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Sunday, 6 December 2015

SHELLED CROPPED TOP


SHELLED CROPPED TOP

A friend chose this top from a Pinterest link, and of course, as all new ideas are a challenge for me.. so I happily took it on. 
As usual, as I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. The original pattern is all lacy, but I've decided to change this just a bit.



Materials used : Today I’ve used an lovely 100% Indian Anchor knitting cotton  yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Skill level :  Intermediate to Advanced
While the pattern itself is pretty easy to follow and can be attempted by persons used to an Easy skill level, there is a lot that’s left to your creativity and knowledge.  That said, do come along, it’s not that scary.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                                      rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

 Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

How to do a picot stitch : A quick look at this self-explanatory link on a “how-to” for picot edgings.


So as usual, before we start, a quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  This is a lovely pattern starts at the hemline or base of the top, and then we work our way up to the neck and shoulders.  There is no shaping for the armhole, as we will just straighten out after the pattern (just under bust) and go straight on up to the top. 

One tip : I know that sizing and calculations thereof are pretty worrisome.  So what I usually do is try to keep a template ( a top that fits the intended) in hand, and I check against the size(s) there to ensure that I am keeping to the straight and narrow J

Now here’s the twist in this pattern.  This is a cropped top, which means that it is (a) not a fitting one (well, at least not around the waist / midriff area and (b) It is short.  So if you’re making this project then, remember that your first start row needs to be looser than your round waist measurement.
However, one can also use this pattern for a longer and slightly fitted top – as there’s a pattern repeat given .. so let’s get our creative caps on and have fun.

Now our top is going to be worked in three parts.  I am not going with this pattern in full.  I am going to take the bottom parts of this pattern, and then make the top a plain dc yoked one. 
That said, once you get the pattern going, you can decide how you want to make this one for yourself.

So if you’re doing it my way, we’ve got Part 1 starting at about 3” (I think) from the bottom of the top and working our way up to the shoulders.  Once we reach the neckline part, we will work on Part 2, which is the plain dc yoke.
Part 3 is the lovely shelled border which we will do from the same fdc row that starts Part 1, but working away from shoulders.

I’m going to work in two parts for the lower part of the top and then working it in rounds when we’re working the border.

Right then, so get to it. J

Our pattern repeat is 12 + 1.

Start with fsc in multiples of 12 till you have a fdc chain that is slightly more than half the round waist of the person you’re making this for.

So right from the word “GO”, we’re going to use our picot stitch.  We will use the 3-ch picot here which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch).

Row 1 : sc in 1st fsc ; ch 3, sk next 2 fsc , dc in the next fsc ; *ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc + picot in the next fsc ; ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc ; ch 3, sk next 2 fsc , sc in the next fsc ; ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we will start with our “V”-st, which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 2 : [dc ; ch 1, 2 dc] all in 1st sc ; *(sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 5, sk next picot, rep (to) once ; “V”-st in the next sc* ; rep *to* till the last sc ; {2 dc ; ch 1, dc} all in the last sc.  Turn.

In this row, we will be working mainly in our ch-5 and ch-1 sps (of the “V” st)

Row 3 : sc in 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc and 1 sc , dc in the next sc ; *ch 3, sk next  sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next sc and 2 dc , sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc and sc, dc in the next sc* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 3, (sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; *“V”-st in the next sc ; rep (to) once ; ch 5, sk next sc + picot, rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till the last sc ; ch 3, dc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 5 : sc in 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next sc , dc in the next sc ; *ch 3, sk next sc and 2 dc, sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc and sc, dc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next sc* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 3, sc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : [dc ; ch 1, 2 dc] all in 1st sc ; *(sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; ch 5, sk next picot, rep (to) once ; “V”-st in the next sc* ; rep *to* till the last sc ; {2 dc ; ch 1, dc} all in the last sc.  Turn.

