Friday, 28 July 2017

PEACH MELBA BABY DRESS

free crochet baby dress pattern

PEACH MELBA BABY DRESS


This is a really pretty dress.  What drew me to it more was the name of it, and then of course I noticed the pattern was a little different from the shelled one’s I’ve made in the recent past.  Thanks for joining me as we work on this new creation together.

Materials used : Today I’ve about 100 gms of our Indian Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 3-ply yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
For Indians : I’d also suggest using our Anchor knitting , Red rose , White Rose or Alize knitting cotton yarns – and you can get all of this with an easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For Non-Indians : Among the international yarns I’ve used of this category, Stylecraft and Wool craft baby acrylic yarns fall in the similar thickness.
         
Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. 
How to work the fpdc :  yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete 

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Instructions (Using U.S terminology) 

free crochet baby dress pattern


This is not my pattern.  Get this free pattern at
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/easter-dress-2013, and this is the designer's photograph that got me started on this creation.



My notes here are for the few things I worked differently. 
May I suggest that you read through my notes first and then go along to get the dress pattern done at the link above – just so you can have an idea of what all you need to do and where to get it all at.  Sorry that  you need to zip between two different places, but you know I always add something to each of my creations, so I think zipping is worth it J Cheers.

1.       Start Belt row : 
I started with a fsc chain for the belt (with off white – which is my Contrast Colour (CC), and worked a row of (dc ; ch 1, dc) in my Main Colour (MC ; followed by a row of sc in each dc and ch-1 sp all the way through (in CC) to make up my belt.  This way, I can use the ch-1 sps to thread in a thin satin ribbon.  So width-wise, I will still have only 2 rows – just like the designer, and can still use her gauge and her calculations J


Instead of working a few rows each in MC and CC, I decided to add my CC right at the bottom as a frill and have it start out from underneath such that the MC popped out in a shelled scallop on the 2nd last round with a row of CC shells peeping 
out right at the bottom.


2.     Round neck shaping :


I found that the neckline seems a bit too wide for the baby I’m making this for.  I therefore ran another row of decreases using the neckline templates (for stitch count) that I always use (Check the top of this blog for links)

Ensure that you keep with the shoulder sizing as needed for the baby (once again check the links for sizing charts) when reducing the round neck. 

I have also kept a small back opening where I will affix a set of buttons.  I always like a back opening when working on baby clothes for ease of wear.

3.     Collar
I thought a collar would look good – like the designer has in her photograph… but the collar by the designer is made with cloth.  I am going to attempt to make a Peter-Pan-like collar.

First off note that I have a back opening, which I think is necessary if you are working a collar, as your neckline will need to be a lot higher than if it were an open necked dress.  So I have worked 2 rows more, decreasing a little each row, to bring the neckline close before starting on the collar.

So first off, calculations
1)      Count the stitches, and mark the centre stitch (i.e centre front) which will be the centre for both sides of your collar.
2)    Divide both sides in half and mark the centre point, which will be the shoulder mark.  Ensure that this marker does sit on the shoulder.
3)    We are going to use the same pattern for the collar as we’ve used for the skirt portion of the dress.  Our stitch count is in multiples of 6, so you will need to have a multiple of 6 + 4 for each side of your collar around the neckline before you start. In case you have more than needed, do not worry, just work extra dc 2-tog at the start and end, so that by the time you end Row 2, you have the number of stitches needed to work the shelled pattern per the designer’s pattern sheet.

Row 1 : (with the wrong side of work facing you) : Work 1 sc-blo (single crochet back loop only) in each stitch till the end.  Turn.

We will now work only one side of our collar at a time.  So we will start from the end (i.e back opening) and work till the centre front and then back to the end again.  Once you are done with one side of the collar, you will repeat all instructions for the other side.  At any time, if you decide to make any changes in this (to suit your ease etc), please make notes and repeat those instructions for the other side. 

Rows 2 & 3 : (with the rightside of work facing you) : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in each sc till the last 2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc.  Turn.

Rows 4 & 5 : sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end.  Turn.

Row 6 : sc in the 1st sc ; *sk next sc, 5 dc in the next sc ; sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.
In case you wish to have a picot in this pattern, then work (3 dc + picot + 2 dc) instead of the 5 dc.

For the picot, I’ve decided to use a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk). Check the top of this blog for a “how to picot”.

For this round, I’ve adapted Round 2 from the designers pattern sheet for shell pattern

Repeat these instructions for the 2nd side of the collar.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


4.     Border row
You will end with a Round 2 (shelled round) as per pattern by the designer.

I then attached my CC yarn to the Round 4 (all dc round that you have just worked 2 rows below) and worked a fpdc (front post double crochet – check for a ‘how to’ at the top of this blog) into every third dc.  So how does this work?  Looks a little complicated, but it isn’t!

You will basically follow what we’ve been doing for Round 3 –
So : fpdc in the 1st st ; ch 2, sk next 2 sts and then work a fpdc in the next st.
So you will end up with a set of fpdc and ch-2 sps, right?

Now you will work a small variation of Round 1, which I am going to call New Round 1 for ease.
New Round 1 : dc in the 1st st ; *ch 2, sc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the next dc* ; rep *to* till end. 

All you will need to ensure is that you have the dcs and scs in the same sts as you have from your earlier rounds, so that you can then work Round 2 in the CC again.  Got it?

Depending on how long you want this frill and your dress, continue working in pattern, and as the designer has suggested, end with a Round 2.

Just for a difference (again), you could work a picot in the middle dc of the 5-dc set.  I have decided to use a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).  Check the top of this blog for a “How to”.
In case you are working the picot, then the pattern will read slightly differently.  Let’s call this New Round 2.

New Round 2 : ch 1 , *sc in the dc ; (3 dc + picot + 2 dc) all in the next sc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

And just for kicks.. here’s a final tweak.  If you are using a really thin yarn, you could decide to use a trc (Triple / treble crochet stitch) instead of the dc – and you’ll see what a totally different end effect you get of this as well.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

5.      Sleeves

For the sleeves, I’m going to give you two options. 

In both cases, first run a round of sc all around the armhole edge.  Remember as usual, that you will work one sc in each st, and 2 sc per horizontal bar of dc.  Ensure that you have an even number of sc when you finish.

Once again, depending on how puffy and full you want your sleeve, work the distance between your first round of stitches.  The closer you work this 1st round, the more puffy it will be.. so this means that if you sk 3 sc, you will get it less puffy , and if you sk just 1 sc, it will be more puffy.  Got it?

If you are working the simple sliver of a sleeve, then we do not want too much of puffiness.

5A.
So first let’s see how I’ve worked the Simple Sliver Sleeve.

I have decided to work the same pattern as we have worked for the dress, so if you decide to do that too, ensure that you have a multiple of 4 all around.

Round 1 :  sc in the 1st st and in each st all around. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : Remember when you are working along the vertical bar of a dc, work 2 sts, and work 1 st in each sc or ch-1 sp as applicable. 

Round 2 : (which is a slight change from Round 2 of the designer’s pattern sheet) :
sc in the 1st st ; *sk next st, 5 dc in the next st ; sk next st , sc in the next st* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sc to the last st.

In case you want to work in a picot, then work (3 dc + picot + 2 dc) instead of 5 dc all around.

This will give you a tiny sliver of a sleeve.  In case you are happy with this, then fasten off and weave in ends.  In case you want a longer sleeve, repeat the pattern instructions for the shelled pattern, working off our New Round 2.
Continue till you get the length needed.
Rep these instructions for the 2nd sleeve as well.

5B. Puffed Sleeve Ideas
.. and now for the puffier puffed sleeve (which I have not made for this creation, but do let me know how this works out – and of course when you make this, do tag me when you share your creation)

In case you want a puffed sleeve, then what I would do is I’d work more rounds of the skirt pattern (basically continuing with the pattern after the Round 2 above) ; and about ½” before the required length, I’d work 2-3 rounds of sc to tighten the end.  The main thing in getting a puffed sleeve is working more stitches in pattern than you need.  This means that you will need to tweak the start round of stitches and have 1/3rd more stitches than the round armhole has – so you will need to increase stitches along that first round, still keeping the stitch count of 4 for that first round.
Once you have more stitches than needed, work the pattern as normal.  For the last ½” then, you will need to decrease the stitches so that you get the puffed effect and get it to fit around the arm of the baby.

6.     Final touch : You can add a small rose and a satin ribbon.  The satin ribbon is ofcourse, store bought.. and for the motifs, check out this link and you can also make some fun stuff for hair.. and which little girl doesn’t like stuff for hair.. so create.. and spread smiles.
Fasten all ends and block as per yarn instructions.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.


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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few similar creations already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go 









































Tuesday, 25 July 2017

BLUE CAMELLIA TOP

free crochet top pattern

BLUE CAMELLIA TOP


This Camellia top has been inspired by the camellia flower.  So we start our pattern with the beautiful yoke, which looks like this lovely layered flower.   Isn't it gorgeous?


This is not my pattern.  These are just my notes as I work on this project with a different yarn and hook (other than that instructed by the designers notes)

Do check my long Pinterest link for all the free patterns I’ve written up over the years right at the bottom of this blog.

Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 250 gms of Baroque knitting cotton with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with an easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online).  I bought this yarn during my visit to Goa-Mapusa at Kalgutkar store. 

For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia  Bamboo – Viscose 10 knitting cottons.  Technically the yarn I’ve used would use a 1.75 – 2 mm crochet hook but I like the extra stretch that a larger hook gives a yarn.

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 



How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fdc : Foundation double crochet                             ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                 sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                          hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                  yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                        sc : Single crochet
trc : Treble / Triple crochet 



Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Free crochet top pattern


Get the original pattern at http://interunet.com/pink-camellia-blouse-crochet-pattern.  There is a convenient video link given for this pattern as well... and here's the designer's photograph that got me started on this journey.


The project is worked from the top down – i.e from the shoulders and work down to the level you want your top to be (waist length or higher I mean)

This pattern starts with the round neck and is worked down.  Working in rounds from the neck down is a little tricky. 

The designer has given a stitch count of multiples of 14 and the pattern starts with 141 stitches. 
So how does one make this for different sizes.  Usually what I do is work with the same number of stitches as given by the designer and see how that works out for me.  Yes, that does involve a possibility of frogging – but that is a risk I am willing to take. 

If the stitch counts works for you.. YAAY.. else what I’d do is work with a smaller hook and thinner yarn for a more slender figure and a slightly larger hook and slightly larger yarn for a slightly larger figure.

The other thing that you could do is work in more stitches using the stitch count multiples given.

I started with fsc, so I started with multiples of 14 (i.e 140, not 141).

I am using a super fine yarn and I *thought* that 140 would not work for me, so I  added 28 stitches.  After the first few rows, I double checked, and found it too loose, so went back to 140 and it worked!

Just for a small difference, I used a second color and added a few bands of contrast.  For this, I just changed colours and worked a row in the contrast, and then a few rows in the Main colour, skipping between the two to create the pattern.

The use of 2 trc in each stitch is one I have not done before.  I like that it gives a denser look.  I do think, however, that if using a thicker yarn, there will be a lacier look – so if you want a denser look, I’d say use the same pattern but dc instead of trc.  That said, a trc will make your pattern move a lot faster J

So armed with all this extra information, go ahead and create something beautiful.

free crochet top pattern


Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



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Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my earlier creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too