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Wednesday, 27 August 2014

ONE PIECE EASY BOLERO (child & adult sizes)






ONE PIECE EASY BOLERO (child & adult sizes)

 This bolero is a quick project – and it can be made in several sizes.  I’ve made it first for a little girl (Size 26”) and then again for an adult (Size 33”). 
Neither pattern are originally mine.. these are just my notes for my creations.  As many a times, we find that the yarns used in the original pattern do not match our Indian available yarns, here are my notes with those inclusions.


GIRL’S BOLERO / SHRUG



This is NOT my pattern and for the original pattern, please visit the link below http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/girls-bolero-shrug

Materials used : Vardhaman millennium, DK ply ; about 70 – 80 gms ; with a 4.5 mm crochet hook
Size made : Chest size 26”
Skill level : Intermediate, advanced beginner

Notes : The little girl’s bolero and the ‘big girl’ bolero are basically the same idea.. the main difference is that in the lil girl’s bolero, the designer has not used a pattern for the square back piece.  So if you want the patterned back, please read the first few lines of the ladies bolero.
So how does one figure out how big a back needed ?? Well, as you will see from diagram below, the square back portion should cover all of back – so if you get an approx across back in that square, your creation will fit the young ‘un you wish to make this for J

There is a small difference in the back portions for kid and adult bolero :
For the adult bolero, back is larger, so you will only use part of this back portion for the armhole.
For the child bolero, you will go along the top edge, then chains for one armhole till bottom edge, again work along the bottom edge and make chains for the other armhole, attaching at the top edge where you’ve started. 
So a quick diagram to re-iterate what I’ve explained.



Finally, I used only one colour for my kid bolero (original pattern uses two colours), and followed the pattern with our Vardhaman yarn, and it’s worked out well for me J.  Hope you have fun making it as well.


LADIES BOLERO / SHRUG



This is NOT my pattern and for the original pattern, just my notes on making this pattern.  


I found that I am not too happy with the way the square for back eventually turned out.. as it puckers at the edges.. so may I suggest the following..
Instead of starting with the final number of stitches you actually need, start with FOUR LESS.. and then over the next 2 rows, increase one st each end.  Similarly at the end of the last 2 rows, decrease one st each end.. Yes, this does mean a small recalculation.. but most ‘end’ stitches are sk (n number of) sts and then sc, dc or trc in last st.. so you just need to ignore the number of sts you are skipping and add or decrease a stitch there J

Finally, you may notice a ‘bold’ line at the top n bottom of my finished photos of project.. that is as I’ve started with a row of dc and ended with dc too (where as designer has started and ended with single crochet, so this pattern has been written accordingly).

After photographing, I find that I need a row of dc around armhole to complement the dc around square, so will finish that now. 

Materials used : Baby 4-ply by Stylecraft ; about 90 gms ; with a 4.5 mm crochet hook
Stylecraft is not an Indian yarn, however, I find that this yarn is similar to our regular unbranded or Oswal 4 ply acrylic yarn, Vardhaman baby soft yarn, or Oswal Cashmilon yarn.
Size made : Chest size 32” (I’ve done the square = 35 cm x 35 cm)
Skill level : Intermediate, advanced beginner

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single crochet : To refresh your knowledge of the fsc, do visit the superb video by Tamara Kelly at this link -    http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/   J

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with the ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely enw way of starting a dc row.   Do take a look at this self explanatory video
In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue to use your ch-2 or ch-3 start. However, please note that all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Small shell : (dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Large shell : (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                     dc : Double crochet
ch : Chain                                                                     sl-st : Slip stitch

We make this cute bolero, as we do for the small child’s one – by first making the square at the back, then working in a round to make the bolero.

So before we rush off to make this, I’d like to give you a diagrammatic idea of what we’re going to do.


Now the original pattern chart shows 3 sizes for this back portion of 35 cm, 37 cm and 39 cm for a Small, Medium and Large size.  The pattern for the back is in multiples of 5, so make the first row to equal the S,M or L size you wish accordingly.
Per my calculations, the S is a 32-33”, just for information. J

Row 1 : Start with fsc in multiples of five. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in 1st fsc, ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in next fsc ; *ch 5, sk next 4 fsc, sc in next fsc* ; rep from *to* till 2nd last fsc, sc in last fsc. Turn.



