  join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Ok another quick look at our work.  
So we’ve now completed the two sides of our work – the top and bottom need to be extended.  
On the top, we’ll complete the pineapple and then match up the shoulder strappy bits, and the bottom, we need a few more “V”-st rows to reach length of back. 
So , sl-st into the ch-2 sp of the corner “V”-st and we’ll complete this top pineapple and shoulders first, then we’ll come back for the bottom bit.

Row 10 : “V”-st into the same “V” st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ; 
ch 2 ,  [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 3  times ; 
sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;   
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2 , 2 dc in same last “V”-st. Turn.

Row 11 : “V”-st into the 1st “V” st ; (ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2 ,  [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) 2  times ; 
sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;   
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp.  Turn.

Row 12 : dc in the 1st dc ; “V”-st in next “V”’ st ; 
ch 2 ,  [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;   
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st)  ; 
rep (to) 2 times.  Turn.

Row 13 : “V”-st into the 1st “V” st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2 ,  sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3 , sc in next ch-3 sp  ;   
rep (to) once ;  
dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
“V”-st in next “V”’ st ; 
ch 2 ,  sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;  
rep (to) 2 times .  Turn.

Row 15 : “V”-st into the 1st “V” st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
sk both ch-2 sps and sc , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;  
dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 16 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp between “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st);  
rep (to) 2 times .  Turn.

Row 17 : “V”-st into the 1st “V” st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
sk next 2 dc, dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 18 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp between “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st);  
rep (to) once.  Turn.

Row 19 : “V”-st into the 1st “V” st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ; 
sk next 2 dc, dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 20 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st);  
rep (to) once.  Turn.

Row 21 : “V”-st into the 1st “V” st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st).  Turn.

Rows 22 - 24 : Rep Row 21.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing your shoulder.
We've finished the top half of one side of your front.. Yaay !  


PART 3 :  BOTTOM FRONT
To complete the bottom bit, turn your work around and with the front side facing, reattach your yarn in the ch-2 sp of the corner “V”-st.

Bottom Row 1 : 2 dc in the 1st “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
sk next 2 dc [part of the “V’-st just used], dc in next dc  Turn.

Bottom Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
“V”-st in the next “V”-st  ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) 4 times, 
ch 2 , dc in next dc  Turn.

Bottom Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) 5 times ; 
sk next 2 dc [part of the “V’-st just used], 
dc in next dc  Turn.

Last Row : Rep Bottom Row 2 once.

And that’s one front side done !! 
Work a mirror image for the other side, and then all we’ve got left is the joining and the border.  Great going !!  

Now that you’re done with both the fronts and one back, go ahead and attach the shoulders and the sides.  Let’s now do the lovely border and finish our bolero up.

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI


PART 4:  BORDER
Keeping the right side of your work facing you, attach your yarn in the ch-2 sp of the “V”-st on one side of your front lapel.  We’re making the first line of ‘base’ sts on which we will run a row of little ‘shells’ – so as long as your first base line is evenly spaced, it doesn’t matter whether you’re working in a ch-sp or st.

Work this border all around your armhole openings as well.  

Work a round of sc and ch-3 sps evenly all around.  So you will start by attaching your yarn, and then sc in that same ch-2 sp and then ch 3, sc in the next sp /st ; 

*ch 3, sc in the next sp/st* all the way around till you reach this first sc again.  
Join with a sl-st to this sc.

Border shells : 6 dc in 1st ch-3 sp, 
sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*6 dc in next ch-3 sp , sc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, chart  for bolero

Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your cool bolero on and show off.. you deserve to  

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Have a great day and see you soon. 

Here are some of my other creations.  









































and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..



















































































and a doll’s top..


I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  


























































For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.







 























































..and some belts..







and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..







.. and some neckwear
















































































https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf