Sunday, 20 August 2017

OFF-THE-SHOULDER TOP 2

free crochet top pattern, free crochet off the shoulders top pattern


OFF-THE-SHOULDER TOP 2


I had a little variegated yarn and I thought it would make a neat short /crop top.. and as usual, I was trolling the net for ideas.  I always feel that with a variegated yarn, one should not work too much pattern detail and allow the yarn to give the pattern *effect*.. after all that’s what you bought the yarn for, right? For its effect, right?

This pattern is simple all the way to the shoulders and then you have this lovely cowl collar right at the top – and I think that is a great idea… obviously you think so too.. so thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Do check my long Pinterest link for all the free patterns I’ve written up over the years right at the bottom of this blog.

And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.
The photo here seems to be a knitted top, so I’ve just looked at and tried to copy the idea for the collar.


Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 175 gms of some unbranded crochet cotton (bought from Australia.  Check www.yatsal.com.au), and half a ball of Red Rose knitting cotton with a 3.0 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Red Rose and Anchor knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Soft knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton, Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cottons.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsdc : Foundation double crochet                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                  sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                     yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                           sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

I have decided to work this pattern top down – from the armhole down to the length you want for your top. So first you need a few measurements
a)   Decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need the round waist
b)   You need your bust measurement
c)     Check which measure is the larger one, and you will need to start with half that round measure.  This is because there are no buttons on this, and you will need to slip this over your head and bust.  The top part will have an elastic, which will help it ease over the body AND hold it there.
d)   We will start our work from under the armhole, over the bust, so this is the place you will measure your length from – not from the shoulders as we usually do.
e)    Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start count.  This means that if your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.



Part 1 : Front and Back

The original pattern seems to be a knitted top.  So for the lower half you can actually work sc / hdc or dc all through from top to bottom. I have decided to work a small lacy pattern – which is not really a difficult thing.
We will work two identical halves for this pattern – so one each for front and back.  The top part is from under the armhole to the length needed, and then the top part is the collar.  You will just work a rectangle from armholes all the way to the waist (or wherever is the end length of your top).
For this pattern, as mentioned before, I have opted to work from the top down – so from the armholes (just over the bust) down to the waist.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 2 + 1 (so basically an odd number) 

Start : with fdc for half the round chest / bust / waist measure. Turn.
It does not matter if you start with fsc or fdc.  Just ensure you get the half round measure right.

From this row on, you will choose your stitch, and work that stitch all the way till your rectangle reaches neckline /armhole.  You can use an hdc or dc.

Now I am going to attach a strip of elastic for the under armhole / top of the bust area, as this is an off-the-shoulder top, so to ‘hide / mask’ the elastic easily, I plan on having a few rows of plain dc at the top and then working the simple pattern all the way to the bottom.

I will then re-attach yarn for the top cowl-like collar of the top, and at we will see if there is a stitch count modification needed.

So for the first few rows, I worked one stitch in each st all the way to the end, till I had about 2” done.  It doesn’t matter how many inches you work here – this is not part of the pattern.  I suggest that you make this as thick (or thin?) as the elastic you plan on using.

Now just for kicks, I decided to work dc in the 1st 5 and last 5 dc, but after a few rows (and being too lazy to frog it all out), I *thought* that maybe it would be nicer without the flat bit at the end – so for the 2nd side, I decided to work without this – now its up to you to decide if you want dc each end.

Right, so once you have the first 5 rows done, let’s work on the simple pattern.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-1 sp , dc in that ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Rep Rows 1 & 2 till you reach the length you want for your top.
Remember that you are measuring from the top of your bust and as this is an off the shoulder, the top will be tight, so you will lose a little length in the bust.  If for yourself, please wear and check length.




Part 2 : Collar

free crochet off the shoulders top pattern

free crochet off the shoulders top pattern

For the collar, our stitch count is in multiples of 2.  We will work this part in one continuous round – so do be careful when joining the two ends of your first round. 
Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

SO how long do we make this first round?  Well, it depends on you.  It will be nice to have this first round going just around the shoulders – so that’s your first round / length.

Start Round 1 : with fdc in multiples of 2 (so an even number of stitches) 
Keeping the chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc all the way around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 3 & 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 5 to 8 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 10 - 11 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; *ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Now depending on how long you want this collar, either stop now or continue.  IF you stop, may I suggest that you work a round of picot all around.  You could also work a dc 3-tog and then work the picot round I’ve written here OR you could just work an sc in the 1st dc (of the 3-dc set) ; sc + picot in the next dc and sc in the last dc, with ch-2 sps all around and finish off.
ELSE come along and let’s work the next round.

Round 12 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 13 - 14 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ; *ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

If you want a longer collar, work one more round of rep of Round 13.

In our next round, we will work a dc 4-tog.  Here’s a quick “how to” refresher
dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.

We will also work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk). And here’s a quick “how to” refresher
How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

The following round can be a little difficult – so there are two ways to do this.  Either you work both the dc 4-tog as well as picot all in one round, or you work it over two rounds.  IF you are able to do it all in one round, work Round 15, ELSE work Rounds 15A and 16

So in the difficult version, we will work a dc 4-tog PLUS a picot over 4 dc.