Row 3 : dc in 1st sc, 5 dc in ch-5 sp ; *ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp* ; rep from *to* till end, dc in last sc. Turn.



Row 4 : sc in the 1st st ; *ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 5, sk both ch-2 sps and sc, sc in next dc* ; rep from *to* till end.  Turn.



Row 5 : dc in 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; ch 2, 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp* ; rep from *to* till last ch-5 sp, dc in last sc. Turn.



Row 6 : sc in the 1st st ; *ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 5, sk both ch-2 sps and sc, sc in next dc* ; rep from *to* till end.  Turn.



Rep Rows 3 - 6 till your project is nearly a square (i.e width and height are the same).
In the last row, work sc’s in such a way that you get the original number of sts you started with in the first fsc row. 

Right so we’ve made the back piece, now we will work in rounds and get the sleeves and front ‘vest’ bits in.  So once more a quick explanation of what we’re going to do – The top bit of your back square along with the chains you will now make will be your armhole. The designer has given instructions of leaving 17.5 cm from the top (of back square) for armhole. 

Body of Bolero
Note : As we’re using the original chart for guidance, and the first row of chain has not been numbered, I am calling this first row as a start round.

Start Round : sc in 1st st ; *ch 5, sk 4 sts, sc in next st* ; rep from *to* till end of this row ; then make a long ch in multiples of five (that equals half your round arm) , sc in st about 18 cm from top (or the length from top that equals to half your round arm) ; rep from *to* till you reach the opposite side of your square where your armhole is needed, and leaving the space for your armhole with the chains. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Pl note  (A) that the ch shown for armhole is diagrammatic representation and not actual st count
(B) For reference : My calculations : Round armhole = 14” ; ch number made = 35 ; attached onto top of the 5th set of 5 dc (the 5 dc in the 5 ch-sp we’ve done on back)
(C) Ensure that you keep this chain flat before attaching.
(D) Silly but practical – when you’ve finished your armhole opening, slip on to check that it fits comfortably – else now’s the time to make the changes needed J


Round 1 : small shell in the 1st sc , ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; *ch 3, large shell in next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, small shell in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 2 : *small shell in small shell ; ch 3, large shell in large shell ; ch 3* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : *large shell in small shell ; ch 3, large shell in large shell ; ch 3* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : *large shell in small shell ; ch 4 * ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : Rep Round 4

Round 6 : *large shell in small shell ; ch 5 * ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : *large shell in large shell ; ch 3, 2 dc in ch-5 sp ; ch 3* rep from *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : *large shell in large shell ; ch 3, small shell in ch-5 sp ; ch 3* rep from *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 9 : Rep Round 7

Round 10 : *large shell in large shell ; ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) all in ch-5 sp ; ch 3* rep from *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.


Rep Round 10 till you have a bolero of the size desired.

The designer seems to have done 20 (20, 22) lines in total for S (M , L) I think .. however and I have done a total of 19 lines for my bolero. (which as I mentioned before, has been made for Size 32-33”)
After photographing, I find that I need a row of dc around armhole to complement the dc around square, so will finish that now. 

So may I suggest that after you complete your creation, pl run one line of sc or reverse sc (crab stitch, which will also give a super finish) around your armhole. 

Crab stitch / Reverse single crochet : (Reverse sc) : This is your regular single crochet st, but done in reverse.  So instead of moving ‘clockwise’ as we regularly work, you move anti-clockwise or counter clockwise, and you’ll achieve a slightly ‘bumpy’ single crochet, which is your reverse sc. 

Hope you've enjoyed this pattern write up too as much as I have had in making it, and I wish you all the best in your project.  Do add /follow me so you can get all my future ideas and patterns direct to your inbox.

Have a super day ! J

















Monday, 25 August 2014

BEAUTIFULLY SIMPLE SHELLED SKIRT



BEAUTIFULLY SIMPLE SHELLED SKIRT

Following my absolutely brilliant try (at writing out and making at top speed) a pattern I’d gleaned from the net.. here’s my second.. and hopefully this one too will thrill you as much as it’s making me smile.. and I’ve not even begun.  This one appears really easy- peasy.. there are only two pattern bits.. one each for the top waist portion and one for the lower shelled bit.. so.. yaay .. let’s get on with it.

