Friday, 15 August 2014

SPOTTED AT SPOTLIGHT



free crochet top patternfree crochet top pattern

SPOTTED AT SPOTLIGHT


Last year, during my visit to Brisbane, Australia, my sister and I visited the Spotlight store, and as I was feasting my eyes and tightly holding on to my purse to prevent over indulgence L......
(and believe me, its soooooooooo easy to over spend in that store..  It has everything a crafter would want J !!) .. Anyway, I saw a lady wearing this vest in yellow. The colour and the unusual shape of this vest caught my attention.  I don’t have a ‘smart phone’ and did not have a handy camera – so ran to my sister to ask her if I could steal hers to steal a pic – and she urged me to ‘think about what I was doing’ and how it was ‘wrong’ to take a photo in a public place blah blah.. booooring.. but oh, so right L

Next best solution.. request for a picture.. what else?? Right?? But my sister was shocked.. “what ?? you’re going to ask her to model it for you??” .. ‘why not?? After all, she’ll either say ‘yes’ or ‘no’.. right?? So I do have a 50-50 chance’ J

Trotted up to the lovely lady and of course she was thrilled I liked the creation she had on.. was probably shocked at the request (?) but smilingly obliged !! Success?? Yaay!! Came home and found that the darned thing had not registered.. so all I had was the memory .. and then yesterday I chanced on this image on the www.. and hey.. last years' madness came flooding back. J

This is not my pattern .. and I take no credit for it.

Now there was only a chart and some photos .. the chart is self explanatory.. but as usual, as I am making this, thought I’d jot down my notes and chop the chart to sizable bits for easy understanding J
Hope you enjoy this one too.. as much as I’m excited in making and writing it up. J 
The chart and many of the photos are what I found on the net.. I've cut and enlarged sections, just for better understanding. 

Materials used : 1.5 balls of 4-ply baby yarn from Stylecraft , Shade 1233 Baby Lemon, Dye 65684 ;  4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook
For Indians : This yarn is a lot like our Oswal 3 - 4 ply yarn.  You can work this pattern with our lovely Anchor knitting cotton, White rose knitting cotton or the superb range from Alize.
For Non - Indians : The International yarns that I have used among cottons that would work for this pattern (in my mind) are DMC Petra, Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia) and Milford Soft knitting cotton.

Size : 34" bust
Gauge : 2 'V'-st (high) x 1 'V'-st + ch 3 = 1"
Gauge is not important for the pattern.  I've given it here so you can figure out yarn requirement.

Stiches used :
Magic Circle : To refresh your skill, pl view this easy video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video. http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 start.  However, all instructions will be given as 2 dc, assuming that you are using the chainless dc start. 

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Crab stitch / Reverse single crochet : (Reverse sc) : This is your regular single crochet st, but done in reverse.  So instead of moving ‘clockwise’ as we regularly work, you move anti-clockwise or counter clockwise, and you’ll achieve a slightly ‘bumpy’ single crochet, which is your reverse sc. 


Abbreviations used :  (U.S terminology used)
sc : Single crochet                                                           dc : Double crochet
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                                ch : chain
‘V’-st : V stitch                                                                  sp : Space
St: Stitch                                                                             hdc : Half double crochet


Pattern Instructions : (U.S terminology used)
The pattern is worked in two halves, one each for right and left hand side, we then ‘grow’ it upwards to the shoulder and attach the two halves to complete our vest.  

There are a few different types of stitches that we will use, so I will list them all here once and for all.

Using this pattern, I have made the top for a Size 34" bust.  So how does this pattern become sized for anyone?  Sadly, with this particular pattern, I have not been able to properly nail that bit.  It will be a bit of a touch-n-go situation, where you will try to work this with a thicker yarn and larger hook for a larger size, and smaller hook for a smaller size - but unfortunately, I can only say you would have to *try* and see if that works.  

Sometime, someday, I am going to re-try this pattern with a different yarn - and at that time we can add to these notes.  Meanwhile, IF you do work it with a different yarn and it works out, do let me know, so we can add in your yarn and hook for someone else to work along with.  Cheers.


