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Friday, 3 July 2015

CLIP ON MOCK CAMISOLE

CLIP ON MOCK CAMISOLE

My sister in law saw my Kurti or Kurta Yoke pattern and gave me this idea.  I am sure this is going to be a big hit as it’s a great must-make idea.   Thank you Shantha. 

So how often do you find that ‘oh so lovely’ tee shirt or top, and then wonder if you can wear it because it is a bit too low and revealing?  And then need to wait forever till we can find ‘just that right cami’ to add the right blend of modesty as well as pizzazz? J

No more waiting.. We’ll make this little camisole top bit, and then attach it onto the bra strap – neat, don’t you agree?  

Yes, Of course I know this is not my original  idea – the strapping to the bra bit – but using this pattern to make that mock camisole, come on.. give me that! J

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.
Materials used : Today I’ve used our Indian Red Rose cotton yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fdc : Foundation double crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                 ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                                rep : Repeat

 Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

HOW TO PICOT : Picot : (sc, ch 3, sl-st in same sc) all in the same st or ch-sp. 
Pl view instructions at
for a refresher of what a picot is.

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

So unlike most of the other patterns, we don’t really need a “Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today” – let’s just dive straight in.  

Start : with fdc in multiples of 13 + 2, depending on how many diamonds you want for your camisole.  Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st 2 fdc ; (ch 1, sk next fdc, dc in the next fdc) ; 
*dc in the next 10 fdc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last fdc ; dc in the last fdc.  Turn.

Row 2 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 7, sk next ch-sp and 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
*dc in the next 8 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-7 sp) ; *ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 7 dc ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  ch 3, sc in the next ch-7 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 5 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 7 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 5 sc) ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till last sc ;  ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 3 sc) ; *ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ;  dc in the next ch-3 sp; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till last sc ;  ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 9 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 5 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc) ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 5 dc ;  dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till last sc ;  
ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 5 dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 10 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*sk next sc and 1st ch-3 sps, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 7 dc ;  dc in the next ch-3 sp* ; rep *to* till last sc ;  sk next sc and both ch-3 sps ; dc in the next 7 dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Rows 1-10 form one pattern repeat.  In case you are happy with the height of this yoke, great.. ignore Row 11 instruction and carry on to finishing instructions please.
If you wish to increase the yoke for a further pattern repeat, please do Row 11 first and then see the pattern repeat instructions.

Row 11 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; 
(ch 7, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
*dc in the next 6 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 12 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 8 dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-7 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 5 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sc in the next ch-7 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, dc till the last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 13 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; (ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; *ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, sc till the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc till the last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 14 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, dc till the last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 15 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; (ch 3, sk next dc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; *ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, dc till the last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

This length / height should definitely suffice, so we’ll end here.  Now as we have a dc + sc ending top row, you could either do a row of sc / hdc all around and end off with the finishing instructions below, OR you could also do a row of picot on the top, and then work the two side strips for attaching onto the bra.




Finishing : So once you’re happy with the height achieved, I thought a line of hdc or sc all around would be a good finish.  So before you fasten off, do a neat row all around – so that’s around the top and sides – just adding that little bit more for the sides so that it won’t peep through the “V” of the top or tee shirt.  You could also add a row of picot on the top edge of this yoke.  Read instructions on how to picot at the top of this blog.

Now another thing that we need to do is attach a button strip to the top of this mock camisole.  So here’s two ways you can do that.




Option 1 :
Work a fdc chain for the length needed to attach the top of your mock camisole to your bra strap.  SO for this, you will need to measure this camisole yoke and work this as there is no formula or specific sizing chart.
Fasten the end off leaving a tail to sew in.  Sew in this end to the top end of your camisole.  You will then attach a button to the other end of this fdc chain in such a way that you are able to loop around your bra strap.
Repeat this for the other end as well.

Option 2 :
While working that last finishing row of sc or fdc around the top edge or your yoke, when you reach the last dc (corner dc) make a long chain that will equal the length needed to attach to your bra strap.  You will then turn 90˚ and work hdc or sc in each ch all the way back on this chain just made , back to that corner dc ; thus having made your first bra strap attachment.
You will then continue down and around the camisole yoke till you reach the other side top corner dc and repeat the instructions for making that second strap.
So this option gives you a few less ends to weave in , but is a bit more complicated. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.  Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own bolero / vest /  top.  Thanks.


Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have another yoke made - of a different kind, and here's that link  J