Thursday 14 August 2014

MOROCCAN TILE TOTE



Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet bag pattern

MOROCCAN TILE TOTE 

Taking the idea from the absolutely superb pattern by Tamara Kelly of Moogly (Moroccon Market Tote from Moogly Blog  http://www.mooglyblog.com/moroccan-market-tote/ ), I’ve altered the stitch, but using the same basic design have made this bag.  

While I have only used two colours, I would say (especially if using as a market bag), then this is a great stash buster and you can use as many coloured yarns as you'd like.  For strength though, I'd suggest you use a similar weight of yarn throughout this project.

The original pattern uses the dc in the “V” st, but here I’ve changed that stitch to the 
e-sc ;  so the end result is the same, but just cuter smaller stitches – and a ‘chain-like / flower-petal-like (?)’ effect that follows due to this stitch. 

I’d like to thank Tamara who has kindly allowed me to use her idea for this pattern. 

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Materials used : 4-ply Oswal fingering yarn with a 4.5 mm (US 7) with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle zipper ; bag handle

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros or unbranded knitting cotton as well
General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size : W : 14.5” x H :  16” and length of handle : ~12.5”

Gauge :  1 ‘V’-st across x 1 diamond high = 1”
Gauge is not important for this pattern as you can make it any size.  Given just so you can get an idea of yarn usage.



Abbreviations :  (Using U.S terminology)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                  hk : hook
lp(s) : Loop(s)                     yo: Yarn Over
sl-st : Slip Stitch                 
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
MC : Main Colour            
CC : Contrast Colour
Dc : Double Crochet       
e-sc : Extended single crochet
                                                         

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw 

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Crab stitch / Reverse single crochet : (Reverse sc) : This is your regular single crochet st, but done in reverse.  So instead of moving ‘clockwise’ as we regularly work, you move anti-clockwise or counter clockwise, and you’ll achieve a slightly ‘bumpy’ single crochet, which is your reverse sc. 

e-sc  : Extended Single Crochet : hk into st, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through one lp, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through both lps.  One e-sc made. (An e-sc is basically an sc on an sc)

How to work an e-sc

How to work an e-sc

How to work an e-sc

How to work an e-sc

PART 1 : Bag Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.  For your convenience, I have also added tutorials just before we use the stitch.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 

We are working here with only 2 colours, and the colour that you wish to have the ‘diamonds’ in will be your CC (off-white in my case), and I’m using my black as my MC.  
I am also using the  chainless dc start  through pattern, so all start will be direct dc (i.e not the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start).

Our stitch count for today's pattern is multiples of 3.  

Though the pattern follows the original pattern (by Moogly), I am writing it out again for you.  
You can make this bag for any size.  
Here's what I suggest.  
Start with the numbers given below, and if the size does not work for you,  (after Row 3) then you can re-start with any number in multiples of 3.  

We start with fdc or foundation double crochet 
If you do not like this start, start with 54 + 2 chain and then work your 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hook.  I would urge you to try the fdc though.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even... In a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before! Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Row 1 : With MC (black), with 54 fdc  (or multiples of 3 for the width you want for your bag).  Turn. (54 fdc)

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : dc in each fdc till end.  Turn.  (54 fdc) 

In the following row, we will work till the end of the row, then  turn at the end, work a few stitches in the corner stitch and then continue on to work along the stitches at the bottom of the row and all the way back to the 1st st. 

To see what I mean, here's a video tutorial.  I've worked with fsc in the video but the principle is the same. 

Row  3 : dc in each fdc till 2nd last fdc ; 
6 dc in the last st ;  
Turn your work 180° and work along the bottom of the fdc row ; 
dc all the way across the bottom of the fdc row till the last st ; 
and 5 dc in the last/ 1st st.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st (120 fdc)

Note : Check that you have a multiple of 3 sts.  
We will work in rounds from here on.  

Work in MC for a few rounds if you want a plain base before we start the pattern.  I worked for about 2" in all black.
Now if you have worked a few rounds, the following round will not be your 4th round, but for convenience, I'm continuing numbering.