‘V’-stitch : ‘V’-st : (dc, ch , dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Small shell stitch : (dc, ch 2, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Medium shell stitch : 6 dc in same st or ch-sp

Large shell stitch : 7 dc in same st or ch-sp





 Round 1 : So I started with a magic  circle, and 6 sc in that circle. 
Pull  together loosely and join with sl-st to  the 1st st. (6 sc)

 Round 2 : 2 sc in 1st sc and in each sc  till end. Join with sl-st to the 1st st. (12  sc)

 Round 3 : dc in 1st sc ; *ch 5, sk next  sc, dc in next sc* ; 
rep from *to* 4  times ; 
ch 5, join with sl-st to the 1st st.  (6 dc, six ch-5 sps)

 Round 4 : sl-st into 1st ch ; dc in the  same ch, dc in the next ch ; 
‘V’-st in  the next ch (i.e 3rd ch), dc in the next  2 ch, sk next dc ; 
*dc in the next 2 ch,  ‘V’-st in the next ch , dc in the next 2  ch, sk next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4  times till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st   st.

Round 5 : dc in 1st dc , 
*ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next ch (of ‘V’-st) , ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc* ; 
rep from *to* 4 times ; 
ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next ch (of ‘V’-st) , sk next 2 dc, dc in last dc. 
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.




Note : This is the photo from the net (part of the finished vest).  
However I think what has been made here appears to differ from the chart.  
IF per chart, you do the dc row for Round 5, this is what I made.. 
(I think above the designer has done either an hdc or sc in last st, instead of dc)

free crochet top pattern


It’s just a minor difference, but I am working with the chart… so let’s carry on J

Round 6 : dc in 1st ch (of 1st ch-5) , ch 5, sk next 3 ch ; dc in next ch, sk dc, dc in next ch ; 
*ch 5, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch ; sk next 2 dc, dc in next ch ; 
ch 5, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch ; sk next dc, dc in next ch* ; 
rep from *to* 5 times ; 
ch 5, dc in last dc.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : 7 dc in each ch-5 sp (sk all 2 dc’s) all round till end.  
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
(Diameter of work now = 5.25” )

Round 8 : sc in the 1st 4 dc (i.e you’re now in the 4th dc of this “7 dc block”) , 
*17 ch , sl-st into same dc ; sc in next 7 dc* ; 
rep from *to* 10 times till end ; 
sc in last 3 dc. Join with sl-st to the 1st st. 
(you should now have 12 ‘spokes’ of ch-17 each to your wheel) J

Note : The chart shows that we’re skipping the centre dc when making ch-17. 
However, I found that the gap here did not coincide with the finished vest, so have chosen to do my ch-17 from the 4th dc (which is the centre of each 7-dc block)

Round 9 : sc in the 1st 3 sc ( sk 1 sc before the ch-17) , 
(we will now work along each ch-17 and then come back down to the main motif)
*1 sc , 1 hdc , 23 dc , 1 hdc and finally 1 sc (all in the ch-17); 
(and now working along the main motif)
sc in the next 8 sc (till you reach the ch-17) , sk 1 sc, sc in next  sc, sk last sc*  ; 
rep from *to* all around till the end of last ch-17, sk 1 sc, then sc in last 3 sts.  
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
(Just in case you want to do the 27 sts neatly within the ch-12, the break up is as follows : sc in 1st ch ; hdc in next ch ; dc in next 2 ch ; 2 dc each in next 4 ch ; 3 dc in next dc ; 2 dc each in next 4 ch ; dc in next 2 ch ; hdc in next ch ; and sc in last ch.  This gives you a firmer, neater finish, but is a little more work)



Round 10 : sl-st in 1st 3 sc (on main motif), sl-st in 1st 6 sts 
(so the sc, hdc and then 4 dc) ; ch 9 (counts as 1 trc + 5 ch) ; 
sk 4 dc , sc in next dc ; ch 5, sk 4 dc, sc in next dc ; ch 5, sk 4 sts, trc in next st ; 
*trc in 4th dc from end (which is the 6th st on next ch-17 ‘spoke’) , ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in next sc ; 
ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in next dc ; ch 5, sk 4 sts, trc in next st* ; 
rep from* to * all the way around to the 1st st. 
Join with sl-st to the 1st trc (which is part of that 4th ch on the 1st 9-ch you’ve made).



