Sunday 21 June 2015

CYN-FULLY BEAUTIFUL TOP

 
CYN-FULLY BEAUTIFUL TOP

There’s a birthday coming up.. and what better gift than one hand made with love.  As I was going through the many pattern I have in my ‘to-do’ list, nothing seemed to grab me, and then this one was shared on my Facebook page.. oh how have we managed without the internet and social media, pray? 

Lovely as this pattern is, it’s taken quite a lot to write this down, and there are several bits where one has to ‘ad-lib’, so I’m putting this down as an Intermediate to Advanced skill level.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

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Difficulty level : Intermediate to advanced crochet skills

Materials used : Today I’ve used a light 3 ply acrylic yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Indians : This one would work really well with our Anchor knitting cotton or Red rose cotton and 3 mm crochet hook, or the Laura knitting cotton and a 4 mm crochet hook
General yarn information : You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project.  I’d suggest a light knitting cotton for summer and a light weight acrylic or wool for a winter project.

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                    
dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                     rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA 

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

“V” - stitch : V-st : (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Shell stitch : (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp


Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.  

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  
We start this lovely pineapple top from the neck and work down to the waist.  So this is a top down creation.

This pattern looks like it is going to be an easily alterable one for all sizes.. so work on the pattern repeat and customize it. 
The bottom part that snugly fits the waist is the one that got me smiling – love that flat fitted-ness of the base of this top. 
Depending on how flat the tummy is (of the person intended for this creation), you can increase or decrease the waist flat piece. 
Of course, this is just as I am looking at the pattern, and have not worked it out yet.. let’s work through together and see how this one unravels.

This pattern is worked in rounds, and as its pretty low along the neckline, it looks like it can be made without a back opening.
However, if you wish to have a small opening around the back for one single button, I’d suggest that when you work the border, you could work back and forth in rows and work that one button-hole slot in.

With this pattern, I’d urge you to use the fsc start, because on one side we’re going to work down our blouse / top, and then we’ll return to this fsc row / round to work the border. 
The fsc offers a good space on both sides for this purpose – so much better than a simple chain… so come on.. let’s all try this fsc start here.

Right.. so let’s get started.

The stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 18

Start with fsc and in multiples of 18 for the number of stitches you need to go around the neck. 
Keeping this fsc row flat and ensuring it doesn’t entangle, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(I’ve decided to go with ten repeats and have started accordingly. 
It looks like the designer has ten repeats as well. 
The number of repeats will only determine how ‘deep’ your neckline goes. 
I think it will work best if you settle for an even number of repeats, if you can)

Round 1 : V-st in the 1st fsc ; 
*ch 3, sk next 4 fsc , sc in the next fsc ;
ch 2, sk next 3 fsc , 5 dc in the next fsc ;
ch 2, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 4 fsc, V-st in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till end ;
(where you will just ch 3),
join with an sl-st to the 1st st. 
(remember the V-st has started this round).

These first two rounds are always the hardest.
Figuring out how many stitches you need, and then working that first round to completion.. but we’re over the worst now.. so let’s settle down and enjoy the rest of this creation now.

Round 2 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of the 1st V-st ;
V-st in the same 1st V-st ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next sc and ch-2 sp ;
[dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times] ;
ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp and sc ;
sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, V-st in the next V-st* ;
rep *to* till end;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of the 1st V-st ;
2 V-st in the same 1st V-st ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, [sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times] ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 V-sts in the next V-st * ; 
rep *to* till end,  
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of the 1st V-st ;
[V-st in the same 1st V-st ;
ch 1, V-st in the next V-st] ;
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of the 1st V-st ;
[V-st in the same 1st V-st ;
ch 1, V-st in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, V-st in the next V-st] ;
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3, rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of the 1st V-st ,
{V-st in the same 1st V-st ;
ch 1, [dc, ch 2, dc in the next V-st] ;
ch 1, V-st in the next V-st} ;
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep {to} once* ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Now we will start on our second pineapple, and at the same time, we’re doing to be adding one shell stitch before and after the pineapples. 
If you see, this far, we’ve had only one V-st.  I add this note here, as instructions are going to start getting lengthy with lots of brackets / parenthesis, so good if you can visualise what we’re doing as well. 
  