Round 15 : dc 4-tog + picot over the 1st 4 dc ; *ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, dc 4-tog + picot over the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

OR choose the simpler option and work only a dc 4-tog in Round 15A and then the picot in Round 16.

Round 15A : dc 4-tog over the 1st 4 dc ; *ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 16 : sc + picot on the the 1st dc 4-tog ; *ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, sc + picot on the next dc 4-tog* ;
rep *to* all around, ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 3 : Finishing

Once you have completed both the front and the back pieces, you will join your two shoulder bits and then the sides to finish off the top. 

For the last and final beautiful lacy collar bit, I will give you an idea of what I have done, but there is no real stitch count here.

So place the collar (folded double) over the rectangular top.  Mark the centre front and centre back for both the top as well as the collar and pin this down.  Now continue to pin your collar to the top till you have just the armhole opening on each side.  Your collar will not be pinned down all the way.
(Check the photo)

Once again, using these ideas, one can make this for any size. So I hope you have worked with me this far and will show me your lovely creations soon.  Do remember tag me and share this blog post when you do.  Cheers.

Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too
















































Friday, 11 August 2017

RACER BACK TOP


free crochet  racer back pattern

RACER BACK TOP


Racer backs are the new “IN” thing, and obviously, I must make one of these at least .. in my repertoire.. don’t you agree.   Obviously you think so too.. so thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Do check my long Pinterest link for all the free patterns I’ve written up over the years right at the bottom of this blog.

And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.


Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 150 gms of Indian Red Rose knitting cotton with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Soft knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton, Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cottons.  Technically the yarn I’ve used would use a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook but I like the extra stretch that a larger hook gives a yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ .  In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsdc : Foundation double crochet                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                  sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                    yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                          sc : Single crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

The pattern is not my own.  I have used the free pattern from DMC and this is the link.

My notes are only because of the difference in yarn and hook.

This pattern is worked from the bottom up.

free crochet racer back pattern

I find that the stitch count for this pattern is 22. 
I have started with 220 stitches (per pattern) and I have a first round of 39”.
(Edited to add : I hope that using the stitch count repeat will work.  Please do tell if you are adventurous enough to try, so that we can help others for whom the start of 220 does not work. Thanks)

By Round 8, after a few decreases (per pattern), I have a round of 33”

Round 10 seems to have a typo.  We are working in sets of 9-sts each, so the repeats would need to be in sets of 9.  Hence 2 sc in the next dc and dc in the next 9 dc will not work.  I worked 2 sc in the next dc and then dc in the next 8 dc.

Round 12 again I think has a slight error. 
In Round 11, we’ve got an 18-st set, so in Round 12, we should work in the 9th and 18th sts, I think. 
So rather than ch 6, sk 9 (I sk 8 and worked in the 9th st) ; and then I found that the next part worked (i.e ch 6, sk 8 and sl-st into the next st).

I guess if we marked the centre of each set and then worked in that, it would work too. 

I am not sure if I did it all right, as I am not happy that the 2nd set of triangles did not come in the centre, nor that the waves were properly aligned.  I know though, that when worn, this may not show – but .. hmmm

Front (from waist to shoulders)
I worked the instructions per designer, using only the centre 81 sts.  It did not work for me.  The shape is really good but I felt that there was too much shoulder and chest that would show through. 
I therefore ripped out and started again.  This time around, I have put in a template for the front and am going to map this, keeping the pattern in mind…(something I should have done from the start! Live n learn HAH!).  Basically I just re-attached my yarn further up the back and that way with the decreases it seemed to work better.
As I am starting wider off on the first row, I am changing the sc to hdc in the pattern for the front.
I also worked a dc 2-tog at the start and end of the dc row in between the 3 hdc (or sc) rows.  I think that is a minor typo as well… and the designer has worked a decrease on both the dc row as well as the middle sc rows.
Border (around armhole) :
There is a border running around the armhole & straps all around.  The pattern reads 6 dc shell border, but I couldn’t see an explanation for it.  So here’s what I have done.
I first ran a round of ch-2 sps evenly around ensuring I had an even number of spaces around.
I worked 2 dc in the 1st ch-2 sp and sc in the next sp.  Work this sequence all around and join with a sl-st.

Border (around the bottom) :
There is a lovely shelled border that we work after we finish the top, and we work this in a round.  I started with 220 (like the pattern said).  Now the stitch repeat given her is in multiples of 3.. and 220/3 is not an even number. 
So I worked the shell stitch every 5 sts which gives me an even end result.

Skipping 3 sts and working a shell in the 4th st also gives an even number of shells, but I found that the shells were too close – so chose the 5th st instead.

free crochet racer back top pattern

This is just a small thing – but if you want an even number of shells, please check that you get an even number when you divide the number of stitches you start with and the number of stitches you are skipping. 
This means that if you work shell in one st, and sk 4, you will work one shell every 5 sts.  So 5 is your stitch count. Got it?

In the final round of shells, I have opted to work 7 dc (as against 10 dc) in each ch-sp.. oh and I worked a ch-5 sp all around (as against a ch-7 sp).

I am thrilled that I got my first racer back done.. now to find a model to get this onto social media ;)

Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too