Monday, 15 September 2014

THE CUTE HAT 'N BAG FOR THE PEACHILICIOUSLY DIVINE DRESS

free crochet cap pattern, free crochet bag pattern

THE CUTE HAT 'N BAG FOR THE PEACHILICIOUSLY DIVINE DRESS


The dress for this set is up on an earlier blogpost (titled Peachilicious! A divine dress at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/peachilicious-divine-dress.html ).  
This is the pattern for the cute little hat and bag that were part of the set accompanying the dress.  J

Link to pattern : http://www.liveinternet.Campana.mam (I think)

Materials used : Baby wool from Woolcraft ~ 100 gms (about 1 skeins) with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook
Now though I’ve made the whole set with the yarn I had in hand, I’d suggest a slightly thinner yarn for this project.  Though this yarn says ‘baby wool’, it feels like a 4-ply yarn.

For Indians : A 3-ply, light fingering or a knitting cotton yarn would work well.  I think we would need about 1.5 balls of knitting cotton / maybe a 75 gms of light fingering yarn.

Size made : Head circumference : 17”
Gauge : (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = 0.8” across x 0.5” high

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainelss dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to line a bag : Do visit this self explanatory link : http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                                     sl-st : Slip stitch
st : Stitch                                                                      sk : Skip
lp : loop                                                                        hk : hook


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

There are two charts for this pattern, and both  are given here. I’ve chosen the hand-written chart (first chart), as it suited my requirements… and then tweaked it some.


free crochet cap pattern

Round 1 : Start with a  magic circle and 12 dc in that circle.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 : Increase round : 2 dc in each dc all around.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Round 3 : 2 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc ; 2 dc in next dc ; 
*2 dc in next dc; ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* all around.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Round 4 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 1, 2 dc in next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* all around.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Round 5 : (sl-st till the 1st ch-1 sp) ; 2 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in same 1st ch-1 sp ; 
*ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp* ; 
rep from *to* all around ; ch 1.   Join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Round 6 : dc in 1st ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp , rep from (to) once ; ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp* ; 
rep from *to* all around ; ch 1.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Round 7 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp, and dc in same ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ; 
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp , rep from (to) once ; ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ; 
ch 1, sk dc , dc in next ch-1 sp* ; 
rep from *to* all around ; ch 1, dc in last ch-1 sp ; ch 1 , join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp, and dc in same ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ; 
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp , rep from (to) once ; ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ;
[ch 1, sk dc , dc in next ch-1 sp] ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* all around ; ch 1, dc in last ch-1 sp ; rep [to] once ; ch 1 , join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 

Now take a quick look at what we’re doing with this pattern so far.  We’re slowly building a diamond shape which is coming within [the dc, ch-1, sk dc] area, and the (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) is going to be the outside of the diamonds.

So continue ‘increasing’ the diamond shapes as per the chart, till you have a diamond shape with 7 dc’s (in the square bracketed area).. and we’ll catch up with this pattern again then. J

There’s also a minor calculation you need to do right now.. as the number of lines you repeat, depend on the yarn you’re using.  As we’re using differing yarns etc, see how far you need to ‘increase’ – so for this, a rough check is that the circle you’re making should roughly go around the crown of the head .. at when it does, stop increases !! Phew!! J

Now to explain what we’re attempting to do for the decrease section.  You have the diamond formed with the “V” stitches (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) and then the lacy section in between (dc, ch 1).  Now as we ‘close up’ the diamond, we’re going to have one section of the lacy bits in between the diamonds, and one section outside as well.

Now as you and I will have made different calculations for the increase, it’s going to be a little difficult to explain just how many stitches to decrease.. but I’m going to give you a general idea.

