Tuesday, 28 October 2014

A LOVELY 3 – IN - 1 SKIRT

free crochet skirt pattern


A LOVELY 3 – IN - 1 SKIRT


Odd name for a skirt ??  Well this lovely creation has three sets of patterns and it all neatly adds up to one fantastic skirt – fits ?? The name.. I mean .. J

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 

As always I have given a lot of explanation - so please go through the whole blog before you pick up your hook.

Materials used : Red Rose knitting cotton  ~ 300 gms , with a 2.50 mm crochet hook
For Indians : This pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn .. and maybe  even some 3-ply yarns or even a 4-ply (Anchor) knitting cotton yarn.  I say this just for the way you’d want it to ‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.
For Non - Indians : I'd say that any light weight yarn would work for this pattern - mainly due to the use of three different patterns in one skirt ; each of which is pretty lacy.
International yarns that I've used in the similar weight category (as the one I've used) include DMC Petra, Milford Soft, Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, and Sullivans (Australia).

Size made : Waist : 30-32” : Length : 24”
Gauge : 3 dc (across) x 1 dc row (high) = ½”
Gauge is not essential.  

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

“V”-stitch : “V”-st : (2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc) all in the same sp or st.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                             hdc : Half Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                             ch : Chain


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

With this pattern, as with my other patterns, I am going to use the lovely fdc to start.  I personally feel that the finish this foundation gives is worth all the work.  
However if you wish to start with regular chains, go ahead.  You will need to work 2 chains more than given for the start, and work in the 3rd ch from hk which will become your 1st dc.

The designer has also used a tie-cord to bring the waist together.  
This has two advantages – not only do you avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you also have a lot more flair for your skirt.  
In case you decide you want to do it this way (rather than fitted), then use the round waist / round hips measurement (whichever is more).  

For a tie cord waist :  
a) You will use the hip/waist measure and a little more than that, keeping the stitch count in mind. 
b) You will need a line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass your tie cord.
c)  I’d suggest you do a (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all around.  
d) You can then loop your tie cord neatly on completion.

For a fitted waist :  
a) This works best if the difference between hip and waist is not too much.  
b) You will still start with the round hip measurement, keeping the stitch count in mind.
c) For the first few rows you will work back and forth in rows and you will have a small opening around the back (or side, if you so decide)
d) After the first few rows, you will join up and work in rounds
e) The first few rows could be  (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) till end.  
f) Once you have the slight opening done, please join up and work the pattern in rounds.

This pattern has three parts – so I suggest you look at the whole pattern and decide how long / wide you want each section – or just divide it up equally into thirds – one third for each pattern.  So first decide on the full length you want for your skirt, and then divide that into thirds.… and off we go J

For the pattern, we’re all going to work in rounds.  Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 1.



PATTERN 1

Start with a  multiple of 3 + 1 fdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st fdc.

Round 1 : sc in 1st fdc ; ch 8, sk next 2 fdc, sc in next fdc ; 
*ch 8, sk next 2 fdc, sc in next fdc* ; 
rep *to* till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 2 : sk 1st sc , 8 sc in the 1st ch-8 sp ; 
*sk next sc, 8 sc in next ch-8 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.


Round 3 : sl-st in 1st 3 sc , sc in the next sc ; ch 8, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc ; 
*ch 8, sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 4 : sk 1st sc , 8 sc in the 1st ch-8 sp ; 
*sk next sc, 8 sc in next ch-8 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Rep Rounds 3 & 4 for the length you desire.






PATTERN 2
I am going to start numbering from 1 for this pattern.  Please do not confuse it with the earlier pattern numbering.

Round 1 : sl-st in the next 3 sc ; “V”-st in next sc ;  ch 2 , sk next 5 sc , dc in next 4 dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 6 sc , “V”-st in next sc ; ch 2, sk next 5 sc, dc in next 4 dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in same “V”-st ;
*(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp); “V”-st in next “V”-st* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
rep (to) once. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in same “V”-st ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , 
(dc in next dc ; dc in next ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in same “V”-st ; *ch 4, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ;
ch 4, sk next dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ; rep from *to* till end ; ch 4, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ;
ch 4, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st in ch-sp of the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in same “V”-st ;
*ch 2 , (2 dc in next ch-4 sp ; sk next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-4 sp) ;  
ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;
rep from *to* till end ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.


Your rep rounds are Rounds 2-5.  
Rep till you have this pattern for the length you desire ; ending with Round 3.



PATTERN 3

This last pattern set is the famous ‘lattice’ pattern.  
It’s a long repeat because the lovely designer has started with a lattice then moved the next lattice  - so as you’re working this pattern set out.. do try and see how this is working out.

The idea of my blog is also to help you along with chart reading, so … J

In the chart below, the first round of this pattern is Round 3 of Pattern 2, so our first round here will be the 2nd line of this pattern chart.
We’re  starting as usual with that 1st “V”-st, and for this pattern we do not use this st, so we’ll , in some parts of the following instructions, consider this as 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc for the explanations in the coming round.

A quick understanding of this first foundation round for our 3rd pattern set.
We’re going to make a (ch 3, then do 5 scs, then ch 3 and 3 dcs) all around.  To make our life (and pattern reading) a little simpler, rather than throw all these sc’s and dc’s around, I’m just going to call everything a STITCH.  However, PLEASE remember that if the ch sp is a ch-1 sp, that qualifies as ONE STITCH, and similarly our ch-2 sps, qualify as TWO stitches ; each dc will obviously qualify as ONE stitch.
Once we’ve got this 1st round done, the rest is simpler J

Round 1 : sl-st in 1st dc of the 1st “V”-st , dc in next dc , dc in next st ;
(ch 3, sk next dc, sk next ch-2 sp, sk next dc, sc in next 3 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sk next ch-1 sp, sk next dc , dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp] ;
{ch 3, sk next 4 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp , sc in next 2 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp} ;
((ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sk next ch-2 sp , dc in the next 3 dc)) ;
[(ch 3, sk next dc, sk next ch-2 sp , sk next dc, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 dc , 1 sc in next ch-2 sp)] ;
ch 3 , sk next ch (of this ch-2 sp) , sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-2 sp

Now you can see what the designer is doing.. skipping 4 sts and then doing a 3 dc set, sk next 4 sts and doing a 5 sc set, sk next 4 sts and then doing a 3 dc set again.  This is what I’ve figured from the chart below and done.
So carry on with this scalloped shape all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

I was wondering why I was unable to get a rep to give you.. now while I did finally  get one, it’s too long.. so I think we’ll stay with my rep calculation above.. and hopefully that’s going to work without a problem..

So done with this round.. and I am one stitch short.. we’ve got to sk 4 sts, and I had only 3.. so I just fudged it and have joined with a sl-st to the first 3 dc-set.
And phew.. we’ve done it !!  The rest of the rounds are going to be a breeze.. and you’re going to love it

Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc , dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*rep (to) once l rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next sc, dc in next sc) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ;
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around ; 
dc in next dc ; ch 3, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sc in the same 1st dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp] ;
* rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around, ending with a rep (to) ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sc in the 1st two sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; dc in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc) ;
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next 3 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;

* rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around ; 
sc in next sc ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sc in the 1st two sc ;
(ch 3, sk next sc , 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp) ; [ch 3, sk next sc ; sc in next 3 sc] ; 
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ; 
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 3, sk next sc , 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp) ;
[ch 3, sk next sc , dc in next sc ; ch 3, sk next sc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc] ;
 *rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ; c
h 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into 1st ch of ch-3 sp , 2 dc in same ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1, sk next dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc) ; 
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next dc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ; 
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : dc in 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next 3 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc ; dc in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next dc) ; 
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc ,
sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next 3 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;  
rep *to* all around ending with a rep (to) ; 
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 10 : dc in 1st dc ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc ; ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.



Now before you start your repeat, TURN, go into that ch-1 sp, and then TURN AGAIN and start your reps.
Our rep rounds are Rounds 3-10.  So while we do all that starts with Round 3, you must get to that ch-1 sp first, so the two turns underlined above.. you continue reps till you get the final skirt length you want .. and tada !!!  we’re done.

The designer has ended with a Round 9.. which is probably the line with the least spaces.. and the centre of one part and completion of another latticed part… but you could find any round that suits you to end too.

There is also a border, which I’ve written .. but you can see if you want to add that.. or leave it with this lovely filigree edging after Round 9 too.



BORDER  
Let’s quickly take a look at our work and what we’re going to do with the border – so we have 2 sets of sts that we’re going to have chains swinging between.  
One set consists of a 3 sc set, and the next is a (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) set.  So the centre sc and the centre of (to) which is the ch-1 will be the ones being used.  
Oh, you may also see in the chart below, that the designer has used a ch 10 between 2 sets.  I feel that an odd number of chain is better, as it’s simpler to count off – but once again, this is up to you.. 
OK, so off we go for the last 2 rounds that make our border. We also use a picot, which is a decorative stitch, and is a (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st st) all in the same st.

Border Round 1 : sc in 1st 3 sc ; 
*ch 9, sk next sc , sk next 2 dc , sc in next dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in next dc ; 
ch 9, sk next 2 dc, sc in next 3 sc* ; 
rep *to* all around till end. 
Join with a sl-st to 1st sc.

Border Round 1 : sl-st into next sc ; sc + picot in the same sc ; 
*sl-st in the next sc ; dc in next ch ;  
(dc + picot in the next ch ; dc in next ch) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; dc in last ch ; sl-st in next sc ; 
[sc + picot in next sc]* ; 
rep *to* all around till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.   Fasten off and weave in ends.



Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your divine skirt on and show off.. you deserve to J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J


You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual skirt patterns.










Thursday, 23 October 2014

GYPSY SHELLED SKIRT

free crochet skirt pattern

GYPSY SHELLED SKIRT


How can anyone go wrong with shells – several of my original designs have been inspired by this lovely pattern from nature. 
This skirt starts off with a tiny little shell, and as we proceed through the skirt, the shell grows in size.  It is , therefore, easily adaptable, with regard to length – and of course the width will be easily adaptable once you figure out the pattern repeat.  J

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. I take a lot of effort and time into explanation and providing links as applicable.  Please go through all the instructions before you start your work .. for your own convenience.  

Original pattern link probably one of these two and the photograph below is the inspiration that got me started on this lovely project.  http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/4632770/post334069685/  or http://www.stranamam.ru/post/7893485/



Materials used : ICE Baby Batik  ~ 150 gms , with a 4 mm crochet hook
About this lovely yarn : ICE Batik is a really nice yarn – soft and smooth, sport 5-ply yarn (12 wpi) , and a US 4 / 3.5mm crochet hook has been recommended. 
For Indians : This is a little thicker than our Indian Vardhaman baby soft - probably a little like our Vardhaman Millenium.  I  would probably equate it with our Indian Laura knitting cotton yarn. 
For this pattern though, a lighter yarn would also work perfectly – so our Indian Anchor, Red rose or Red heart yarns would probably show the stitch detail perfectly – and as they are lighter yarns, you’d get a lot more ‘shells’ in which also means a lot more fall n spin in your skirt – always a good thing with skirts, methinks J

Size made : Waist : 28-30” : Length : 22”
Gauge : 3 dc (across) x 1 dc row (high) = ½”
Gauge is not important.  You can make this skirt to/for any size

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            hdc : Half Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                             ch : Chain


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

This skirt starts waist down (so top down).  
The pattern sheet shows a line of chain stitches for the start.  
I am , however, going to start with a row of fdc, and for the first few rows.   

For your convenience, I have cut the chart into small sections so try to follow along.  Cheers.

Before we head off to the pattern, here are a few thoughts
a)  I am going to work in rows, so as to add a zipper at the back.   I am therefore, going to work a few rows of dc before starting the pattern

b)  You could, however, make the waist a little larger than needed (maybe just a bit smaller than needed for hips), and then after the first 2 or 3 rows, work in rounds, and then instead of a zipper, use a button to close that opening.

c)  As I do not know how each of you will be working the closure bits, I will write this generally, like we’re all working in rounds, which is why you will join with a slip stitch at the end of each row.

d)  In case you are leaving the 1st few rows for the zipper or buttons, remember that you will TURN at the end of each row.  The pattern is constant, whether you’re working in rows or rounds.

e)  This “A”-lined skirt can easily be a lot longer than the 20 odd rounds I’ve written – so in case you want a longer skirt, please repeat till you have the desired length.

My project measures W : 28-30” ; L : 18” (before border); and I have written the pattern (almost) as charted all the way till Round 29.