Pattern is worked in rounds from the first round, with a small loop hole in which you can thread either a cord made from the same material as skirt, or a slender belt.  As this is worked in rounds, you need to ensure that the skirt goes around the hips of the person you're making it for, and then the corded belt on top will give you a lovely ruffled skirt.
You could also fit in a zipper around the back of your skirt, in which case your waist start line could be just a little larger than your round waist, and then you work in rows back and forth, till your project will slip around hip, then join project and work in rounds again.

I have given instructions below, assuming that you too, like designer will be working in rounds from start.

Materials used : Anchor Cotton knitting yarn #00089 ; (used about 3.5 balls total), with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

Size :  To fit UK size 10-12 / US size 6-8

Stitches used :
Foundation Double crochet : A really lovely way to start a foundation row of stitches, directly as a double crochet, without the chains.  This unique way of starting your project actually makes it evener gives your whole project an evenness that needs to be seen to be agreed with.  If you are familiar with the foundation single crochet, then you’ll surely wonder why you didn’t use this one before J
Do visit this link, and learn this fascinating, easy way to start.http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-double-crochet-fdc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Chainless Treble crochet : A really lovely way to start a row stitches without the ch 3 or ch 4 start, and this is the chainless treble crochet.  This unique way of starting makes your project even- in a way that needs to be seen for you to agree with me.  Do visit the self explanatory link to learn this fascinating new start.
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-3 or ch-4 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Large shell : (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Small shell : (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Abbreviations used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet               rep : Repeat
dc : Double crochet                                    trc : triple/treble crochet
ch : Chain                                                    sk : skip
st : Stitch                                                     sl-st : Slip Stitch

Instructions (Using U.S terminology)
Start with fdc to go around hips, in multiples of 10. Keeping this chain flat, join ends.  We will work in rounds through pattern

Round 1 : trc in 1st 2 dc ; ch 2, sk 2 dc, trc in next 2 dc ;
* trc in next 2 dc ; ch 2, sk 2 dc, trc in next 2 dc* ;  rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to 1st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st 2 trc ; dc in the next 2 ch ; * dc in the next 2 trc ; dc in the next 2 ch* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to 1st st.


Round 3 : Rep Round 1

Round 4 : Rep Round 2

CHART WITHOUT NOTATION 


WAIST BAND ROW
Round 5 : large shell in 1st dc ; *ch 3, sk 4 dc, sc in next dc ; ch 3, sk 4 dc, large shell in next dc ; ch 3, sk 4 dc, sc in next dc * ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to 1st st.

Round 6 : sk 1st 2 dc (of large shell), dc in next 2 ; small shell in ch-2 sp ; dc in next 2 dc ; sk last 2 dc ; *ch 2, sc in 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, sk 1st 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc ; small shell in ch-2 sp ; dc in next 2 dc ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in next ch-3 sp* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to 1st st.

Round 7 :  sk 1st 2 dc , dc in next 2 ; small shell in ch-2 sp ; dc in next 2 dc ; sk last 2 dc ; *ch 3, sk ch-2 sp, sc in ch-4 sp ; ch 3, sk ch-2 sp, sk 1st 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc ; small shell in ch-2 sp ; dc in next 2 dc* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to 1st st.

Rep Rounds 6 & 7 till you have a skirt of the length you are happy with



CHART WITHOUT NOTATION
 FIRST ROUND OF SHELLS COMPLETE

AND ON COMPLETION OF A FEW MORE SHELL ROWS

Finishing :
Make two cords to go through the holes you’ve made on your waist band.  Your cord should be about one and a half times the width/circumference of waist made. 
To make cord, make a chain about 1.5 times the width of waist, and dc in each ch back to the 1st st.  Rep this for the second cord as well.
Loop into the holes / loops made on your waist band.

Of course, you could also, (like I have) take the easier option and just loop in a convenient thin belt you have at home. J

Weave in all ends and wear with pride. 