Round 7 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of the 1st V-st ,
{ shell stitch ; 6 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; shell stitch} ;
*ch 3, V-st in the next dc ;
ch 3, rep {to} once* ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of the 1st shell stitch, 
{ shell stitch in shell stitch ; dc in the next dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
shell stitch in shell stitch } ;
*ch 3, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of the shell stitch ; shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp between 2 dc ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch ;
ch 1, V-st in the same ch-1 sp } ; 
ch 3, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch ;
ch 1, V-st in the same ch-1 sp } ; 
ch 3, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] once ; 
ch 3, rep {to} once ;
ch 3, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep {to} once ; 
ch 3, (dc, ch 4, dc) in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
ch 1, 7 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 1, shell stitch in shell stitch* ;
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 14 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, V-st in the next dc ;
ch 3, rep {to} once ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 1, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 15 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch; 
*ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 2, shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-sp , sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 2, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 16 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-sp, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
ch 4, sk next ch-sp , sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ; 
ch 4, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 17 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-sp, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
ch 5, sk next ch-sp , sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 5, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 18 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-sp, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch ;
ch 5, sk next ch-sp , sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 5, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 19 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
*ch 3, sk next ch-sp, V-st in the next V-st ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch ; 
ch 5, sk next ch-sp , sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 5, shell stitch in shell stitch * ; 
rep *to* till end ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.


OK, this is great. 
We’ve now reached the section where we divide for our armholes. 

And here’s where we start working things a bit on our own.. the ‘ad-lib’ I’d mentioned at the start ..

So put your work down, and let’s see where we will place our four markers. 
As advised earlier, it is simpler to divide off if you’ve kept an even number of pineapples – so say we have 10 pineapples, four each define the back and the fronts of our top, and one each define the sleeves.
So place markers on either ends of the fourth markers for the front and back each.  We will be dividing one stitch before the top of the pineapple (so in the V-sts).

Now here’s where the chart gets a little hazy, because on the chart the designer has not indicated how many (if at all) stitches to keep between the fronts and backs under the armhole. 
So here’s what I suggest.  Mark off these sections and see if the top fits around the chest and arm/ armhole of the intended. 
IF it does, then you continue with the last bit of the top per instructions below. 
If it doesn’t, then I suggest we add ch (in the pattern repeat count of 14)

We will continue to work in rounds, and in the ch-sp kept for the armhole, we will work one pattern repeat per 14 ch.  
One pattern rep for this round will be (one V-st ; 1 shell stitch in shell stitch ; one set of 9 dc , one shell stitch in shell stitch and one more V-st). 

Now depending on how many chs you have kept for your armhole, work this pattern set. 
Remember that you may end or start the round before the armhole ch-sp with a V-st, so ensure that you do not duplicate any sts in this combination, and end with the correct st to continue on the round.  



Round 20 : sl-st into the ch-1 sp of shell stitch , shell stitch in shell stitch ;
* ch 1, 9 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 1, shell stitch in shell stitch ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, V-st in the next dc ;
ch 3, shell stitch in shell stitch * ;
rep *to* till the ch-sp (for the armhole) ;
work the pattern rep as above in the ch-sps you’ve kept for the armhole(s) and continue with the pattern *to* till end  ;
join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Now before you carry on with the pattern, please check that the round you’ve just made equals the bust size you’re making. 
If not, please go back and tweak the pattern repeat in the armhole area.

I am sure by now you have figured out our pattern rep for the pineapple pattern.  
So working along the lines of our pattern repeat of (Rounds 14-19 followed by Rounds 12 and 13) , we’ll work our pineapple patterns. 
The only difference is that in Round 13, as we have 7 dc in that ch-4 sp, but from here on we have 9 dc in the same ch-4 sp. 
I am sure you can figure out how to work this change though.

The number of pineapple pattern repeats you make will depend on how long you want your top.

The last bit of our pattern is made up entirely of {shell stitch in shell stitch ; ch 1, shell stitch in next shell stitch} and once again we’re going to work this bit on our own.  
Now what I’ve done is see if that last round I’ve made is loose/ tight enough for the person intended, and then worked my shell stitch in shell stitch accordingly – but basically, we will work {to} in each shell stitch ;
V-st and dc all around.
In the “fanned” section of the pattern (i.e the [dc, ch 1, dc part that leads to the next pineappley bit), I’d suggest you work three {to} pattern bits.

However, IF you think that the last round of pineapples has made the base of your top too loose around the waist of your intended, I’d suggest that you can tweak the number of shell stitches here, such that you ‘decrease’ the round.

We will work a total of 12-15 rounds in all shell stitch (as per the photograph of the designer’s creation) OR as long as you want your top to be.

  
Finishing : Great so we’re nearly done with our superb top. 
The finishing goes all around the armhole, and it’s a simple (sc ; ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st). 
Now the sts that you skip will determine how ‘loose’ and ‘large’ that armhole opening is.. so if you want a tighter armhole opening, sk more stitches.


Rounds 2 and 3 will be (sc in the ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp). 

Do these three rounds around the neckline as well for a lovely neat and similar finish.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! 

Fasten off and weave in ends.  Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

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Have a great day and see you soon. 

I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  

























































Here are some of my bolero creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too