Thursday, 14 August 2014

MOROCCAN TILE TOTE



free crochet bag pattern

MOROCCAN TILE TOTE


Taking the idea from the absolutely superb pattern by Tamara Kelly of Moogly (Moroccon Market Tote from Moogly Blog  http://www.mooglyblog.com/moroccan-market-tote/ ), I’ve altered the stitch, but using the same basic design have made this bag.  

While I have only used two colours, I would say (especially if using as a market bag), then this is a great stash buster and you can use as many coloured yarns as you'd like.  For strength though, I'd suggest you use a similar weight of yarn throughout this project.

The original pattern uses the dc in the “V” st, but here I’ve changed that stitch to the e-sc – so the end result is the same, but just cuter smaller stitches – and a ‘chain-like / flower-petal-like (?)’ effect that follows due to this stitch. J

I’d like to thank Tamara who has kindly allowed me to use her idea for this pattern. J


Materials used  : 4-ply fingering yarn with a 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook.  
For Indians : You could use  our polyester purse yarn, Anchor knitting cotton, Red rose knitting cotton, White rose knitting cotton, or the wide range of Alize knitting cottons with a 4 mm crochet hook as well.
For Non-Indians : I'd say that the lovely "I-love-this-cotton" from Hobby Lobby would be a wonderful yarn, as would Lily Sugar n cream knitting cottons, and of course the wide range of 4-ply yarns from RHSS, Stylecraft and Woolcraft acrylics would work too, with a 4mm hook

Size : W : 14.5” x H :  16” and length of handle : ~12.5”

Gauge :  1 ‘V’-st across x 1 diamond high = 1”
Gauge is not important for this pattern as you can make it any size.  Given just so you can get an idea of yarn usage.



Abbreviations :
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                              hk : hook
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                                 yo: Yarn Over
sl-st : Slip Stitch                                                              fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
MC : Main Colour                                                          CC : Contrast Colour
Dc : Double Crochet                                                    e-sc : Extended single crochet
‘V’-st : ‘V’ stitch                                                           


Stitches used :

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video. http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/

Foundation Double crochet : A really lovely way to start a foundation row of stitches, directly as a double crochet, without the chains.  This unique way of starting your project actually makes it evener gives your whole project an evenness that needs to be seen to be agreed with.  If you are familiar with the foundation single crochet, then you’ll surely wonder why you didn’t use this one before J
Do visit this link, and learn this fascinating, easy way to start.
http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-double-crochet-fdc/

How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/

OR


Crab stitch / Reverse single crochet : (Reverse sc) : This is your regular single crochet st, but done in reverse.  So instead of moving ‘clockwise’ as we regularly work, you move anti-clockwise or counter clockwise, and you’ll achieve a slightly ‘bumpy’ single crochet, which is your reverse sc. 

e-sc  : Extended Single Crochet: hk into st, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through one lp, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through both lps.  One e-sc made. (An e-sc is basically an sc on an sc)

How to work an e-sc

How to work an e-sc

How to work an e-sc

How to work an e-sc


PART 1 : Bag Instructions :
We are working here with only 2 colours, and the colour that you wish to have the ‘diamonds’ in will be your CC (off-white in my case), and I’m using my black as my MC.  I am also using the chainless dc start through pattern, so all start will be direct dc (i.e not the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start).

Though the pattern follows the original pattern (by Moogly), I am writing it out again for you.  You can make this bag for any size.  Here's what I suggest.  Start with the numbers given below, and if the size does not work for you,  (after Row 3) then you can re-start with any number in multiples of 3.  However, sadly, that will involve a little rip rip frogging.

We start with fdc or foundation double crochet (Check the top of this blog for a "How to").  If you do not like this start, start with 54 + 2 chain and then work your 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hook.  I would urge you to try the fdc though.

Row 1 : With MC (black), fdc 54 (or multiples of 3).  Turn. (54 fdc)

Row 2 : dc in each fdc till end.  Turn.  (54 fdc) 

In the following row, we will work till the end of the row, then  turn at the end, work a few stitches in the corner stitch and then continue on to work along the stitches at the bottom of the row and all the way back to the 1st st. 