V-st : 2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc

Round 4 : (With CC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st dc, 
*sk 2 dc, ‘V’-st in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till last st.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (40 ‘V’-sts)

Round 5 : (With MC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st ‘V’-st and in each ‘V’-st till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
(40 ‘V’-sts) 

In the following round, we will work our "V"-st in the space between 2 "V"-sts
Round 6 : (With CC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st sp between 2 ‘V’-sts and in each sp between 2 ‘V’-sts till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (40 ‘V’-sts)

Round 7 : (With MC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st ‘V’-st and in each ‘V’-st till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
(40 ‘V’-sts)

You will notice that your lovely diamonds have started to form, and you’re set to go. 

Rep Rounds 6 & 7 till you are at a height you are happy with, ending with a MC Round 7 row.  

I’ve stopped after 20.5 diamonds on a MC (Black yarn) row, with a height of ~ > 13”.

Before you end your bag, check the instructions for the handle.

PART 2 : Handle
This part has been really well explained in the original pattern too, so please check that link for the handle given there.

I’ve improvised a different handle, so my instructions here will differ. 

Place your bag flat and look at your ‘join’ line.  You will see that it ‘moves’ one stitch (to the right) with every round).  So keeping this side facing you, mark the two corners of your bag now, which will serve as the corner points for your handle.

Fasten off CC.  Weave in ends.


PART A :
So here I plan on making a flat handle and looping this through the top of the bag.
In this first part, let's prepare the top part of the bag  and make four holes along the edge, and then in the second part we will make our strap-like handle.

Round 1 : (With MC) : sc in the 1st st (same st as the join); 
1 sc in each dc (of the ‘V’-st) and each ch-1 sp till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 sc)

Rounds 2 - 4 : (With MC) : sc in the 1st sc and each sc till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 sc)

Now let's mark four points in the each corner.

a)   Point 1 : Count 10 sc from one side of your original side marker, and place a      new marker that we’ll call Point 1.
b)   Point 2 : Count 20 sc from this point (i.e Point 1) in such a way that there are 10 sc on either side of your original side marker. (Remove original side marker)
c)     Point 3 : Count 10 sc from the other side of your original side marker, and place a new marker that we’ll call Point 3.
d)   Point 4 : Count 20 sc from this point (i.e Point 3) in such a way that there are 10 sc on either side of your original side marker. (Remove original side marker)

You now have the four points where we will skip a st to make a ‘hole’ for passing your handle.
Chart and photo below to show you how the ‘holes’ are needed and how we’re going to ‘lace’ our handle through it 
Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet bag pattern, chart to explain handle joining,


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet bag pattern, photo showing how handle looped through holes,

Round 5 : (With MC) : dc in 1st sc and in each sc till the Point 1 marker ; 
*ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next dc , dc in each dc till next Point marker* ; 
rep from *to* till end.   
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 dc)

Round 6 :  (With MC) : sc in the 1st dc and each dc and ch-1 sp till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (120 sc)

Last round : (With MC) : Crab st in the 1st sc and each sc till end.  
(Please check the top of this blog for a "how to" for crab stitch/ reverse sc)
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.


PART B 
:
Here we’ll make a strap-like handle.  

Row 1 : Fdc 180 (or the length you wish for your handle.  I’ve got a ch length of ~ 46”).  
Turn. (180 dc)

Row 2 : dc in each dc till end .  Turn. (180 dc)

Row 3 : Rep Row 2

Last Row : (Fold your strap in half, and we will now sc  together from this row into the 1st row of fdc to complete our strap), sc in each fdc till end.
  
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.  
DO NOT ATTACH together.  

First lace it through the openings of your bag, THEN attach the two ends neatly.


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet bag pattern. photo showing how to join handle ends,
DO NOT ATTACH 


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet bag pattern, photo showing handle looped through top of bag,
First lace it through the openings of your bag, THEN attach the two ends neatly.  

Here are some more links in case you want to use the same idea to make a rounded I-cord.

Easiest I-cord : In case the above video for a really easy I-cord does not come on, go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI


PART 3 : Further finishing ideas
How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your bag at

How to attach a zipper : 

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