Sunday, 28 September 2014

PINEAPPLE FOOT THONG

free crochet foot thong patternfree crochet barefoot sandal pattern


PINEAPPLE FOOT THONG


A really cute little piece of footwear.. that would look lovely on the beach.. or maybe just around the house J

This lovely product can be used in a multitude of ways. It not only looks wonderful on the beach, but it can also jazz up regular footwear.  Wear this first and then slip on your close toed shoe, and voila you have a new shoe!  The tie up along the leg can also make it a different footwear - allow the tie to go halfway up the calf muscle and it looks informal.. tie it down a little scrunched up around the ankle, and it looks a little more formal.

And for Indians or an Indian ceremony, throw in a few beads and lotsa colour and you are fit to dance the Garba and Bhangra barefoot but beautiful on the dance floor!

So come along.. let's make this wonderful foot thong ;)

Materials used : Red Rose knitting cotton ~ 20 gms  , with a 3.75 mm (F) crochet hook

Size made : Width : 4.5” ; Length :  5.5”
Gauge : 4 sc sts (across) x 3 sc rows (high) = ½”
Gauge does not matter.  It's given here only so you can kinda figure out sizing.

Stitches used :

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to thread beads onto your yarn : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3WKv0W8miQ

How to add beads in crochet : Check out this neat link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MbLCuyfv-M




Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet                          sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                       ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                                            sl-st : Slip stitch
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together                        dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-together
yo : Yarn Over                                                                  hk : Hook
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                                    st(s) : Stitch(es)


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

We start our foot thong from around the ankle and work down to the toe hold.
Your first row should be the width you want for the top of your foot thong.

This pattern uses basic stitches and the wonderful pineapple pattern.  So if you have worked the pineapple before, come along.  However note that this pattern does not give you specific number of stitches to be worked.
The reason I have not given a fixed number of stitches is because not only can it be made any size, but it can also be made with any yarn and hook, and giving a fixed number of stitches curbs your individuality and creativity.. so let's go ahead and create !

Oh at the top of this blog, I've given you links on how to work with beads.  This thong will look splendid with beads - so if you are gonna bling this up, here's what you gotta do first
a) Look at the pineapple and mark out where you want your beads
b) Calculate how many beads you have marked out - and then add in a little more than that, just in case
c) Work the pattern adding in the beads as you go along
IF all of this seems too confusing, go the cheat way - work this pattern as given without any beads, and then sew them in after you are done.  Note though, you need to be pretty neat sewing them in.. as you would not want trailing  yarns spoiling the pineapple beauty.


Start with an odd number of fsc, sufficient to go around the front of your foot.  Turn
While I'd urge you to try the fsc, if using plain chain, start with an even number of chain, and work the 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hk.  You should have an odd number at the end .  

Row 1 : sc each fsc till end.  Turn.

Row 2 - 3 : sc each fsc till end.  Turn.

“V”- stitch : “V”-st : (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 4 : “V”-st in the 1st sc ; 
*ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc* ; 
rep from *to* till 2nd last sc ; ch 1, sk next sc, “V”-st in last sc.  Turn.


Note : From this row on, few things to remember :
1.        Each “V”-st will start in the centre of the ch-1 sp.  So you will sl-st into that ch-1 sp and work from there.  Instructions are directly from that ch-sp and I will not be (boringly) writing that in at the start of each line J
2.       The 1st and last sts are your “V”-sts.  We will be starting the first “V” for the pineapple in the centre of your Row 4.. so count out an equal no. of spaces/sts on either side and mark that centre st.
3.       You will make ch’s till you reach that centre st. you’ve marked and then do the V-st there, and then the same no of ch’s back till the end.
4.       As we’re working with a different set of sts, the no. of sts from now on will be “N”
5.       In row 6, the number of dc you make in that centre st will determine how ‘wide’ your little project is going to be – so do the next row, (when sts open out further), check that you’re happy with the width and continue on OR change the number of stitches.