Row  3 : dc in each fdc till end.  Turning your work 90°, 6 dc along the side (or end of row) ; turning again 90°, 54 dc across the bottom of Row 1 ; and a final turn of 90° and 6 dc along the other side (or other end of row) till you reach your 1st st.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st (120 fdc)

Note : Check that you have a multiple of 3 sts.  We will work in rounds from here on.  

Round 4 : (With CC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st dc, *sk 2 dc, ‘V’-st in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till last st.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (40 ‘V’-sts)

Round 5 : (With MC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st ‘V’-st and in each ‘V’-st till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
(40 ‘V’-sts) 

In the following round, we will work our "V"-st in the space between 2 "V"-sts
Round 6 : (With CC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st sp between 2 ‘V’-sts and in each sp between 2 ‘V’-sts till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (40 ‘V’-sts)

Round 7 : (With MC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st ‘V’-st and in each ‘V’-st till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
(40 ‘V’-sts)

You will notice that your lovely diamonds have started, and you’re set to go. 

Rep Rounds 6 & 7 till you are at a height you are happy with, ending with a MC Round 7 row.  
I’ve stopped after 20.5 diamonds on a MC (Black yarn) row, with a height of ~ > 13”.

Before you end your bag, check the instructions for the handle.


PART 2 : Handle
This part has been really well explained in the original pattern too, so please check that link for the handle given there.

I’ve improvised a different handle, so my instructions here will differ. 

Place your bag flat and look at your ‘join’ line.  You will see that it ‘moves’ one stitch (to the right) with every round).  So keeping this side facing you, mark the two corners of your bag now, which will serve as the corner points for your handle.

Fasten off CC.  Weave in ends.

PART 1 :
So here I plan on making a flat handle and looping this through the top of the bag.
In this first part, let's prepare the top part of the bag  and make four holes along the edge, and then in the second part we will make our strap-like handle.


Round 1 : (With MC) : sc in the 1st st (same st as the join), 1 sc in each dc (of the ‘V’-st) and each ch-1 sp till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 sc)

Rounds 2 - 4 : (With MC) : sc in the 1st sc and each sc till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 sc)

Now lets mark four points in the each corner.
a)      Point 1 : Count 10 sc from one side of your original side marker, and place a new marker that we’ll call Point 1.
b)      Point 2 : Count 20 sc from this point (i.e Point 1) in such a way that there are 10 sc on either side of your original side marker. (Remove original side marker)
c)       Point 3 : Count 10 sc from the other side of your original side marker, and place a new marker that we’ll call Point 3.
d)      Point 4 : Count 20 sc from this point (i.e Point 3) in such a way that there are 10 sc on either side of your original side marker. (Remove original side marker)

You now have the four points where we will skip a st to make a ‘hole’ for passing your handle.
Chart and photo below to show you how the ‘holes’ are needed and how we’re going to ‘lace’our handle through it J



Round 5 : (With MC) : dc in 1st sc and in each sc till the Point 1 marker ; 
*ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next dc , dc in each dc till next Point marker* ; 
rep from *to* till end.   Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 dc)

Round 6 :  (With MC) : sc in the 1st dc and each dc and ch-1 sp till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
(120 sc)

Last round : (With MC) : Crab st in the 1st sc and each sc till end.  
(Please check the top of this blog for a "how to" for crab stitch/ reverse sc)
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

PART 2 :
Here we’ll make a strap-like handle.  

Row 1 : Fdc 180 (or the length you wish for your handle.  I’ve got a ch length of ~ 46”).  
Turn. (180 dc)

Row 2 : dc in each dc till end .  Turn. (180 dc)

Row 3 : Rep Row 2

Last Row : (Fold your strap in half, and we will now sc  together from this row into the 1st row of fdc to complete our strap), sc in each fdc till end .  Fasten off.  Weave in ends.  DO NOT ATTACH together.  First lace it through the openings of your bag, THEN attach the two ends neatly.



DO NOT ATTACH 






First lace it through the openings of your bag, THEN attach the two ends neatly.  

Here are some more links in case you want to use the same idea to make a rounded I-cord.

How to make a rounded cord for the handle : View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag.  http://vimeo.com/88972371

How to make an I-cord : A neat way to make an I-cord in this video by June at http://www.planetjune.com/blog/how-to-crochet-an-i-cord/  



PART 3 : Further finishing ideas
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.


Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few similar creations already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go