 Take a quick look at the  chart.  Note that we will be  leaving one full ‘spoke’ and two  halves of the adjoining ones without  working on them.

  Round 11 : Sl-st in all the chs of the 1st 5-ch (till  you reach that 1st sc on the 1st   ‘spoke’) ;
 dc in 1st sc ; ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in 3rd ch  ; 
[ch 3, Small shell st (i.e dc, ch 2, dc)  in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp] ;
 *ch 3, dc in trc, ch 2, dc in next trc ;  rep from[to] 3 times* ; 
rep from *to* 8 times ;
 ch 3, dc in trc, ch 2, dc in next trc ;  
rep from[to] once ; ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc  in next ch ; 
ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in next  sc. Turn



Row 12 : {ch 3, sc in next ch- sp, } ; rep {to} 7 times 
(ensure that you are in the 3rd small shell from end)
[ch 3, small shell in next small shell] , rep [to] once ; ch 3,
dc in dc, ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
*rep [to] 3 times, ch 3, dc in dc, ch 2, dc in next dc * ; 
rep *to* 7 times ;
rep [to] once ; ch 3, small shell on next dc ; dc in last dc.  Turn

Row 13 : dc in 1st dc, [shell in next shell, ch 3] ; 
rep from [to] once ; (dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 3, rep from [to] 3 times,  rep from (to) once*; 
rep *to* 7 times ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] 2 times, dc in last dc (2nd dc on ‘V’-st).  Turn

Row 14 : dc in 1st dc ; [small shell in next small shell, ch 3] ;
rep [to] once ; (dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc) ; 
*ch 3, rep from [to] 3 times,  rep from (to) once*; 
rep *to* 7 times ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] 2 times, dc in last dc (of ‘V’-st).  Turn

Row 15 : dc in 1st dc , medium shell in each ch-2 sp all around (sk all ch-3 sps) ; dc in last dc.  Turn


Per chart above, once again looks like designer has made a small change in the right hand side (grey portion), which is not charted.  I've written pattern per chart, so I've not done that little extra bit, and it still worked   

Row 16 : dc in 1st dc ; sk 1 dc, small shell in next dc, sk 2 dc, ch 3 ; 
*sk 4 dc, small shell in next dc, ch 3* ; 
rep *to* till end ; dc in last dc (of ‘V’-st).  Turn

Row 17 : dc in 1st dc, *small shell in next small shell, ch 3* ; 
rep from *to* till last dc ; dc in last dc. Turn

Row 18 : Rep Row 14.

Row 19 : dc in 1st dc, *large shell in next small shell, ch 3* ; 
rep from *to* till the last 8 small shells ; ch 1, dc in the next small shell ; 
ch 1, small shell in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(We will continue to make the shoulder strap) ; 
(ch 2, sc in the next ch-sp) ; rep from (to) 5 times ; 
ch 2, [small shell in each small shell, ch 3] ; 
rep from [to] 3 times, till end (4 small shells), dc in last dc  . Turn.
(The 4 small shells will make your shoulder strap)

Row 20 : Shoulder : dc in 1st dc ; *small shell in small shell, ch 3* ; 
rep from *to* 3 times ; dc in next dc (dc of the ‘V’ st of earlier row. Turn.

Rep Row 20 Shoulder 8 more time (total of 10 rows for shoulder).  Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

We will start on the Right Hand Side of our vest, and after completing the shoulder for this side, attach the two vest halves, and complete it as one piece.

Rep Rounds 1 – 9 as for Left Hand Side



Round 10 : Turn. sl-st in 1st 3 sc (on main motif), sl-st in 1st 6 sts (so the sc, hdc and then 4 dc) ; 
ch 9 (counts as 1 trc + 5 ch) ; sk 4 dc , sc in next dc ; 
ch 5, sk 4 dc, sc in next dc ; ch 5, sk 4 sts, trc in next st ; 
*trc in 4th dc from end (which is the 6th st on next ch-17 ‘spoke’) ; 
ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in next sc ; ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in next dc ; ch 5, sk 4 sts, trc in next st* ; 
rep from* to * all the way around to the 1st st. 
Join with sl-st to the 1st trc (which is part of that 4th ch on the 1st 9-ch you’ve made).