Row 5 : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
*ch N (no. of sts), sk sts till the centre st, “V”-st in next dc ; 
ch N till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in last sc.  Turn.

Row 6 : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
*ch N (minus one st that  you’ve used in the last row), 10 dc in next “V”-st ; 
ch N (minus one st that  you’ve used in the last row) till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in last “V”-st.  Turn.


 Row 7 : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
ch N (minus one st that  you’ve used in the last row),
dc in 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; 
rep from (to) 8 times ; 
ch N (minus one st that  you’ve used in the last row) till last “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in last “V”-st.  Turn.

Row 8 : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
ch N (same no. of sts that  you’ve used in the last row),
sk 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep from (to) 8 times ; 
ch N (same no. of sts that  you’ve used in the last row) till last “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in last “V”-st.  Turn.


 Row 9 : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
ch N (minus one st that  you’ve used in the last row),
sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, sc in the next dc) ; 
rep from (to) 7 times ; 
ch N (minus one st that  you’ve used in the last row) till last “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in last “V”-st.  Turn.

Row 10 : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
ch N (same no. of sts that  you’ve used in the last row),
sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep from (to) 6 times ; 
ch N (same no. of sts that  you’ve used in the last row) till last “V”-st ;
V”-st in last “V”-st.  Turn.

Row 11 : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
ch N (same no. of sts that  you’ve used in the last row),
sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep from (to) 5 times ; 
ch N (same no. of sts that  you’ve used in the last row) till last “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in last “V”-st.  Turn.

Row 12-15 : Rep Row 11, reducing the number of reps by 1 with each row, till you have only one ch-3 sp.


Next Row : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
ch N (same no. of sts that  you’ve used in the last row),
sc in the ch-3 sp ; ch N (same no. of sts that  you’ve used in the last row) till last “V”-st ; 
“V”-st in last “V”-st.  Turn.

Last Row : “V”-st in the 1st ch-sp ; 
ch N (these will be the no. of sts you need to go around your 2nd toe as per pic below) ; 
“V”-st in last “V”-st.  Fasten off.  Weave in ends.



Yaay.. we’re nearly done.  Now all we’ve gotta do is make that little tie to go around your ankles – so go back to that first fsc row, and re-attach your yarn at one end.  Make sufficient ch to go around your foot and fasten off. Weave that end in. 

The come back to the other end of the same 1st fsc row and make a similar length ch from this end.  Weave this end in too.. and VOILA ! C’est tout .. ok.. so that’s probably the limit of my Francais, but this cute little project does have a little pizzazz now.. doesn’t it – demands a little French J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did .. come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon.   

I have made a few other footwear projects before.. and here they are. 




Friday, 26 September 2014

OH WOW !! SUCH A LOVELY SKIRT

free crochet skirt pattern




OH WOW !! SUCH A LOVELY SKIRT


What else can one say when one sees a pattern like this??  J.  Just a few days back, I dragged my dear husband all the way to a really crowded area of Mumbai to purchase yarns. So the least I can do now is work on them quickly and ‘justify’ the really difficult time I gave him that afternoon J

On completion of this beauty, the first thought that came to me was Angie from Minions and her famous line (which I am paraphrasing)... "Its so *pwetty*.. I'm gonna die..."!!!

This is not  my original pattern or idea (how I wish it were.. such an amazingly creative brain has thought this through!!).  This is yet another lovely free pattern floating the net, for which there is a chart (by designer?) - and as I'm making my own beautiful skirt, I am writing down my notes.  
Hopefully there aren't any errors (or nothing too serious to misunderstand), but if you do stumble on anything, do let me know, so I can update and change it in this pattern sheet. 

I started writing my blogs and notes as I found that I was unable to work with many of the internationally available patterns due to the paucity of yarns available locally.  Two things have changed - we do get quite a few yarns (local and international) now, and I have quite a few followers internationally as well.  I have therefore edited in information for yarn usage.

I give a lot of information through all my blogs and notes.  Please go through all my notes before you start on your project.  Cheers and happy crafting.


