Welcome to Sweet Nothings Crochet Blog where you can find Free Crochet Patterns plus my original designs and creations. :)
Over the years, I've found that there are a lot of free charts available on the net, so as I make the project off that chart, I write down my notes and share them here on my blog. Hope you enjoy it, and thanks for stopping by.
And inspired by
these photos, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.
Materials used : Today I’ve used
~ 150 gms of the lovely All Seasons Hobby India acrylic yarn with a 3 mm
For Indians : Our lovely
Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good
substitute. I’d also suggest Alize
cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top
right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For Non-Indians : The other
international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting
cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting
: Advanced Skill level.
Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
: This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double
crochet stitches. This makes your whole
project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree! If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder
why you never used this start before !
Chainless dc start :
Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this
lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory
video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ . In case you are unhappy with this
start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start. However, all instructions are given assuming
that you’re using this chainless dc start.
dc 2-tog : Double
crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp,
yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo,
draw through all lps on hk. One dc 2-tog
We start our project from the bottom up – from
the base of the top to the shoulders. So
our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you
are working with – ie. How long do you want your top? IF you want it till the
waist, then you will start with half round waist measure.
Remember that you need to check both the half
chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half round measure. Also keep the stretch of your yarn as well as the tension (tightness / looseness) of your crochet work in mind when working with tops.
Our pattern is a direct copy of the skirt – it’s
just worked upside down. This means that
the top of the skirt (around waist) is the bottom of our top (also around waist!).
So you are working the exact same pattern, just
that you are working it UP to the shoulders, while the skirt was worked DOWN to
Great 2-in-1 pattern, right?
One other thing that I’d like to mention before
you can whizz off to get the pattern.
The pattern has a fixed start fdc count of 76. Look at the pattern. It has a centre
pineapple section and sides that are plain.. So here’s where you need to work
in calculations and work a small swatch to check your gauge and see how many stitches give you how many inches for the plain section of the pattern.
The centre pineapple bit is 30 sts, and the
plain sides are the balance 46 (so 23 on each side). The centre 30 sts stays the same, and that
will be worked in pattern. You can add
to the side 23 sts in case you need to.
So here’s what you will need to do. You will need to work a gauge swatch with
your yarn and see if you get the gauge given.
The pattern has been worked for a 27-29” waist. In case you get gauge, then you will get a
27-29” waist ; and that’s how you will calculate how much you need to add to get
the size you’ll need.
The other thing you can do is work the pattern
for the first say 5 rows.. and then measure and decide if you need to add to
the side 23 sts. I'm sorry with certain patterns, it is just too difficult to figure out a stitch count to make it usable in any situation... but then this is what creativity is all about! Here is the upside down chart for you :)
have successfully finished two halves of your top. Using one of the joining methods giving above,
join the sides of your top.
need to decide on how wide you want your neck opening.
markers to define the two sides points of the neckline.
rings to both sides of the top spacing them evenly apart. It does not matter how many rings you use.
Personally, I’d say a little more rather than less – as that would improve the
that you attach rings in exactly the same point for both halves (front and
back) of the top.
rings that will mark the shoulders and then sleeve (cold shoulder portion) of
finished the top, I thought of a great idea – you could attach a bead bang
centre of your ring – and bling it up a bit.
Go ahead, create – but do remember to mention me when
you show off this creation ;)
are done with the shoulders, we will do the final finishing for the base of the
top. The lower edge of the top is a
little “off” where we have worked the pineapple bit. So here’s what I did
rounds of hdc all around. Join with a
sl-st at the end of each round.
that you have hdc in multiples of 5 when you are done. If you are running off count, reduce to cinch
the waist, rather than add stitches to get the stitch count.
border, let’s work a small shell pattern all around.
1 : sc in the
1st hdc ;
*sk next 2
hdc, 7 dc in the next hdc ; sk next 2 hdc, sc in the next hdc* ;
all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
completed the crochet portion – now to join all these elements together.
where your creativity comes in again.
see how many ‘pineapples’ you have along the last row and find the centre
one. Count off that centre one to see
how wide you want your neckline opening and mark the pineapples to decide the
need to join the last 2 pineapples for the front and back of the top
these two markers, you need to decide how many more joints you would like
between your front and back
also decide to allow the top to just flop down after placing two attachments
for the shoulder portion. This would
mean that you do not join the sleeve ends and that will flop down like an “open
the markers together, I suggest you use (plastic) rings. I have covered the rings with yarn not just
to give uniformity but also to aid in attaching the two rings (back to front)
need to first attach the ring to the marked point on the top (one ring each for
back and front markers) and then attach together. Please wear them after you
attach each set of rings to check that they are as loose (or tight) as you want
them. If you are making this for someone
else, please check this against their top measure(s) or draft.
and glue down all ends and block as per yarn instructions.
it.. we’re done with this splendidly beautiful creation.
that when you wear your top and show off on social media, tag me so I can enjoy
all this loveliness as well. J
Do come back right here for more freebie patterns
If you're visiting me here for the first time,
and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your
convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and
link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress. Thanks.
am making this jacket for a very special animal lover. I made the original pattern by Amy Brewer for the scarf first. The
idea of paws running up and down the jacket was just too good to miss out on,
and I am thrilled to say that when I wrote to the lovely designer, she gave me her permission to use it in this project.
