Wednesday, 21 February 2018

AN EXQUISITE INDIAN DANCING DOLL

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AN EXQUISITE INDIAN DANCING DOLL

Crinoline doll


I knew the day I saw the first of these delicate little dolls shared on Facebook, that these would need to be done someday.. Today’s that day..come along and let’s work on this exquisite dancing doll together.
This exquisite (Indian) dancing doll is intended for an exquisite Indian dancer – and I know she’s going to love this bag.

Thank you for joining me as we work on this lovely pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used some locally available unbranded lace weight polyester silk (a.k.akamalkadai / kankri) yarn with a 1.75 mm crochet
In general : This particular kamalkadai / kankri thread is only available in India.  However, one can probably use any yarn with a suitable hook to make these projects.

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                             dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                 ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                 rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
Magic circle :To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

This is not my original pattern but it is my original work. 
I found a chart on the net and as I make my project, these are my notes.
I am tweaking the pattern a bit to get it to the way I want it, so it may look a little different to the chart here.

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and this is the doll that you get when you follow this pattern..


Start Round 1 :  with a magic circle and 7 sc in the magic circle. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  

Round 2 :  2 dc in the 1st sc ; 3 dc in the next sc ; 3 dc in the next 5 sc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 :  dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

From now on, we will work in rows.
­Note : Edited to add : I felt that the neck was too long – but it was too late for me to take it all out.. well, it’s *never* too late, I was just too lazy – so I doubled the neck up (or folded over) and stitched it down and it worked for me. However, the chart shows it this way, so this is how I am writing it – it *may* work for you with your yarn and hook etc.

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Rows  4 - 5 :  dc in the 1st 3 dc.  Turn.

Row 6 :  2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 7 :  2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the last dc ; ch 6. 
Fasten off

At this point, we have just added ch-6 for one side of the shoulders, and we will reattach yarn for the ch-8 at the other end.

Re-attach your yarn at the dc on the other end.

Row 8 :  ch 8. Turn. dc in the 2nd ch from hk, dc in the next 5 dc (6 dc) ; dc in the next 7 dc ; dc in the next 6 ch.  Turn. 
Fasten off

Row 9 :  2 dc in the 1 st ; dc in each dc till the last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc. 
Turn. (21 dc)

In the next row, we’ll work a decrease at the start and end of our rows, using dc 2-tog. Please check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’.

Row 10 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 17 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn. (19 dc)

Row 11 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 15 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.

Row 13 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 13 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.

Row 14 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 11 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.

Row 15 :  dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn (13 dc)

Row 16 :  dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in the next dc and in each dc till the last dc ;
dc in the last dc.  Turn

Row 17 :  dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till end.  Turn (9 dc ; 8 ch-3 sps)

From the following row, we will use a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 18 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , “V”-st in the same ch-3 sp ;
“V”-st in the next 7 ch-3 sps.  Turn. (8 “V”-sts)

From now on, unless otherwise specified, we will work our “V”-st in the ch-3 sp of the earlier “V”-st.

Row 19 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st and in each “V”-st till end.
Turn.

Row 20 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 21 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 22 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 23 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 3, hdc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 24 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 4, hdc in the hdc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 25 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 5, hdc in the hdc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 26 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 8, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 27 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 9, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 28 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, hdc in the next ch-9 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the same “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 29 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, hdc in the hdc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the next ch-3sp ; “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 30 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, hdc in the hdc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 31 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 2, sk hdc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 32 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 33 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

In our final row, let’s work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3 ; sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).  For a “how to work a picot”, please check the top of this blog.

We will work a picot both in the “V”-st as well as in the ch-sps in between.
For the “V”-st + picot, work (2 dc + picot + 2 dc)
For the ch-4 sp + picot, work (ch 2 + picot + ch 2).  In this case, you will actually work a ch-5 first, and then work a picot by doubling back on the 3rd ch from hk, and then work a ch-2 again.  Got it?

Row 34 :  “V”-st + picot in the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st + picot in the next “V”-st ;
(ch 4 + picot, “V”-st + picotin the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st+ picot in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.  We have finished the head, body and skirt of our dancing doll.  We will start on the arms for our doll.

Turn your doll, such that she’s on one side and we’ll work on the arm directly.
Remember that each vertical bar of the dc = 2 sts, so using this principle, let’s start on our arms.

We will work from our shoulder down for the arm.  Re-attach your yarn at the top corner of the shoulder.

Arm Row 1 : 6 dc from shoulder down. Turn.

Arm Row 2 : hdc in the 1st 3 dc ; dc in the last 3 dc (working towards shoulder). Turn.

Arm Row 3 :  dc in the 1st 3 dc ; hdc in the last 3 hdc. Turn.

Arm Row 4 : Rep Row 2.

Arm Row 5 :  dc in the 1st st, and the next 3 sts ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.

Arm Row 6 :  dc in the all 5 dc. Turn.

Arm Row 7 :  dc in the 1st 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.

Arm Row 8 :  dc in the all 4 dc. Turn.

Arm Row 9 :  dc in the 1st2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.

Arm Row 10 :  dc in the all 3 dc. Turn.

Arm Row 11 :  dc 3-tog over all 3 dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

One arm complete.

Mirror instructions for the other arm, paying attention to where you re-attach your yarn for a mirror image

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Hair : For this section, you need to work with your creativity.
I worked a plait after cutting lengths of yarn – so say you want a 3” long plait, you will cut 6” long strands of yarn, and work the plait.  Attach the plait to the back of the head and decorate with beads.

Finishing : Add in bling / jewellery as desired.
Our exquisite Indian dancing doll is ready.  

I decided to attach it on a jute  bag – so I stitched it down and tweaked the arms, stitching them in a cute dance pose to suit the person (a beautiful dancer) for whom this bag is intended.