Materials used : Red Rose knitting cotton ~ 280 gms  (nearly 3 skeins), with a 3.75 mm (F) crochet hook
For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton, White rose knitting cotton or the superb range of yarns from Alize are great substitutes too.
For Non-Indians : Red Rose knitting cotton is an Indian yarn and probably unavailable outside India.  However, among the international yarns that I've used in a similar weight category, I'd say Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Milford Soft, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australian yarn), DMC Petra and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cottons would fall in.  
The yarn I've used technically needs a 2.5 - 3mm crochet hook.  I like the extra stretch a slightly larger yarn affords, and have chosed a 3.75 mm hk accordingly.

Size made : Waist : 28-30” ; Length :  19”
Gauge : 5 dc sts (across) x 2 dc rows (high) = 1”
Gauge is not important.  I have only given it for a guide on yarn usage.


Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !
Do visit this lovely link http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-double-crochet-fdc/

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainelss dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.

Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet                      sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                    ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                                        sl-st : Slip stitch
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together              dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-together
yo : Yarn Over                                                              hk : Hook
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                                st(s) : Stitch(es)


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

free crochet skirt pattern

This skirt can be made to any size using any yarn.  Just ensure that you get the stitch count right for the size you are making it for and you're good to go.

The skirt pattern stitch count is in multiples of eight.  

So work as many sts as needed for you to get a chain that goes around the waist and in multiples thereof.  We’ll meet back here after we’re done doing that.

The pattern has been written to work in rounds.  
If you need a small opening around the back for a zipper, then please do a few rounds / rows of plain sc / hdc or dc (i.e sc / hdc /dc in each st all through till end) before  starting on the 1st round of pattern.   In that case you may want to start with the fsc and not fdc.  Just a thought.
For a "how to"on both fsc and fdc, check the top of this blog.

Work the pattern in rounds.

Round 1 : dc in 1st 3 fdc ; 
*(ch 3, sk 2 fdc, dc in next fdc) ; rep from (to) once ; dc in next 5 fdc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.


 Round 2 : dc in 1st dc , 2 dc in next dc ; 
*(ch 3, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) once ; [dc in next 4 dc , 2 dc in next dc , dc in next dc]* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.


Round 3 : dc in 1st dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc ; 
*(ch 3, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) once ; 
[dc in next dc , dc in next 4 dc , 2 dc in next dc , dc in next dc]* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.



Round 4 : dc in 1st 4 dc ; 
*(ch 4, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) once ; dc in next 7 dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.


Round 5 : dc in 1st 2 dc , dc 2-tog in next 2 dc ; 
*ch 3, 4 dc in next dc ; ch 4, 4 dc in same dc ; 
ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in next 4 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc * ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.


Round 6 : dc in 1st dc, dc 2-tog over next 2 dc; 
*(ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc) ; ch 3, 4 dc in ch-4 sp ; rep from (to) once ; 
ch 4, sk 1st dc, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; sk next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.



Round 7 : (dc, ch 3, dc) in 1st dc ; ch 4, sk dc 4-tog , 
[2 dc in next dc] ; rep from [to] once ; 
ch 4, rep from [to] twice ; sk dc, dc 4-tog ;
*(dc, ch 3, dc) on next dc 4-tog ; ch 4, sk dc 4-tog , [2 dc in next dc] ; 
rep from [to] once ; ch 4, rep from [to] twice ; ch 4, sk dc, dc 4-tog* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.



Round 8 : (dc, ch 3, dc) in 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 4, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc ; 
ch 3,  4 dc in next ch-4 sp ; ch 3, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc ;
*ch 4, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc ; 
ch 3,  4 dc in next ch-4 sp ; ch 3, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.



Note : Rounds 7 & 8 give you this leaf-like pattern and in the following rounds, you will start the preparatory rounds for the 1st large pineapple pattern.  
Please measure your project now and see if you have sufficient length, as all we have here-on is that large pineapple and then a smaller one.  
If your length is sufficient, continue with Round 9, else may I suggest you do a few reps of Rounds 7 & 8 till to extend length.