I’ve enjoyed writing this up and sharing it with you.  Hope you’ve had as much fun making the project too.   Do follow me here or via Google+ to avoid missing my next fun project.  Do also visit me on facebook (Sweet Nothings Crochet) for any of the projects / write-ups you may have missed. J


Saturday, 23 August 2014

BEANIES, BERETS, BABY TURBAN ‘N MORE - 1


BEANIES, BERETS, BABY TURBAN ‘N MORE - 1


Headwear is fun.  Headwear is creative.  Headwear gets the ‘brain juices’ flowin .. you take a simple bit of yarn, using your hook .. tie it up in a few knots, and voila! Before you know it .. you’ve got something to cover the head!  How lovely is that??! J

Here is a selection of head stuff .. links for beanies, berets and a really really cute and easy baby turban.  Enjoy J

Some of these pattern links given below are my original patterns, and some of them are just some super freebies I’ve found floating on the net… which I’ve tried out.  For those that I’ve tried (and / or tweaked), I’ve written down my comments and notes. 
Just for your information, these are yarn weight specifications as per CYCA.



Crochet Baby Turban

Materials used : Vardhaman Baby Soft  ~ 15 gms ; 4 mm crochet hook
Size : 0-3 months
Skill level : Easy , beginner
Changes made : Did one last row of reverse sc / crab stitch at the end for a rounded finish.
Crab stitch / Reverse single crochet : (Reverse sc) : This is your regular single crochet st, but done in reverse.  So instead of moving ‘clockwise’ as we regularly work, you move anti-clockwise or counter clockwise, to achieve a slightly ‘bumpy’ single crochet, which is your reverse sc. 

Vaada slouch


 http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/crocheting/accessory/vaada-slouch/93602
This is my original design.
The pattern has been written using U.S terminology.
One evening, while watching the lovely rom-com “The Vow”, in the last frame, Rachel McAdams wore this really cute slouchy.. and she looked so beautiful.. and oh so lost.. it was a tug on the heart strings (no wonder Channing Tatum looked all  lost too.. or just a great actor?? J).. so anyway, this is my take on that slouchy.. my “Vaada slouch” (Vaada meaning “Vow” in Hindi – and I vow that this is an easy pattern for you to follow as well J
Materials used : Tested using Vardhaman millennium DK ply yarn , 50 gms with 4.5 mm crochet hook ; Vanna solids, worsted weight acrylic, 0.75 skein/100 yds with 4.25 mm crochet
Size : Free size, easily adaptable for any size.
Skill level : Easy , beginner

Leher beanie



This is my original design.
The pattern has been written using U.S terminology and comes with a chart and photos
This beanie has been designed for a friend’s son, who loves going on treks and arranges adventure tours.  This young man, like the wave, is a calm, easy-going person – who broke all ‘moulds’ that Society creates and made a different life for himself.  He’s off yet again, on another adventure, and could use this warm hat.  This hat is part of set that includes a matching scarf.
Materials used : This pattern has been tested using 4-ply light fingering yarn, about 25 gms each of 2 colours, with a 4.5 mm crochet hook ; Caron Simply Soft and Pound of Love with a 4.5 mm crochet hook.
Size : Free size, easily adaptable for any size.
Skill level : Advanced beginner, Intermediate (as marked by tester, due to the multiple colours)

Teer beret & slouch

This is my original design. This design can be adapted to make either a beret or a slouch. It also has a matching scarf.
The pattern has been written using U.S terminology and comes with a chart and photos
Materials used : This pattern has been tested for the beret using Vardhaman millennium DK ply yarn ~45 gms with a 4.5 mm crochet hook ; Colourmart DK weight yarn ~84 gms with a 4.5 mm crochet hook ; Life DK Prints by Stylecraft ~50 gms with a 4.5 mm crochet hook ;
For slouch : Vardhaman millennium DK ply yarn ~90 gms with a 4.5 mm crochet hook ; Pound of love ~100 gms with a  4.5 mm crochet hook ; Primo from Premier yarns ~ 90 gms with a 4.5 mm crochet hook
Size : Free size
Skill level : Intermediate, advanced beginner (as marked by testers)