Cut yarn.  Leave a tail for joining and fasten off.
Take a quick look at the chart, and see that we are now making the mirror image of the side we’ve done first.  
So keeping that finished side facing upwards, you’ll get an idea of what we’ve got to make . 
Re-attach yarn at the opposite end and continue. 


Round 11 :
Sl-st in all the 1st 5 chs of the 1st 5-ch (till you reach that 1st sc on the 1st ‘spoke’) ;
dc in 1st sc ; ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in 3rd ch ; 
[ch 3, Small shell st (i.e dc, ch 2, dc) in 3rd ch of next ch-5 sp] ;
*ch 3, dc in trc, ch 2, dc in next trc ; rep from[to] 3 times* ; 
rep from *to* 8 times ;
ch 3, dc in trc, ch 2, dc in next trc ; rep from[to] once ; 
ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch ; ch 3, sk 4 ch + 1 sc, dc in next sc.

Row 12 : {ch 3, sc in ch-sp, } ; rep {to} 7 times 
(ensure that you are just before the 3rd small shell from end)
[ch 3, small shell in next small shell] , rep [to] once ; ch 3,
dc in dc, ch 2, dc in next dc ; 
*rep [to] 3 times, ch 3, dc in dc, ch 2, dc in next dc * ; 
rep *to* 7 times ;
rep [to] once ; ch 3, small shell on next dc ; dc in last dc.  Turn

Row 13 : dc in 1st dc, [shell in next shell, ch 3] ; 
rep from [to] once ; (dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc) ;
*ch 3, rep from [to] 3 times,  rep from (to) once*; 
rep *to* 7 times ; ch 3, rep from [to] 2 times, dc in last dc (i.e 2nd dc on ‘V’-st).  Turn

Row 14 : dc in 1st dc ; [small shell in next small shell, ch 3] ; rep [to] once ; 
(dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc) ; 
*ch 3, rep from [to] 3 times,  rep from (to) once*; 
rep *to* 7 times ; ch 3, rep from [to] 2 times, dc in last dc (of ‘V’-st).  Turn

Row 15 : dc in 1st dc , medium shell in each ch-2 sp all around (sk all ch-3 sps) ; 
dc in last dc.  Turn

Row 16 : dc in 1st dc ; sk 1 dc, small shell in next dc, ch 3 ; 
*sk 4 dc, small shell in next dc, ch 3* ;
rep *to* till end ; dc in last dc (of ‘V’-st).  Turn

Row 17 : dc in 1st dc, *small shell in next small shell, ch 3* ; 
rep from *to* till last dc ; dc in last dc. Turn

Row 18 : Rep Row 14.

Row 19 : dc in 1st dc, *large shell in next small shell, ch 3* ; 
rep from *to* till the last 8 small shells ; 
ch 1, dc in the next small shell ; ch 1, small shell in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(We will continue to make the shoulder strap) ; 
(ch 2, sc in the next ch-sp) ; rep from (to) 5 times ; 
ch 2, [small shell in each small shell, ch 3] ; 
rep from [to] 3 times, till end (4 small shells), dc in last dc  . Turn.
(The 4 small shells will make your shoulder strap)

Row 20 : Shoulder : dc in 1st dc ; 
*small shell in small shell, ch 3* ; 
rep from *to* 3 times ; dc in next dc (dc of the ‘V’ st of earlier row. Turn.

Rep Row 20 Shoulder 8 more time (total of 10 rows for shoulder).  
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.  
Leave a tail for attaching the two shoulder blades of your vest together.

First join : We will be joining the centre portions of the vest now.. so place your work down with both front sides facing up, and join together.

Close up of section we've completed so far


View of both halves joined


As you can see, the photo here shows joint after completion, but I joined a few lines before think I got a neater finish – so choose your option J

Once you’ve joined the two halves, we complete the border in one piece.

Border :


Re-attach yarn in the 1st small shell (this is the top row where you’ve got the ch-2 sps followed by the small shell).

