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Saturday, 9 August 2014

CUTE IN PINK - DEMYSTIFIED


CUTE IN PINK .. DE-MYSTIFIED

This is just an explanation of what I’ve done with the pattern for this dress.  This original creation has been thought out in detail by some other genius, and I take absolutely no credit for it.  However, the original stunner is written in Russian(?) and after going through the chart, this is how I made the dress – so I thought I’d just explain it out here.
This pattern has not been tested after I’ve written it down.

And this is the inspirational photograph that got me started on this journey



This dress is worked in two parts – we start with the yoke, which is from just under the armhole to the shoulders, and the neck is a squared one. 

For the frilly lower part of the dress, we reattach to the first start line, and continue downwards.

Materials used : 4-ply baby wool from Stylecraft (0.6 skein = 506.40 m / 553.8 yds / 60 gms), with a 4 mm (US 6 , G) crochet hook.  
Note : I found this yarn is almost similar to the Indian Oswal / Wendy 4-ply regular yarn, and I think the Vardhaman baby soft would work too
Gauge : Yoke : 2 dc rows x 5.5 dc stitches across = 1”  ; Skirt : 2 shells (rows) x 1 shell across (where 1 shell = 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) = 1”

Useful link  for how to measure children http://www.leenas.com/English/measure_children.html and if you want to figure out how to increase/decrease this square neckline, check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuZOjy1WfDM


I’ve made this dress for a 9 -12 month old Size 20 chest, and started with (14 sts x 3 sides) + (7 sts x 2 for back) = 56 fsc.  In the chart below, the ‘circles’ represent ch and the other symbol is for dc.
Now using the chart below (as a guide for a square necked yoke, as the no. of sts used differ from our start count), start with 56 fsc
Please note however, that I’ve substituted the start ch line with fsc.

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, pl view the superb video by Tamara Kelly at this link below http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video. http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 start.  However, all instructions will be given as 2 dc, assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.




Start with 56 fsc : ch 2 in 1st fsc (counts as 1st dc), followed by dc in the next 5 fsc, 2 dc in the next fsc ; *ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the next 13 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ; rep from * to * twice till last 7 fsc ; ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in each fsc till end.  Turn. (8 sts increased)

Row 2 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ; rep from (to)  3 times ; dc in ch-2 sp (at corner), ch 2, dc in ch-sp ; *dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 6 times, dc in next dc, ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ; rep from *to* twice ; rep from (to) 3 times till end. Turn.

Row 3 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ; rep from (to) 3 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2 ; *2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 10 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch-2* ; rep from *to* twice ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 4 times, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 five times = yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 9.5-10”.
After completion of yoke and before starting on the skirt portion, I did 2 rows of sc for placket along the back edge, ensuring I made the ‘eyeholes’ for my buttons on the left hand side, and then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now easier to calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.  



In another dress, I’ve used a similar yoke, for a finished chest width of 23-24”, so here are those calculations.  Adapt skirt calculations to fit for this yoke as well, and you can make a larger sized dress too J.  The yoke chart above works well for the counts given below (i.e for a 24” chest)

For start with 75 fsc : ch 2 in 1st fsc (counts as 1st dc), followed by dc in the next 7 fsc, 2 dc in the next fsc ; *ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the next 17 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ; rep from * to * twice till last 9 fsc ; ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in each fsc till end.  Turn. (8 sts increased)

Row 2 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ; rep from (to)  4 times ; dc in ch-2 sp (at corner), ch 2, dc in ch-sp ; *dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 9 times, dc in next dc, ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ; rep from *to* twice ; rep from (to) 5 times till end. Turn.

Row 3 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ; rep from (to) 4 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2 ; *2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 12 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch-2* ; rep from *to* twice ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 5 times, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 three times, and then Row 2 once more = yoke of ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 11 – 11.5”.

SKIRT
The pattern is a 15 st repeat, so ensure you are in multiples thereof all around. 
The chart is in blue for every alternate row, and the joining chains are shown in red
Each large shell in this pattern is made up of 4 rows of shells, as explained below
Round 1 : Shell is 3 dc, ch 5, 3dc
Round 2 : Shell is dc in 1st 3 dc, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in last 3 dc
Round 3 : Shell is dc in 1st 5 dc, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in last 5 dc
Round 4 : Shell is dc in 1st 7 dc, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in last 7 dc.

The joining chain between two sets of shells is a ch-5.  In the last join, instead of sl-st into the ch (as we usually do to join a round), sometimes the join is with a dc / trc or dbl trc as below

Joining for Round 1 : 3 ch, 1 dc (so you are where you need to be to start with ch-5 for Round 2)
Joining for Round 2 : Join with a regular ch-5
Joining for Round 3 : Join with a double treble – (which means you loop your yarn around hook 5 times)
Joining for Round 4 : Join to the top of the ch 2 or ch 3 (which is the 1st dc for the start of your rounds – depending on whether you’ve used a ch 2 or a ch 3 as your start dc.  I prefer a ch-2, as the length of my dc is then perfect).
 



And now to return to the finishing for our lovely dress – I did a quick Shell (similar to that used in Round 1) all around the armhole , so here my repeat was *shell in dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk 2 dc* all the way around.

To complete, buttons in the back placket and a lovely pink satin ribbon threaded through the last row of ‘holes’ in the yoke to complete the top portion of your dress.

For the base of the skirt, I just thought I’d throw in a few picot (ch 3, sl-st into the top of dc).  So sc in each dc till the top (or bottom) of the “V” end points of the chevron as shown below, with an sc in all the other dc






Hope this explanation has helped and as I said before, I have written out the pattern instructions after I made my own project, so I do apologise for any typos and would appreciate your feedback.

Enjoy making this really cute pattern for a baby – using the original pattern for 0-3 months and then my larger versions for 9-12 months or Chest size 20” J