Very Berry Headband


http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/knitting/accessory/very-berry-headband/88020
And let’s throw in a headband for good measure. J
For best results, suggest using two colours of yarn, but this pattern is so cute and easy, it will show in one colour of yarn as well.
Materials used : This pattern has been tested using Vardhaman millennium DK ply ~ 15 gms each in 2 colours with a 4.5 mm crochet hook ;
Robin Paintbox DK wool ~25 gms with a 4 mm crochet hook ;
Unbranded 4-ply acrylic fingering yarn ~10 gms each with a 4 mm crochet hook ;
Snuggly Wuggly ~ 0.30 oz each colour with a G crochet hook ;
Stylecraft Special DK ~ 10 gms with a 4 mm crochet hook ;
Bernat Baby Sport Ombre ~ 1 oz (90) yds with a 4 mm crochet hook ;
Oswal mills 4-ply fingering weight yarn ~10 gms each with a 4 mm crochet hook ;
Bernat softee Baby Ombres with a 4 mm crochet hook ; and Red Heart Super Saver worsted weight ~1 oz using a G crochet hook
Size : Free size
Skill level : Easy, beginner

Hope you’ve enjoyed this weekend headwear special.  Do add me on your mailing list or on Google+ to avoid missing future updates. 

Have a great weekend too J










Wednesday, 20 August 2014

BABY SHOES EXTRAVAGANZA


BABY SHOES EXTRAVAGANZA


Baby shoes are probably one of the cutest little things one can make.. and now with the world open with the internet, we’re getting so many super patterns .. all at the click of a button .. or mouse?? J
So here’s a recent selection of baby footwear that I made for a friend.  I started with the really cute tried and tested bootie, and then got more and more creative and fun.. hope you enjoy it as much as I did .. trawling the net, getting patterns, and then trying to adapt them for my use J

These are not my original patterns.  
I’ve just Indianised  them .. i.e as the original yarns used in most patterns are unavailable locally, I’ve made with our local available yarns. ; adding my notes – and information for gauge/size etc.

This blog has five little shoes.. More little shoes coming up.. do watch out for my next blog.. soon J


The simple age-old tried ‘n tested bootie


Materials used  : Vardhaman millennium, acrylic ; 4 mm crochet hook

Size :  for 6 month old : L :  4”/10 cm, around ankle 5.5”/14 cm
Gauge : 4 sc rows x 5 sc across = 1”
Skill level : Intermediate, advanced beginner

Stitches used :
Sc-blo : Single crochet back loop only : This is a single crochet, but instead of going through both loops as we usually do with an sc, you go only through the back loop(s) of your stitch

2-tr : 2 treble/triple stitch in same stitch or ch-sp.
(yo twice, [insert hk in st , yo , draw through 2 lps] twice) {2 lps on hk} ; insert hk into same st , rep from (to) once {3 lps on hk} ; yo, draw through all lps.  1 2-tr st complete.

3-tr : 3 treble/triple stitch in same stitch or ch-sp
(yo twice, [insert hk in st , yo , draw through 2 lps] twice) {2 lps on hk} ; insert hk into same st , rep from (to) twice {4 lps on hk} ; yo, draw through all lps.  1 3-tr st complete.

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view the superb video by +Tamara Kelly at this link below http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

 Abbreviations used :
Sc : Single crochet                                             sc-blo : Single crochet back loop only
Tr : treble / triple crochet stitch                 yo : Yarn over
Hk : Hook                                                             st(s) : Stitch(es)
Lp (s) : Loop(s)                                                   ch : Chain
Sl-st : slip stitch                                                   fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
We will work in rounds from the start, using only one half of the sc and then going around the last ch, and working into the same ch from the other side, thus doubling our sts and making the start chain a round.