And that’s our repeat complete. Our pattern repeat for this part is from Rows 3 – 6.  You will see that our “V”-st and picots alternate, so you get that right, and your pattern is right.

Rep Rows 3 – 6 till your project reaches just under the armhole, ending with  Row 4 or 6 (one of the non-picot rows)

So Part 1 (this part) is the ‘centre’ of your top ; and then there will be this little border and then the yoke bit.  So work this part till you’ve reached the yoke.

We’ll meet back in a bit and do the yoke together.




Part 2 : Yoke

You’ve reached your armhole level,  we will do a row of dc’s all through, and we need to ensure that you once again have the same number of stitches as that 1st foundation row you started with. 

Next row : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in each dc all the way till the end.  Turn. 

Repeat the above row till you reach the armhole.
We will then increase stitches each end for a small sleeve.

Increase row : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in each dc all the way till the last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Rep Increase row four times.
We’ve now got a lovely little sleeve, so we will stop increases and just allow our project to ‘grow’ a little till we reach the neck level.

Next row : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all the way till the end.  Turn.

Continue without increase till you reach the neck level you desire. 


Continue without increase till you reach the base of neck level you desire. 

Measurement for neck :
So I’ve folded my project in half at the neckline, and then marked off a centre neck opening.  I then placed markers at the two points that mark the side extremities of the neckline.

Neckline decrease row : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all the way till 3 sts before the 1st marker ; dc 3-tog in the last 3 sts.  Turn.
This dc 3-tog ensures we get a neat curve to the edge of our neck, and a quick look at how to do the dc 3-tog given below.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

Next row : dc 2-tog over  in the 1st 2 st and each dc till end.  Turn.

Next row : dc in the 1st dc and each dc till end.  Turn.

Rep the above row till your project reaches the shoulder.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach yarn for the other side of the top. Repeat the decrease row and  last 2 rows to match the other side of your project.  Fasten off and weave in ends.




Part 3 : Border

I am not sure what the border repeat is per chart, but I’m going to work it with the same repeat of 12 for uniformity (with the body of our top).
If you want this as a frilly border, then I’d suggest you use a repeat of 6.  That said, for adults, a frilly border for a top like this may not work.

For our border, we will go back to that fsc foundation row, and work from the other side of the same sts.


So re-attach your yarn at one end and let’s start.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; ch 4, sk next 4 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 4, sk next 5 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
*ch 4, sk next 5 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 4, sk next 5 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In this row, we’ll work our dc 2-tog over 2 different stitches or ch-sps.
Row 2 : dc 2-tog over the 1st sc and the next ch-4 sp ; dc in the next ch-2 sp ; (ch 1, dc in the same ch-2 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; *ch 3, [dc 2-tog over the next two ch-4 sps] ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-2 sp ; rep (to) 5 times* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In this row, we’ll work our dc 3-tog.
Row 3 : sc in the 1st sc ; dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 2, sc in the next dc 2-tog ; *ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 4 times ; ch 2, sc in the next dc 2-tog * ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; *ch 3, sk next two ch-2 sps, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) 3 times* ; rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ; ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
* ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, rep (to) once ; ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp * ; rep *to* till end ; ch 4, sc in the last dc.  Turn.

We’ve completed one pattern repeat.

Our pattern repeat for this border will be Rows 2 – 5.  Repeat this two times, ending with Row 2.
In our last row, we’ll use our decorative picot stitch.  Our picot is a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch).

Last Row : sc in the 1st st ; dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; (ch 1 + picot + ch 1 and dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 2, sc in the next dc 2-tog ; *ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 4 times ; ch 2, sc in the next dc 2-tog * ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

We have now finished one side of your project.

Rep all instructions for the other side of the project.

In the last row though, do not fasten off but leave a long tail to join the back and front of your project.

Fasten the sides of your project and weave in ends.





Finishing :
For a neat finish, I’d suggest you run a round of sc all around the neckline and armholes, and if you feel like it, maybe do a round of picot as well J

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

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