Saturday, 28 February 2015

SIMPLY SUPERB COWL

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SIMPLY SUPERB COWL


This cowl is not a new one – it’s a freely shared one by Moogly and it’s one that you will surely make again and again.. and this blog is proof of that. 
I’d made this lovely cowl for my daughter and on her return to India, her friend loved it so much she requested for one.  The yarn I’d used originally is way too warm for India, so I thought I’d use one of our locally available yarns.

The reason I am writing this all out is that I’ve found we are unable (sometimes) to visualize what a particular project will look like with locally available  yarns.  In India, we do not get all the yarns that are suggested on the pattern sheet(s), but this one made with our locally available Vardhaman Millenium shows us that hey! We can make this one too J

Materials used : Today I’ve used our Indian Vardhaman Millenium ; holding one strand each of grey and firozi (azure – blue) together for the whole project, with a 6.5 mm crochet hook. 

I’ve also made this with the multi-coloured self striped Lana Para Labores from Proezafavorita , which seems to be a medium bulky yarn (label does not specify anything about yarn ply sadly), with a 5.5 mm crochet hook, which I bought in Portugal. 
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : Length : 45”

Pattern :   I’ve used the Artfully Simple Infinity Scarf pattern by Tamara Kelly available at http://www.mooglyblog.com/artfully-simple-infinity-scarf/

However, I’d like to add a few of my notes to this.

As we’re using two skeins / strands of yarn through the pattern, its really simple to get nice large chains.  I have, however, made the chains even looser and larger (and tried to keep them even) so that the eventual finished product is really light and (as Tamara says in  her blog), the cowl loops , twists and turns really easily on its own.  Make this long enough to loop twice around the neck /  head of the recipient with a little spare .. and you're good to go. 

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 ..long enough to loop twice around the neck.. and see how the cowl loops , twists and turns really easily on its own
  
It is however, important to keep the work flat and ensure that the chains do not tangle, when you decide to take a break and put your work down.  Untangling this lovely long chained hammock-like project .. umm, not what you’d want to be wasting your time doing.

Finally, as always, I like the Chainless dc start. Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  

Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  
However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chain-less dc start. So I have used this lovely start for all dc row starting stitches.

The designer has used a nice button tie at one end – but I have decided make a tie-up finish at one end (over which one can embellish and then bring that bit to the front , or as I suggested to the recipient, keep behind the neck so that there is no hair tangling).

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So for this, after reaching the width needed, and fastening off, do not cut off yarn.  Just hold the end of the project together (i.e the start end where you will have some loose yarn that you can now neatly hide), and then pass the yarn ball over and around this start bit of cowl.  You’ll notice that it really scrunches up nicely – so depending on how tight you want this bit, increase tension – and continue wrapping till you have a rope-like finish.  Once done, cut off yarn , fasten off and then neatly pull the yarn through the centre of this rope bit.. so that you hide that end (so weave it into this rope like finish).. and c’est tout.. your project is done!

Right so off we go.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns.    J

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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Wednesday, 25 February 2015

STARRY PURSE

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STARRY PURSE


A few days back, I posted a photograph of a lovely creation that was inspired by a doily (which obviously, I then titled Doiley-like purse – link below).  And as I’d said even on that blog, someone shared a new pattern .. whichwas similar and yet so different – the star like pointed edges just made this one look great – and as you can see, I couldn’t hold back! This one just had to get made too .. so here we go

Of course, I’ve then had my bag unusually lined as well to give it this finished end product.
(For finishing .. if you are in India, do contact Mr. Suresh via text message on +91 91675 76825 or find him on his Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Suresh-Novelty-Craft-n-Thread-Store/764751610239578?fref=ts)

I've been inspired by  one of the wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  Using the pattern as basic inspiration, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 

Materials used : Polyester silk purse yarn in cones  ~one cone , with a 4 mm crochet hook for
General material info : Polyester silk yarn is available only in India.  However, you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project.

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made. In this pattern we’re using our dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                             fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                             ch : Chain
dc 4-tog : Double Crochet 4-together


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

We will be using a shell stitch here which will be [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc].

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 20 dc in that magic circle

To get a good finish and have your hook just where you want it at the last st, we will be using the ch 1 (or ch 2) and then hdc join.  However, if you like you can do the ch 3, and sl-st in the 1st st ending as well.
Round 2 : trc the 1st dc ; 
*ch 3, trc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
ch 1, hdc in the 1st dc. 
(By working this last combination of stitches, you are now, right in the centre of that last ch-3 sp and you will start right here.)

Round 3 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp * ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, dc in the 1st trc. 
(Once again, you are now, right in the centre of that last ch-5 sp)

Round 4 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; shell stitch in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ; 
 3 dc in that last ch-5 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 5 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 2 , sk next sc , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ;  
sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 6 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 3 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; 
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ;  
sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 7 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
*ch 3 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; 
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ;  
sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 8 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 4 dc ; 
*ch 4 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ; 
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 4 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ;  
sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 9 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 5 dc ; 
*ch 5 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 5 dc ; 
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 5 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ;  
sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 5 dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 10 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 6 dc ;
*ch 5 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 6 dc ; 
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 6 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 
sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 6 dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 11 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 7 dc ; 
*ch 6 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 7 dc ; 
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 7 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ;  
sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 7 dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 12 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 8 dc ; 
*ch 6 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 8 dc ; 
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 8 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ;  
sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 8 dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.

Round 13 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the next dc ; 
[ch 1 , sk next dc, dc in the next dc] ; 
rep [to]  2 times ; 
dc in next dc ; ch 3, sc in next ch-6 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 1, sk next dc , shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ;  (but in last shell, you’ll only do 3 dc and then ch 1, hdc in the last st).

Round 12 : 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*[dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc] ; 
rep [to] 2 times, dc in the next ch-1 sp  ; 
ch 8 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
shell stitch in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 8 dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
 sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 8 dc ; 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, hdc in the last st.


Fasten off then and weave in the ends

Finishing ideas
Fold the project / doily in half and sew along the sides.  Leave an opening along the top to affix your zipper or buttons.  Use the links below to work the finishing.
     
   a)     How to line the bag :View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
b)     When lining the bag if you use a different coloured lining (i.e not the same colour as the yarn you have used) it will give you a different and wonderful effect too.  Try it :)
c)      How to make a rounded cord for the handle :View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag.  http://vimeo.com/88972371
d)     How to make an I-cord : A neat way to make an I-cord in this video by June at http://www.planetjune.com/blog/how-to-crochet-an-i-cord/


Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Have a great day and see you soon. J

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