Part I :
Start with ch 4.
Round 1 : sc in the 2nd ch from hk ; 
sc in the next ch ; 6 sc in the last ch ;
(then turning your work 180°, we will work on the same 3 ch from the other side ..)
Sc in the next 2 ch, 4 sc in the last ch.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (14 sc)

Round 2 : sc in the 1st sc and the next 3 sc ; 
2 sc each in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next 4 sc ; 
2 sc each in the next 3 sc. Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (20 sc)

Round 3 - 14 : sc in each sc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (20 sc)

Row 15 : Heel round : sc in the 1st 2 sc.  Turn
sc in the same 1st sc, and in the next 14 sc.  
Turn (We will now work back on these 15 sc)

Row 16 : sk 1st 3 sc , dc in next sc ; 2 tr in the next 2 sc ; 3 tr in the next 3 sc ;
2 tr in the next 2 sc ; dc in the next sc ; 
sk 2 sc and sl-st into the next sc.  Turn

Round 17 : Ankle round : sc in each sc ; 
2 sc in each 2-tr st and 3 sc in each 3-tr st till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (27 sc)

Fasten off.  Leave a 12-15” tail for joining.

Part II :
In this part we will make a small ribbed cylinder that will go around the lower part of your child’s foot.  This we will then join onto the Part I made to complete our cute lil’ bootie

Start with fsc 12.

Row  1 : sc-blo in each fsc till end.  Turn.  (12 sc)

Row  2 : sc-blo in each sc till end.  Turn.  (12 sc)

Rows  3 - 14 : Rep Row 2 .  Turn.  (12 sc)

Check that the ‘width / breadth’ of this little rectangle = approx 5”, which when stretched will go around the 5.5” needed for your child’s foot

Fasten off.  Make a ‘tube’ / cylinder of the rectangle just made by joining first and last rows.

Finishing :
Using the tail kept at the ankle part, join in the cylindrical tube just made to the first Part of your project.  Fasten off.  Weave in ends. 



2 : Tiny bowed shoes



Materials used : Vardhaman millennium, acrylic ; 4 mm crochet hook

Size :   L of sole :  4.5” across (at widest part) : 2.75”
Gauge : Sole of shoe from toe to heel = 4.5”

Skill level : Intermediate, advanced beginner

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view the superb vide by Tamara Kelly at this link below http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Sc2tog : Insert hk into st, yo, draw up a lp, hk into next st, yo, draw up a lp (2 lps on hk), yo, draw through all 3 lps. One sc2tog made.  

Hdc : Half double crochet : yo, insert hk into st l yo (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                     sc : Single crochet
hdc : Half double crochet                                              dc : Double crochet
sk : Skip                                                                                   sl-st : Slip stitch
hk : Hook                                                                                lp(s) : Loop(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                                    ch : Chain
MC : Main Colour                                                             CC : Contrast Colour

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
We will make our little shoe in three parts – a sole , then the top of the shoe and finally the embellishment with the little bow.  I used two colours – one each for sole (CC) and top (MC), and for the bow I’ve used the CC again .. but this is only a suggestion.  J

Part I : Sole of shoe : Make two

Row 1 : Start with CC and with 9 fsc.  Turn

In the next row, we will start at one end, and when we reach the other end, we will turn our work 180° and work around to the other side of our fsc, so doubling number of start sts.  We will then continue working in rounds from now on.

Round  2 :  2 hdc in the 1st fsc ; hdc in the next 7 fsc ; 
6 hdc in the last fsc ; 
(and turning your work 180° and working around the other side of our fsc) ; 
hdc in next 7 fsc (till the 2nd last fsc) ; 
2 hdc in the last fsc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.  (24 hdc)

Round  3 :  2 sc in the next 2 sts ; sc in each of the next 4 sts ; 
hdc in the next 3 sts ; 2 dc in the next 6 sts ; 
hdc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 4 sts and 2 sc each into the last 2 sts.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.  (34 sts)

Round  4 :  sc in the 1st 2 sts ; 2 hdc in the next 3 sts ; hdc in the next 5 sts ; dc in the next 2 sts ; (2 dc in the next st, dc in the next st) ; rep from (to) 5 times ; dc in the next 2 sts ; hdc in the next 5 sts ; 2 hdc in the last 3 sts.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.  (46 sts)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends. 