Have fun creating something oh, so cute! ..and I know your recipient will love it too.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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Saturday, 17 February 2018

PIANO INSPIRED TISSUE BOX COVER

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PIANO INSPIRED TISSUE BOX COVER


This is a pretty neat idea for a tissue box cover, isn’t it?  I am not sure if there is a crochet pattern for this.  So far, all I have seen are embroidered.


This (inspirational) photograph given by my client has been worked on plastic canvas with an embroidery needle – but I love challenges and think I can do just about anything in crochet ;)

I found a chart, but there was nothing that totally made this box.  So let’s figure this out together, shall we? Come along..

Oh, you do know that you can access all my older blogs through the labels on the right hand side of this blog, don’t you? 

Materials used :Today I’ve used just under two cones each of black and white of our local Indian polyester purse yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook
General material info : Polyester purse yarn is not available outside India.  However, I’d say you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely project. 

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

Size made : L : 21 1/2 cm ; H 9 1/2 cm ; W 11 1/2 cm
This project can be made to any size.                 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

How to work with multiple coloured yarnshttp://www.diyhowto.org/tapestry-crochet-free-patterns/


How to join the two ends of your work : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUGb9pIcsXE


InstructionsUsing U.S terminology

For this project, I have been inspired by this free piano key scarf pattern

I also have a chart that you could use if that works better for you.  
The chart is for the whole piano tissue box cover project. 
Check the end of this blog for the chart.

As there are several sizes for tissue box covers, and you can work this pattern using any yarn and hook, I am not giving stitch numbers / counts.  This blog will give you ideas but no specific stitch count

The chart I found has the piano with a rose on top.  My client wanted a guitar, so here’s what I have done... and as you can see, she's thrilled with the project and has sent me some cute photos :)

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You need to have the Length / Width and Height of your tissue box ready on hand.  You can make this to fit any sized box.
We will work three elements for our box.
A) We will be working the black and white piano keys along the
front length of the tissue box ;
B) We will work the top of the tissue box, with a small opening (for tissues to be plied out of) ;
C) We will work three plain sides for the box.
I have chosen to make the top and sides of my piano black, and of course keys are black and white – but do go ahead and use your creativity for your project.

Just two important reminders –
a)   Keep your tissue box handy at all times
b)   Keep a note of the number of stitches you are using for Parts A and B, as you need then when working Part C.

Part 1 : Piano
A)  Front & Length of the box : Piano key pattern

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For this part, I have worked in black & white yarn.
I have worked my full pattern in sc, but you can use any stitch you want – depending on how quick you want the complete the project and what yarn you are using.  I feel that the smaller stitches (sc and hdc) will make the project look neater – and even though it takes time, it will be well worth it.

For the piano keys, I have used the pattern from the link above. 
If the pattern works for you stitch-wise, great!
If it does not, all you need to do is work the length needed (in white yarn) and then divide it equally to get the black stitch in. 
So say 20 sts (as given for the scarf) does not work, and you need 30 stitches to get the length – then you work 15 sts in white and 15 in black when you are working the black key row.  Besides this, just work the pattern as given.
That sorts the length.

For the width of your box, obviously, you will only work the pattern along till you get the width needed for your tissue box.  Easy enough, right? 


B)   Top of the box : with opening for tissue

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For this part, I have used all black. 
So for this section, you need to figure out the size of the opening. 
May I suggest that you keep the tissue box handy – so you get the opening just right.

i)                   Start with the same number of stitches that you have worked for the length of the box (For Part A – i.e Piano key side).
ii)                 Work 1 sc in each st all the way till the end.
iii)               Check how many rows you think you’d need to reach the opening on your tissue box.
iv)              Place markers for the opening, and work 1 sc in each st till you reach the opening.  You will then turn and work only on these few stitches from the end of work to the 1st marker.
v)                Work on these stitches till you complete one end of the opening.  Fasten off, leaving a small tail.
vi)              Re-attach your yarn for the 2nd side at the 2nd marker.  Work the same number of rows as you have for the 1st side.  Once you work the same number of rows on both sides, you need to work a chain to join the 1st and 2nd sides of your work.
vii)            For the chain, count the number of stitches you have skipped between the two markers.  These are the number of chain you will work now, and then join the chain to the 1st piece with a sl-st.
viii)          Now you have two side pieces, and one long chain in between.  Work 1 sc in each sc of the 1st side piece, 1 sc in each ch, and 1 sc in each of the sc in the 2nd piece.
ix)               To complete the top portion, you will once again work the same number of rows as you did at the start.  So say you worked 6 rows and then split for the opening, you will once again work 6 rows now.
x)                 Fasten off and weave in ends.  You have completed the top for the box.


C)   Sides of the box
For this part, I have used all black.

So for this section, I have made three separate rectangles – two each for the sides and one for the back.  Once again, keep the tissue box handy.
The sides are worked for the height of the box (same number of rows as you worked for Part A – front and length) and same number of rows as you worked for the top of the box (Part B).
So say you worked 15 rows for Part A, and 10 rows for Part B, the two sides here will be 15 x 10 rows.  This means that you will start with 10 fsc (that will determine the width of your side piece, and work up 15 rows to match the front height. Got it?
For the one back section, you will work the same number of rows and stitches as you worked for the front Part A.


Part 2 : Guitar

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Chart


I am sure you enjoyed this!  I know I did... creativity at its best!
Please remember to credit the original designer (for the paino key scarf , guitar and / or the chart) when you share your work, and if you have gained anything from my blog write up, I’d appreciate a thumbs up credit as well J

Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of other interesting miscellaneous home-use creations. 
Have fun with these free patterns too