Materials used : Today I have used about 120 gms of some Indian unbranded
knitting cotton , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
This is the unbranded knitting cotton from Samrat Megastore. Check the page on Facebook. You can also use the wonderful Indian Anchor or Laura knitting cottons with
a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
Among the international yarns that I have used of similar
thickness , I’d say you could use Aunt Lydia cotton 10, Sullivans (Australia) ; Milford soft knitting cotton ,
DMC Petra knitting cotton and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cotton. Edit : Amy Brewer added that she thinks Cotton 3 would be a better fit than Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 as it is heavier and would give a better fall. :)
said, you can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of
starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. This makes your whole project neat and even..
in a way that you need to do once, to agree!
If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this
start before !
Amy has several pattern ideas using the paw
print, so do check the above link out.
I am going to tell you how I worked on my jacket here, adapting Amy’s
a)We will work one back and two fronts. You can either work three rectangles for each
part, without shaping the armholes, or neckline. The front sections then will fall with a
collar like presentation automatically.
b)OR we work on the one back and two fronts with a small
shaping for armhole and neckline, which is what I opt on working on here today.
c)The blanket pattern link given above works better, as we
are all definitely going to need more than 20 sts to work a width
d)The pattern repeat is in multiples of 20 (if you are
starting with the fsc – please check the pattern link for not starting with
e)Our pattern is worked bottom up – so we will start at the
base of our jacket and work our way up to the shoulders.
f)Start with multiples of 20, as given in the instruction
sheet. For the back, work half the round waist / round chest and for the two
fronts, work half the measure you are using for the back.
g)Check waist and chest and use whichever measure is larger
– so that the jacket fronts neatly go across and close across the chest.
are two ways to make this jacket – the Easy and the Pretty tough one. For both, you will need to go to the pattern
instructions and work a rectangle till you reach the armhole / neckline.
the easy route, you will not working an armhole or neckline shaping / decrease.
You will make a rectangle for the back and two smaller ones for the front –
starting from the base and working all the way to the shoulders. You will then return here and check finishing
the Pretty tough route, you are shaping the armholes and neckline, come
back here for decrease ideas.
Armhole decrease ideas :
you are planning on a small decrease / shaping along the armhole, come along
and let’s work on this together.
a)As I always
suggest, place your work on top of a good fitting top and see approximately how
much you want to shape in.
the 1st 5 dc, and dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc
pattern all the way till the last 7 dc, dc 2-tog over in the 7th and
6th dc from end, and turn, leaving last 5 sts unworked.
over the 1st 2 sts and then work in pattern till the last 2 sts ; dc
2-tog over the last 2 sts. Total
decrease of 7 sts made.
working without any further decrease all the way till you reach the neck
f)So what is
the difficulty? Well, depending on where
you start your armhole decrease, you will need to keep a track of where the
‘holes’ for the next set of paws come along.
So say you have decreased 6 sts with the 1st decrease (Point
b) ; and then another 1 st via (Point c)
on each side ; when you are working the pattern row, you will need to
calculate how many stitches to the next paw hole pattern.
g)It may also
happen that one of your little paw holes are right at the end (say you decrease
Row 4, Row 10, Row 12), so you will have one little toe less on that paw print
– and you could decide to take the whole paw off or work with one toe missing!
That part will go under the armhole anyway.
every row where we are starting the base of the paw (i.e Rows 2, 6, 10,
14…), you will need to start your pattern 7 sts from end. What does this mean? Say for Row 14, we need
to start dc 12, you will start dc 5 (12 – 7 sts) and then work the pattern,
ending similarly with a different number of stitches. The dc in between two sets of paw
patterns will remain the same.
Complicated? Yes, a bit.. but like a puzzle, you will get this done bit
by bit and enjoy it.. trust me!
rows (i.e Row 15, 16, 17 in this case) for the completion of this paw will be
easy as you just follow up till that ch-4 sp and work back from it for the
little four toes.
suggest that you keep a track of whatever you are doing for the decreases here
as they will help when you are working for the front armhole shaping.
k)But this is
where your creativity comes in – and no one knows what you are creating
anyway.. this is Your Jacket! Go create.. go crazy.. have fun!
Neckline shaping ideas :
you are planning on a small shape along the neckline, come along and let’s work
on this together.
deep and wide you want your neckline.
Place markers to mark the two side points of the neckline
pattern till the marker and then turn back to work in pattern back to the
working only on these few stitches from armhole to neckline till you reach the
you have worked for one side of the front on the other side as well.
worries / calculations that you went through for the armhole are here as
well. What I did was keep track of the
changes I’d made for the armhole, and tweaked them again for the neckline – and
then kept track of what I was doing for one side to duplicate for the other.
you could well decide to have a pair of rectangles for the front, without any
front neckline shaping
you have got the two fronts and one back all done, we are set to finish and
join this all up.
a)Use one of
the links at the top of this blog to join the two shoulders and sides.
b)Run a round
of sc all the way around the neckline and armhole to even the edges out.
decide to run an additional round of sc just to get a neater edge.
that’s it.. your exquisite and unique Pawz vest is ready to wear show off.
this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the
experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my
future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.