Row 1 : Ch 7, sc in the 4th dc of 1st large shell (sk 1st 3 dc) ; 
17 ch, sl-st into same 4th dc ; 
*5 ch, sc in the 4th dc of the next large shell (sk 1st 3 dc) ; 17 ch, sl-st into the same 4th dc* ; 
rep from *to* till last large shell ; 
ch 5, sc in the next small shell.  Turn.

Row 2 : sc in 1st st ; ch 5, 
*1 sc , 1 hdc , 23 dc , 1 hdc and finally 1 sc (all in the ch-17) , ch 2, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 2*; 
rep from *to* till end , ch 5, sc in last sc.
(Just in case you want to do the 27 sts neatly within the ch-12, the break up is as follows : sc in 1st ch ; hdc in next ch ; dc in next 2 ch ; 2 dc each in next 4 ch ; 3 dc in next dc ; 2 dc each in next 4 ch ; dc in next 2 ch ; hdc in next ch ; and sc in last ch.  This gives you a firmer, neater finish, but is a little more work)

Row 2 A : Re-attach a yarn at the 1st spoke at the other end, and rep these 3 spokes at that end too.  
Fasten off and weave in ends. 
Now we’ll continue with the opposite end, and complete border in one single row.

Row 3 : sc in 1st st , ch 5, sc in 6th st of 1st spoke , ch 17, sc in the same st ; 
(sc in next 6 sts ; ch 17, sc in same st) ; rep from (to) once ; Turn, we will go back and complete the three spokes just made (i.e ch 17’s) ; ch 2 , sc in last sc.

Row 4 : (ch 1, sk 1 dc on spoke, dc in next dc on spoke) ; rep from (to) 4 times ;
[sk 1 st, ‘V’-st in next st, ch 1] ; 
rep from [to] twice ; ch 1, sk next dc on spoke, dc on next dc on spoke ;
(we will now attach the 1st and 2nd spokes, and then work on 2nd spoke)
{dc in the 8th dc on the 2nd spoke , rep from (to) once ; 
rep from [to] 3 times ; rep from (to) once ; 
ch 1, sk next dc on spoke, dc on next dc on spoke} ;
(we will now attach the 2nd and 3rd  spokes, and then work on 3rd spoke)
Rep from {to} once ;
(we will now move across to the other spokes all the way around)
*dc in 8th dc of the next spoke ; rep from (to) 6 times* ; 
rep from *to* all the way around till the last spoke from end 
(to copy/mimic the start spoke – remember the ‘V’ sts too).  
Fasten off.  Weave ends.

We will now make the two remaining shoulders that come just off the 3 spokes made in the first spoke. 
This bit I found worked if you keep your work facing the way it needs to be – 
so now re-attach yarn in the 2nd ‘V’-st in the spoke from the neck side.

Shoulder row :
Row 1 : 1 dc and 1 ‘V’-st in that ‘V’-st , ch 3 ; sk next ‘V’-st, ‘V’-st in next dc ; 
ch 3, ‘V’-st in next dc (on next spoke) ; ch 3, sk next ‘V’-st, ‘V’-st in next ‘V’-st ; 
dc in next dc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc, ‘V’-st in 1st ‘V’-st, ch 3 ; 
*‘V’-st in next ‘V’-st, ch 3* ; 
rep from *to* 2 times, dc in last dc.  Turn

Row 3 : Rep Row 2.

Rep these rows for the other shoulder as well. 
Note that one shoulder has the extra 3 spokes, so needs less rep rows.  Please check reps accordingly.

Free crochet top pattern


Finishing :
Join shoulder blades. 
Join 3-4 spokes on the side.  (I only joined the 2 spokes back & front in the centre bits of each spoke, not all through)
I did two rounds of sc followed by one round of crab stitch (reverse sc) all around the armholes and neckline for a neat finish.

free crochet top pattern


Weave in all ends.  Block per yarn instructions.

This has been a not-that-easy journey.. and I do hope that this all works out (i.e there aren’t too many errors here), but I’ll add that this is totally worth it J

Thanks for taking this ‘trip’ with me.  Do add my blog / Google+ to your “favourites”, so you don’t miss my next exciting adventure. Have a great day.J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too