CUTE IN PINK .. DE-MYSTIFIED
General Start : Look at the chart (top of this blog - "chart for neck sizes", and see which size suits your child. So just to get this going, let's look at one for 18-24 months (meses) and the start there is with 66 stitches (cadenas). The break up is 10 + 13 + 20 + 13 + 10. So this means that there are 20 sts each for back and front, and 13 each for the shoulder/sides. The back is broken into 10+10 to accommodate the button flap.
So if you are using these charts, you need to do the following :
a) Find which chart suits your child
b) Place a marker at the stitch as per the numbers given. So for the above chart, you'd have one on the 10th, then 13th after that , then 20th after that.. so on till the end.
c) The four markers that you will place, will be your four corners.
d) Row 2 below tells you what stitch to use till corner, and what to do at each corner. Follow these instructions and you're on your way to making it just right for your baby girl.
e) Remember though that Row 2 is giving instructions specifically for a start with 56 fsc. If you are not starting with 56 fsc, then the rep (to) will differ. So for eg, it reads rep (to) 3 or 6 times in Row 2, but you may have to work a different count. Just remember that you work the pattern not the repeat count between corners, and you work the pattern stitches at the corners as given.
dc in ch-2 sp (at corner), ch 2, dc in ch-sp ;
*dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ;
rep from (to) 6 times ; dc in next dc ; ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ;
rep from *to* twice ;
rep from (to) 3 times till end. Turn.
rep from (to) 3 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2 ;
*2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 10 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch-2* ;
rep from *to* twice ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 4 times, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.
The stitch count for the skirt part is 15 st , so ensure you are in multiples thereof all around.
A quick idea : If you want to make your dress more flared (as against the "A"-line I have made), you need to increase the number of stitches you start with, keeping it still in multiples of 15
So figure out how flared you want it, add in the stitiches and let's start on the skirt.
For those of you who can somewhat follow a chart, please use these steps above, so you can try to improve your chart reading skills. You can take a sneak peek to see that you are doing it right, as I am giving the detailed instructions below. Please do not get confused with the duplicate set of instructions.
So for a more detailed instruction, let's get down to the nitty gritty. Please look at joining instructions here and try to follow chart as well.
[ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st] ; rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 3, and dc to join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
As we used a dc to join, you are now in the center of the last ch-5 sp.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; *[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc ; (2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
dc in the next 3 dc ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 5, and dc to join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; *[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
ch 5, dc in the next 5 dc ; (2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
dc in the next 5 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ; and join with a dtr (double treble) to the 1st st.
dtr : Double treble – (which means you loop your yarn around hook 5 times)
Rep Rounds 1 - 4 to get the length needed.
Remember that with each round, you are working only in the ch-2 sp of the shell from the earlier round, and that's how your pattern grows in length.
Check the top of this blog for a "how to picot".