Round 9 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, (2 dc in the next dc) ;
*ch 4, sk dc 4-tog, rep (to) twice ; ch 4, rep (to) twice ; 
ch 4, sk dc 4-tog, rep (to) once ; ch 3 , rep (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.


Round 10 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*ch 4, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc in ch-4 sp ; ch 4, dc 4-tog over next 4 dc ; 
ch 4, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; dc in the next dc*;
 rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.


Round 11 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; ch 3, (dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3 ; dc in same ch-sp) ; 
ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp ;
*ch 4, sk dc-4 tog, [2 dc in next dc] ; rep [to] once ; 
ch 4, rep [to] twice ; ch 4, sk dc-4 tog, 1 dc in the next ch-sp ; dc in next 3 dc ; 
ch 3, (dc in next ch-sp, ch 3 ; dc in same ch-sp); , ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp* ;  
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.


Round 12 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; ch 4, sk next dc , (dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3 , dc in same ch-sp); 
ch 4, sk next dc ;
* dc in the next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp ; ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; 
ch 4, 4 dc in next ch-sp ; ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; 
ch 4, 1 dc in next ch-sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
ch 4, sk next 2 dc , (dc in next ch-sp; ch 3 , dc in same ch-sp); ch 4, sk next 2 dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ; dc in next ch-sp, dc in next dc.  Join with sl-st to the next dc.



Round 13 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; ch 5, sk next dc and 1st ch-sp, 
(dc in next ch-sp ; ch 4 , dc in same ch-sp); ch 5, sk next 2 dc ;
* dc in the next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp ; ch 5, sk dc 4-tog , dc in next 4 dc ; 
ch 5, sk dc 4-tog , 1 dc in next ch-sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
ch 5, sk next 2 dc and 1st ch-sp , (dc in next ch-sp ; ch 4 , dc in same ch-sp); 
ch 5, sk next 2 dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ; 
dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 2 dc.  Join with sl-st to the next dc.



Note : Please take a quick look at the full pattern.  You’ll see that there is this first set of 4 dc – now as you’re adding one dc in the ch-sp just before and after, you are skipping one dc in this 4 dc set.. so you will eventually reach the 1st dc, which, per pattern, you’ve got to skip.. so you’re going to wonder where the ‘dc in 1st dc’ comes from (as you’ve got to skip that dc).. so what I’ve done is just turn my work, sl-st into the 2nd dc (which is then our 1st d), and then continue with pattern as written.  This will happen from this Round on – so please adjust accordingly.

Round 14 : dc in the 1st dc ; sk next dc , ch 5, 12 dc in next ch-sp ; 
ch 5 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp ;
*ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; ch 5, 1 dc in next ch-sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
ch 5, sk next 2 dc, 12 dc in next ch-sp ; ch 5 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp* ;  
rep from *to* till end ; dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 2 dc.  Join with sl-st to the next dc.



Round 15 : dc in the 1st dc ; sk next dc , ch 4, (dc in next dc , ch 1) ; 
rep from (to) 10 times ; dc in next dc ; 
ch 4 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp ; ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog
 *1 dc in next ch-sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 4, (dc in next dc , ch 1) ; 
rep from (to) 11 times ; dc in next dc ; 
ch 4 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ; 1 dc in next ch-sp ; ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 5, dc in next ch-sp, dc in next 2 dc.  Join with sl-st to the next dc.



Round 16 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 4, sk next 2 dc & ch-sp , (sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3) ; 
rep from (to) 9 times till last ch-1 sp ; 
ch 4 , [sk next dc , 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in next dc] ;
*2 dc in next ch-sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-sp ; rep [to] once ; 
ch 4, sk next dc , rep from (to) 10 times till last ch-1 sp ; ch 4 , rep from [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
2 dc in next ch-sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-sp ; rep [to] once.  
Join with sl-st to the next dc.



Round 17 : (starting from your new position in the ch-3 sp) : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; 
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; rep from (to) 8 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ; 
ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; rep from (to) 9 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once ; ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, rep from [to] once*; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 2 dc in last ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
(Using a ch 1 + hdc puts you  right in the middle of this ch-3 sp, and that's just where you need to be for the start of the next Round)



Round 18 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
rep from (to) 7 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ; 
{ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp} ; rep from {to} once ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; rep from (to) 8 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once ; rep from {to} 2 times ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
2 dc in last ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.



Round 19 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
rep from (to) 6 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ; 
{ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp} ; rep from {to} twice ; ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; rep from (to) 7 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once ; rep from {to} 3 times ; ch 3, rep from [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 2 dc in last ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.
Once again you are in the middle of the ch-3 sp and start right here.



Round 20 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
rep from (to) 5 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ; 
{ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp} ; rep from {to} three times ; ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; rep from (to) 6 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once ; rep from {to} 4 times ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 2 dc in last ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.




Round 21 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
rep from (to) 4 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
{ch 3, sc in 1st ch-sp ; sk next ch-3 sp, 8 dc in next ch-3 sp ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp} ; 
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
*ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, ) ; rep from (to) 5 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
rep from {to} once ; ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp]* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 2 dc in last ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.




Round 22 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
rep from (to) 3 times till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
*ch 3, {dc in next dc , ch 1} ; rep from {to} 5 times; dc in next dc ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once ; ch 3, rep from (to) 4 times ; ch 3, rep from [to] once*  ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 2 dc in last ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.



Round 23 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
rep from (to) 2 times till last ch-3 sp ; ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
* ch 4, {sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3} ; rep from {to} 5 times ; sc in next ch-1 sp ; 
ch 4, rep from [to] once ; ch 3, rep from (to) 3 times ; ch 3, rep from [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 2 dc in last ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.


Round 24 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
rep from (to) once till last ch-3 sp ; ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
*ch 4, {sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3} ; rep from {to} 5 times ; sc in next ch-1 sp ; 
ch 4, rep from [to] once ; ch 3, rep from (to) 2 times ; 
ch 3, rep from [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ;
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.


Round 25 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp  ; ch 4, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ; ch 3 , rep [to] once ;
* ch 4, rep from (to) 5 times ; sc in next ch-1 sp ; ch 4, rep from [to] once ; 
ch 3 , rep [to] once ; ch 4, rep from (to) once ; ch 4, rep from [to] once ; ch 3 , rep [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.


Round 26 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 4, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; 
ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ; ch 3 , sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, rep [to] once ;
*ch 4, rep from (to) 4 times ; sc in next ch-1 sp ; ch 4, rep from [to] once ; 
ch 3 , sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3 , rep [to] once ; ch 4, rep from (to) once ; 
ch 3 , sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, rep from [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.


Round 27 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; sk both ch 4-sps and sc, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; rep from (to) once ; ch 3, rep from [to] once ;
*ch 4, rep from (to) 3 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, rep from [to] once ; 
ch 3, rep from (to) 2 times ; ch 3 , rep [to] once ; sk both ch 4-sps and sc, rep [to] once ; 
ch 3, rep from (to) 2 times ; ch 3, rep from [to] once* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st dc.


Round 28 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp (i.e between the 2 dc’s) ; 
ch 3, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) ; rep from (to) 2 times ; ch 3, [2 dc in next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp] ;
*ch 4, rep from (to) 2 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, rep from [to] once ; 
ch 3, rep from (to) 7 times ; ch 3 , rep from [to] once*;  
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc and join to the 1st st.

Round 29  to end : Continue with the same pattern as above, reducing the pineapple as we did for the first large one.  You then can done one full Round of just ch 5’s all aRound.

As you’ll see from the chart attached, the designer has then done a Round of (dc, picot, dc) in each ch-5 sp all around.



I hope you’ve enjoyed making this lovely skirt.. and now agree with the title .. Oh my gawd, how beautiful is this !!
The full chart is given below.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

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