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Friday, 30 January 2015

DOILEY-LIKE PURSE



DOILEY-LIKE PURSE

A friend wanted a bag for an upcoming event.. so this couldn’t have been more perfect a timing for me!  This beauty has been on my long list of ‘bags-to-do’ for a while now.. and I’m pretty sure that as I’m whipping this one out, someone is going to share yet another beautiful pattern .. and tempt me yet again !! But I love it.. the temptation.. falling into the trap of it.. creating something beautiful and writing out yet another pattern.. so no complaints there.

And looks like you enjoy it all too.. as here we are .. once again !

Now what I’ve done here is make the same bag with two different yarns – both are the polyester (silk) yarns, but one is of a 3-4 ply thickness and the second one is made in the finer cobweb ply yarn.  Isn’t it exciting how the same pattern looks so different with different yarns?
Of course, I’ve then had my bag unusually lined as well to give it this finished end product.
(For finishing in India, do contact Mr. Suresh via text message on +91 91675 76825 or find him on his Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Suresh-Novelty-Craft-n-Thread-Store/764751610239578?fref=ts)

I’ve  got a few more beautiful and unusual bag / purse patterns already written – so let me add a few links here for your easy reference.











This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  Using the pattern as basic inspiration, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. J


Materials used : Polyester silk purse yarn in cones  : (a - gold bag photo on left top) ~one cone , with a 2 mm crochet hook for the lighter yarn, and (b - gold bag photo right top) ~one cone with a 4mm crochet hook for the slightly heavier purse yarn.

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made. In this pattern we’re using our dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                              sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                     sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                            ch : Chain
dc 4-tog : Double Crochet 4-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Start with a magic circle and 8 sc in that magic circle

Round 1 : dc the 1st ch ; *ch 3, dc in the next sc* ; rep *to* 6 times ; ch 3, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc 4-tog in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp * ; rep *to* 6 times ; ch 5, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; 6 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; sk dc 4-tog , 6 dc in the next ch-5 sp , and every ch-5 sp till end ; ch 5, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; dc in the next dc ; *dc in the next dc ; (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; dc in the next dc* ;  rep *to* till end , join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; dc in the next dc ; *ch 1, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 1, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : dc in the 1st dc ; (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 6 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; dc in the
next dc ; *ch 1, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 1, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in next 8 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; dc in the
next dc ; *ch 1, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 1, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 13 dc ; *ch 2, dc in the next 14 dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 13 dc ; *ch 3, dc in the next 14 dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 3, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 13 dc ; *ch 5, dc in the next 14 dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 5, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 8 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ; ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 6 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; *ch 2, [dc in the next dc ; 4 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;  ch 2, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ; ch 2, rep [to] once ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 4 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, {dc in the next dc ; [2 dc in the next dc] ; rep[to] 3 times ; dc in the next dc} ;  ch 2, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ; ch 2, rep {to} once ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 14 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; (dc 2-tog over  the next 2  dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, dc in next dc ; [2 dc in next 2 dc ; dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in next 2 dc] ; dc in next dc ; ch 2, dc in next dc ; rep (to) once* ; ch 2, rep {to} once ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 15 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 2, dc in next dc ; {[2 dc in next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] once ; dc in next 2 dc ; rep [to] twice ; dc in the next dc} ; ch 2, dc in next dc ; rep (to) once* ; ch 2, rep {to} once ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 16 : Decrease row : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 2, dc in next dc ; {2 dc in next  dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; 2 dc in next dc ; dc in next 2 dc ; 2 dc in next dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; 2 dc in next dc ; dc in next dc} ; ch 2, dc in next dc ; rep (to) once* ; ch 2, rep {to} once ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 17 : Decrease row : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ; 
*ch 2, [dc in next 7 dc ; ch 2] ; rep [to] 3 times ; rep (to) 2 times* ; rep *to* till end ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 18 : sl-st into the ch-2 sp ; [dc in next 7 dc ; ch 2] ; rep [to] till end ; join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 19 - 20 : Rep Round 18




Fasten off then and weave in the ends

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  
I’d also appreciate if you could credit this blog (or the link that you use) when you complete your project.


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Wednesday, 28 January 2015

JUS' GRANNY SQUARES


 
GRANNY SQUARES FOR PROJECT CHEMO

A few days back, Prabha told me about this lovely project for cancer patients and once I read this, I knew I wanted to be a part of it.  http://www.projectchemocrochet.com/

So I went a-hunting for all those square patterns I had on my to-do list.  As I was slowly plodding through them, I got another friend also interested in this project, and she wanted ideas to work on.. so I thought I’d just compile all the links / patterns I’ve used. so here goes.    

Now for this project we need to make all our squares 9" x 9", but some of the links / patterns below are smaller sized - so all I did was work the pattern till end, and to make up the square to size, just did a few rows of dc all around.

Materials used : Indian acrylic yarns (3-ply, 4-ply as well as Vardhaman Millenium DK ply)












and here are a load of ideas on this lovely blog link.. 








and this one I found as a pattern for a clutch.. but loved it so much.. so here goes 

http://priscillascrochet.net/free%20patterns/Pillowghans/Pineapple%20Granny%20Pillow-ghan%20Square.pdf  

and finally just played with the alphabet to make this one here.
P for Perseverence, Patience, and Perseverence 
so here's a lovely link for alphabets http://www.mooglyblog.com/the-moogly-crochet-alphabet/

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  


Have a great day and see you soon. J


Sunday, 25 January 2015

TWO LOVELY BELTS

HEART BELT  

Valentines day coming up.. all these heart shapes being shown everywhere.. so it’s only natural that I too whip up one lovely creation, just right in time.

I was inspired by this cute heart pattern from a you-tube link for the heart belt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9cF8jTZ53c
And then I added a small something to it.. here’s my write up for it.

I’ve also made the Celtic knot belt – that has been on my to-do list for oh! So long.. and my notes for that are here as well.

So two lovely belts that can be whipped out pretty quickly – a lovely gift for someone you love.

I have a few more belts already written out, so here’s a quick dekho at those links too



Materials used (for heart belt) : