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Monday, 20 October 2014

AUTUMNY LEAFY TOP



AUTUMNY LEAFY TOP

I am lucky to be blessed with lovely friends who gift me lovely yarns.  Just yesterday, I received a parcel with this stunning Nako Serin , Viloft – soft, lustrous with a light sheen, I couldn’t wait to see how it feels with the hook…. And then all of us are blessed with the wonderful world of the free wide web and its freebies.. and all the people who browse and share the patterns the find…. aaaah! How lucky are we??  Don’t look a gift horse in the mouth ?? hmmm !? J

And for a few more bolero ideas with free patterns, do take a quick dekho  at

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.  J

Alright , let’s begin.. This is a straight forward pattern.  The designer has started it at the base and then gone straight up to the shoulders, dividing for neck and shoulders.  There are two identical halves made for front and back, which are then joined at shoulder and side seams.
Working off the repeat count, you can easily increase the width and length of this creation, I’m sure.

The designer has started with the regular chain start, which I do not personally like (well, not since I’ve discovered the chainless foundation start stitch method(s)).  You could start with the fsc (foundation single crochet), but as this does not really affect the pattern, and yet will add to the length (well all 0.5” of it !!), I opt to start with the fdc (Foundation Double Crochet).

Now about my yarn – I find Nako Serin is a lovely lovely yarn – soft, with a slight sheen, very easy to use and smooth.  It has been qualified as a Sport weight yarn, but it feels like the Indian 3-4 ply weight yarn.  Nako Serin also feels a little like the Stylecraft 4-ply Baby yarn I’ve used.
It is a little thicker than the Indian Peecock 100% cotton yarn, and slightly thinner than our Indian Laura knitting cotton, so obviously our Anchor /Red Rose and (Indian) Red heart knitting cottons are thinner.
I think that our Indian Vardhaman baby soft would work well , but do check with the gauge I’ve given below.
Nako Serin is available at https://www.facebook.com/yarnswithlove J

Original pattern link probably one of these two  http.//www.liveinternet.ru/users/alla190476 and http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/4047250

Materials used : Nako Serin, Sport / 5 ply (12 wpi),  ~ 160 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook
Size made : Chest : 34” : Length : 22”
Gauge : 5 dc (across) x 2 dc rows (high) = 1”

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

“V”-stitch : “V”-st : (2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                              sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                     ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                                    sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over 
                                                           
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

BACK : (Make two)
So our repeat is a long one.. its 27 stitches.   Working on this number, let’s start with the first row with fdc .  Now to simplify and ease the shape of the armhole, I’ve decided to include an extra row or “V”-sts on both sides of our project that we can then reduce off neatly for the armhole.  However, in the chart by the designer below shows the repeats in multiples of 27 + 1 , and there is no chart / explanation as to how the top bit has been reduced. With the pattern being so neat, I thought mine was the simplest.
Having said this, in case you think of any other way that look simpler, do add it to the comments section and/or email me, so we can simplify this for someone else.
So, looking at the photo of the creation, I’ve worked with a multiple of 27 plus 9 fdc.

Start with a  multiple of 27 + 9 fdc.

Row 1 : dc in 1st fdc ; {“V”-st in next fdc} ; ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , rep {to} once ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 fdc, dc in next 5 fdc ; ch 2 , sk next 2 fdc , dc in next 3 fdc ; ch 3, sk next 2 fdc ; dc in next 3 fdc ; ch 2, sk next 2 fdc , dc in next 5 fdc ; ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , “V”-st in next fdc* ;
rep *to* till last 4 fdc ;  ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , “V”-st in next fdc ; dc in last fdc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st} ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; *ch 1, (sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc) ; ch 2 , sk next  dc , [2 dc in next dc ; dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next dc] ; ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, rep [to] once ; ch 2, rep (to) once ; ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;  rep *to* till end ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st}; ch 1, rep {to} once ; *ch 1, (sk next dc, dc in next dc) ; ch 2 , sk next  dc , [2 dc in next dc ; dc in next 3 dc ; 2 dc in next dc] ; ch 2, 3 dc in next dc ; ch 2, rep [to] once ; ch 2, rep (to) once ; ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;  rep *to* till end ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st} ; ch 1, rep {to} once ;  
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (dc in next 5 dc) ; ch 2 , sk next  dc , [3 dc in next dc ; ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc] ; ch 2, sk next dc , rep (to) once ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;  rep *to* till end ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in 1st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st} ; ch 1, rep {to} once ;  
*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc) ; ch 2 , sk next  dc , [2 dc in next dc ; dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc] ; ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, rep [to] once ; ch 2, rep (to) once ; ch 2, sk next  dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;  rep *to* till end ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : dc in 1st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st} ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; *ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in next dc) ; ch 2 , sk next  dc , [2 dc in next dc ; dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc] ; ch 2, 3 dc in next dc ; ch 2, rep [to] once ; ch 2, rep (to) once ; ch 2, sk next  dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;  rep *to* till end ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Row 7 : dc in 1st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st} ; ch 1, rep {to} once ;  *ch 2, sk next 2 dc, [dc in next 5 dc ; ch 2, sk next dc , 3 dc in next dc ; ch 3, sk next dc ; 3 dc in next dc ; ch 2 , sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc] ;  ch 2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;  rep *to* till end ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; dc in last dc.  Turn.



Row 8 : dc in 1st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st} ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; *ch 2, [sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc] ; ch 2, sk next dc , (2 dc in next dc ; dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next dc) ; ch 2, dc in ch-3 sp ; ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch 2 , sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc ;  ch 2, sk next  dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;  rep *to* till end ; ch 1, rep {to} once ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

And yaay, you’ve finished one repeat.  As you may have seen and guessed, our repeat is Rows 6-8.  Rep Rows 6-8 till you get the height you need till armhole.

Now as our lengths will differ, the line we ‘end’ at may differ. So for the armhole /neckline / shoulder straps, I will generalize how we’ll achieve this.
It doesn't matter which row you end with, and I love the scalloped edge of the top bit 

So we’re going to start the first row of our armholes..

Armhole Decrease Row 1 : sk the 1st dc, and “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; carry on with the pattern till end, and sk the last dc. Turn.

Armhole Decrease Row 2 : sl- st into the 1st “V”-st ch-2 sp, dc in this same ch-2 sp, ch 1,  “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; carry on with the pattern till end, ch 1, and dc in last ch-2 sp of last “V”-st. Turn.

Armhole Decrease Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc, “V”-st ch-2 sp, dc in this same ch-2 sp, ch 1,  “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; carry on with the pattern till end, and then sk ch-1 sp, and dc in last dc. Turn.

Armhole decreases complete , you now continue with the pattern till you reach the height you need for your neckline. 
Once you’ve reached the neckline row, you will continue with just the (1st dc and “V”-st in the next “V”-st, and then a dc in the next ch-2 sp) ; till you reach the shoulder level.. then fasten off and weave in ends.  You will then re-attach your yarn in the ch-2 sp just before that last “V”-st and complete the other strap in the same way – so dc in that same ch-2 sp ; “V”-st in last “V”-st and then dc in last dc.

To complete your neckline and armhole edges, you could run a row of sc or hdc all around.

You’re done with one side of your Autumny leafy top – so repeat this for the back, and then join in shoulder straps and the sides.  Weave in ends and block as per yarn instructions.


And this is the photograph (designers) that inspired me

Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your cool top on and show off.. you deserve to J

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Have a great day and see you soon. J