Next round : Decrease round : sl-st into 1st ch-1 sp (between the 2 dc “V”) ; 
sk next ch-1 sp and dc ; 
*(ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp) ; 
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp , rep from (to) till you’re 1 dc before the next “V” st, then sk that dc and the ch-sp after that and rep (to); ch 2* ;  
rep from *to* all around ; 
ch 1, dc in last ch-1 sp ; rep [to] once ; ch 1 , join with sl-st to the 1st dc. 
So we’re trying to reduce the “V” diamond, but increasing the lacy spaces in between, so we’ve added a ch 2

In the Next round , you will start as we did in our first increase round, by adding a dc in this new ch 2 sp.  One side we’re doing the decreases as in the explanation above, and for the lacy spaces in between, you are going to use instructions from Round 2 – 8.

OK so now once you’re happy with the decreases, (which you stop once your project goes easily onto the forehead of the person you’re making this hat for), we will start on the decorative brim.

Brim of hat :
Round 1 : Sk 1st dc, 2 dc in 1st ch sp ; 
*sk next dc, 2 dc in next ch-sp* ; 
rep from *to* all around.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sc in the 1st dc and each dc till end.

Rounds 3 & 4 : sc in the 1st sc and each sc till end.

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.





MATCHING BAG FOR THE PEACHILICOUS SET


free crochet bag pattern

This is my only project thus far, where I am attaching a wip (work in progress) photo.  
I am not happy with the way my project has turned out with this yarn, so need to get a different (thinner) yarn – but trying to match these colours may be … well, as it may not happen real quick.. I thought I’d share the pattern off and then see what I can do with my bag.

I also am a little lost as to what the designer wants done after Round 13. There are these long ch-15’s attached to the top of the (1st) row and then a rep of Rounds 10-13, I think it’s meant as a flap, but as it’s going straight down (and will form a rectangle), methinks it will overlap the front semicircular part.  I am not working that bit in for my project today.

From what I see on this first bit of the chart, it (also) looks like the designer has only made one side to this cuteness .. and the back of the bag is just cloth – so more decisions for you.  You could do just like the designer has – else, you go till Round 13 for back, and then work a 2nd piece for front.

Let’s now try and make that cute matching bag to complete this set. 

Stitches used :

Small shell : (2 dc , ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same ch-sp or st.
Medium shell : (3 dc , ch 4, 3 dc) all in the same ch-sp or st.
Large shell : (3 dc , picot ; 2 dc , picot ; 2 dc , picot ; 3 dc) all in the same ch-sp or st ; which means this is a set of 10 dc with 3 picots.
Picot : ch 3, sl-st into the 1st st.  This is a decorative st and is usually done on top of a row of sts.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR BAG (Using U.S terminology)

FULL CHART including that ch-15 section that has got me flummoxed J
Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and 36 sc.

Round 2 : sc in 1st 7 sc ; dc in next sc ; sk 2 sc, dc in next sc ; 
*ch 2, dc in same last sc ; sk 2 sc, dc in next sc* ; 
rep *to* 8 times (so a total of 10 “V” made).

Now it looks like the designer has done a really different way of making a ‘flat top’. OK.. so you’re at the ‘top’ of your last “V” st. ch 1, and then do 2 sc into the horizontal bar of your last dc, and then continue down to the next 7 ‘untouched’ sc (from your 1st magic circle round), and then continue ‘up’ the 1st dc you’ve mad and do 2 sc on that horizontal bar.. Take a quick look at the chart below and you’ll surely understand what I am saying here.. confusing as it sounds.

Done?  Good.. so we now have 11 sc. 



Round 3 : Now on this round, you’ll see that once again we’re going to try and extend the flat top and then carry on with the round below..

So ch 2, small shell in the 1st ch-2 sp ; small shell in each ch-2 sp till end (total of 9 small shells) ; 
hdc into the 1st sc ; 
ch 1 (turning chain) , 2 sc on the horizontal bar of the hdc, continue on and sc in each of the next 11 sc ; sc in the last 2 ch (total of 15 sc).



Round 4ch 2, medium shell in 1st small shell ; 
medium shell in each small shell to end ; hdc in sc ; ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; 
sc in the next 15 sc ; sc in the last 2 ch. (total of 19 sc)



Round 5ch 2, large shell in ch-4 sp of 1st medium shell ; 
*large shell in ch-4 sp of next medium shell* ; 
rep *to* till last medium shell ; hdc in sc ; 
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2 ch.