I said "almost"because in the chart below, there are 2 dc’s on each end of the pattern – which seems off-sync.  
The 1st row pattern has a set of 3 dc and one set of hdc,ch 3, hdc – and if we have 2 dc’s each end, we’ll have this one lot of 4 dc’s running along the back.  
So I’ve changed the pattern here – but as I always say.. if you want to go per pattern.. go for it J

f)  I’ve yet one final observation. This is a lovely “A”-lined skirt and the shells open the pattern out nicely. so here’s a thought (especially if making this for a younger child), rather than calculating start stitches by waist, go with the hip measure – so you avoid the zipper and buttons on the waist band, and then add an elastic along with a belt on top so you get a lovely finished frilly effect as well.
You would, of course, have to do one line of (dc in dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc) – so you get a set of ‘holes’ in the waist in which you can thread in a thin cord-like belt.

Ok.. we can finally start with our skirt now J

Instructions  Using U.S terminology

Start with a  multiple of 8 + 1 fdc.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st fdc. (Please read note above before joining)

Round 1 : 2 dc in 1st fdc ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 fdc, (hdc in next fdc ; ch 3, hdc in same fdc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 fdc, 3 dc in next fdc ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 fdc, rep (to) once ; ch 2, sk next 3 fdc, 3 dc in next fdc* ; 
rep *to* till last 8 sts ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 fdc, rep (to) once ; ch 2,  dc in last fdc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st fdc.

Round 2 : ch 3, hdc in next dc ; ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; ch 2,  hdc in last dc.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.


Round 3 : 3 dc in 1st ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 : (Increase row) : sk 1st dc, hdc, 2nd dc ; 
ch 3, hdc in same 2nd dc ; ch 2, sk next dc, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 5 : 4 dc in 1st ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 6 : (Increase row) : sk 1st dc, hdc 2nd dc ; 
ch 3, hdc in same 2nd dc ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 7 : 5 dc in 1st ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 :  sl-st into next 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Rounds 9 – 10 : Rep Rounds 7 & 8 once

Round 11 :  Rep Round 7 once.


Round 12 : (Increase row) : sl-st into 1st 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 6 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 6 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 13 :  6 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc,  (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 6 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 6 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 14 :  sl-st into 1st 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 6 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 6 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 15 :  (Increase row) : 7 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc,  (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 16 :  sl-st into 1st 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 17 :  7 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc,  (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Rounds 18 & 19 : Rep Rounds 16 & 17 once.



Round 20 :  (Increase row) : sl-st into 1st 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 8 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 8 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 21 :  8 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sk next 4 dc,  (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 8 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 8 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 22 :  (Increase row) : sl-st into 1st 4 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 9 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 9 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 23 :  9 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sk next 4 dc,  (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 9 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 9 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 24 :  sl-st into 1st 4 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 9 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 9 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 25 :  9 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sk next 4 dc,  (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 9 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 9 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.



Rounds 26 – 27 :  Rep Rounds 24 & 25

Now do a quick length check and see if you’re ok – else one more increase .. I’ll just take you through one more.. though I’m sure you’ve figured it out by now J

Round 28 :  (Increase row) : sl-st into 1st 4 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, 10 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 10 dc in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 29 :  10 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sk next 4 dc,  (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 5 dc, 10 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc, (hdc in next dc ; ch 3, hdc in same dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 5 dc, 10 dc in next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 2 , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Right in case you’re length is good.. stop here.. else you do 2 more rows of non increase and then one increase again. 

When you’re happy with the length, we’ve got a small border to finish it all off  neatly.



Border Shell  :
Depending on which round you’ve ended on, the border start may differ – so before I write out that pattern line, here’s what we’re going to remember.  
(1)  We’re all going to work our (hdc, ch 3, hdc in same st) in the large shell st ; 
(2)  and this border shell will be worked in the (to) of the previous row.

Border row stitch detail "how to" : (sl-st to the centre of whichever st you are in – so if you are in a dc-shell st, sl-st to the centre, and if you’re in a ch-3 sp, come into that ch-3 sp) ; 
sc in the same st ; ch 6, sc in the centre of the next st set, and go around the full skirt with a ch-6 and sc in centre of the sts.  Join with a sl st to the 1st sc.

Border Row  : 3 dc in sc ; 4 dc in next ch-6 sp ; ch 2, (hdc in next sc, ch 3, hdc in same sc) ; *ch 2, [4 dc in next ch-6 sp ; 3 dc in next sc ; 4 dc in next ch-6 sp] ; ch 2, rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till end ; 4 dc in last ch-6 sp.  Join with a sl-st to the next dc.



Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, show off your lovely gypsy shelled .. you deserve to J


Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J


Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too