Place the soles flat.  You can see a clear toe and heel end (the heel end is the smaller rounded end, and the toe is the larger rounded end).  We will start by joining our MC yarn on the heel end

Part II : Top of shoe :

Round 1 :  Attach MC in the centre st of the heel end (where you’ve just fastened off).  sc in the 1st st (where joined) ; sc in each st all around.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.  Turn . (46 sc)

Round 2 :  hdc in the 1st sc, hdc in each sc till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.  Turn . (46 hdc)

Round 3 :  sc in the 1st st ; sc 2-tog over next 2 sts ; sc in the next 7 sts ; hdc in the next 2 sts ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts) ; rep from (to) 4 times ; dc 3-tog over the next 3 sts ; rep from (to) 5 times ; hdc in the next 2 sts ; sc in the next 7 sts ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 st and sc in the last st.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 :  sc in the 1st st ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ; sc in the next 5 sts ; hdc in the next 3 sts ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts) ; rep (to) once ; dc 3-tog over the next 3 sts ; rep (to) twice ; hdc in the next 3 sts ; sc in the next 5 sts ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ; sc in the last sc.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 :  sc in the 1st st ; sc in each st till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st. (25 sts) Fasten off MC.

Round 6Using CC : Rep Round 5. 

Round 7Using CC : Rep Round 6.  Fasten off CC.  Weave in ends.


Part III : The tiny bow :

Row 1 : Start with ch 5.  Sc in the 2nd ch from hk and each ch till end.  Turn . (4 sc)

Row 2 : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts.  Turn . (3 sc)

Row 3 : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sts, sc in the next st.  Turn . (2 sc)

Row 4 : sc 2-tog over the 2 sts.  Turn . (1 sc)

Row 5 : 2 sc in sc.  Turn . (2 sc)

Row 6 : 2 sc in 1st sc; sc in next sc.  Turn . (3 sc)

Row 7 : 2 sc in 1st sc; sc in next 2 sc.  Turn . (4 sc).  Fasten off.  Weave in ends.  One bow made.

Trick to keep this tiny bow neat : It’s so tiny and yet has two ends to weave in.. so let’s hide that by first weaving your ends to the centre, and then ‘hiding’ them by wrapping the MC a few times around this centre bit.  Then ‘thread’ the MC into the shoe (where ever you decide to attach your bow .. front .. back of shoe..) and so all ends are neatly hidden

Now who doesn’t like the age old, tried and tested cute little bootie.. so here’s what I made for a six month old – delicious in pink J

This bootie is made in two parts – one for the foot (sole) and then we have the section that goes round the baby’s ankle. This bootie is started at the toe and then worked in rounds till you reach the base (heel) of foot.  Then just around ankle, we fasten off and make a cylinder-like section that we will attach on to the ankle/heel bit. 



3. Baby Boat Booties

This pattern is from the blog link below – good pictures, well explained.

Materials used : Vardhaman millennium ; 4 mm crochet hook

Size : L of sole : 4.5”





Only change made : After completion of the round that makes the little flaps , I did one more round of sc all around, as I felt that I needed more ‘height’ for my shoe (for the baby I am gifting this to).  So I’d suggest you check your baby’s foot and take a call on this J






4. Bitty Bow Sandals

This pattern is from the blog link below.  Materials used and changes (if any) noted.

http://www.whistleandivy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Bitty-Bow-Baby-Sandal4.pdf

Materials used : Vardhaman millennium ; 4 mm crochet hook
Size : 4.5” across from toe to heel and 2.5”  (across at widest part)

Stitch detail :
Foundation Double crochet : A really lovely way to start a foundation row of chainless double crochet.  This unique way of starting makes your project even .. in a way that needs to be seen for you to agree with me.  If you are familiar with the foundation single crochet, you’ll wonder why you haven’t used this start before.  Do visit the self explanatory link to learn this fascinating new start.

Only change made : 21 fdc used for the tie band = L 5.25”.  I then affixed a press button at the end of this band – so it presses shut instead of tying up.



5. Mary Jane Shoes

 This pattern is from the blog link below – good pictures, well explained. Materials used and changes (if any) noted.


Materials used : Vardhaman millennium ; 4.5 mm crochet hook
Size : 4.5” across from toe to heel


Only changes made :
a)     For fun, used 2 colours – so used contrast colour in Rounds 3, 5, 7
b)     Instead of the slip stitch used in the last row (when joining straps), I used sc.