Round 6ch 8, sk 1st picot, sc in 2nd picot ; 
*ch 8, sk next 2 picot, sc in next picot (middle picot of next large shell)* ; rep *to
* till last large shell ; ch 6, hdc in sc ; ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; 
sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8 made).



Round 7 ch 8, sk 1st ch-sp ; 10 dc in 1st ch-8 sp and each ch-8 sp till end (sk last ch-6 sp) ; 
ch 6, hdc in sc ; ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; 
sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8 made).



Round 8 ch 8, sk 1st ch-sp ; 10 dc in each dc till end (sk last ch-6 sp) ; 
ch 6, hdc in sc ; ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; 
sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8 made).



Note : In this round, the designer has gone in the ‘space’ between 2 dc, and not in the next dc.

Round 9 ch 10, sk 1st ch-sp, sk 1st 5 dc ; 
(dc , ch 2, dc) in the sp between this and the next dc ; 
*ch 4, sk next 5 dc , rep (to) once* ; 
rep from  *to* till last ch-sp ; ch 8 , sk last 5 dc, hdc in sc ; 
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8 made).



Round 10 ch 6, sk 1st ch-sp ; small dc in the next ch-2 sp (between 2 dc’s)  ; 
*ch 2, sc in next 
ch-4 sp , rep small shell once* ; 
rep from  *to* till last ch-sp ; ch 6 , hdc in sc ; 
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8 made).



Round 11 ch 4, sk 1st ch-sp ; medium shell in the next ch-3 sp  ; 
*ch 1, sc in next sc , rep medium shell once* ; 
rep from  *to* till last ch-sp ; ch 4 , hdc in sc ; 
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8 made).



Round 12 ch 3, sk 1st ch-sp ; (5 dc , ch 2, 5 dc) in the next ch-4 sp  ; 
*ch 1, sc in next sc , rep (to) once* ; 
rep from  *to* till last ch-sp ; ch 1 , hdc in sc ; 
ch 1, 2 sc in hdc (just made) ; sc in each sc ; sc in the last 2 ch (of the 1st ch-8 made).



Note :
Whether you’re using the pattern to make a fully crocheted bag (i.e both back and front parts crochet) or a cloth-based back, I’d suggest you join the two parts using the ends of Round 12, and the picot edging can be done only on the front side.

Round 13 ch 3, sk 1st ch-sp ; (sk 2 dc, sc in the same dc ; 
[ch 3 , sc in the next dc ; picot and sl-st in same sc] ; 
sk rep 2 dc,  [to] once in ch-sp ;  sk rep 2 dc,  [to] once ;  sk last 3 dc) ; 
*ch 1, sc in next sc , rep (to) once* ; 
rep from  *to* till last 3 dc ; 
ch 1 , sc in sc ; ch 15, sk next sc , sc in next sc ; 
{ch 15, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc} ; 
rep from {to} 12 times ; ch 15, sk next sc, sc in last sc.

Fasten off.  Weave in ends. (*) but hold on.. first read notes below  J



FINISHING : (*)
1.        Attach front and back halves (using stitches of Round 12)
2.       If you’re making this into a sling bag, make a small strap just before you fasten off from your last rows.
3.       I’d suggest a ch from the edge of about 75-100 ch, the sl-st into the corresponding point in the other end ; sc into the next st (on the bag) and then sc (hdc or dc) into each ch st till the start.  In case you decide to do a dc in each st, remember to sc into two stitches on the bag.  Rep for the other strap.
4.       Before you join up your front and back, may I suggest you line your bag for your convenience.
5.       Weave in all ends.



FLOWER :

Finally the designer has made a cute little flower to go on top of the bag.  
I choose to make the same flower as we’ve made for the dress, so not making this one – but attached here is the chart for another flower as well.  The pattern is very similar to the one we’ve done thus far – so go for it J



I do hope you’ve had as much fun making this project as I have .. making and writing it down and I do hope you’ll join me for our next adventure with my next discovery.

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Till then ciao.. and have a great day too J

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Here are some of my other bag creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too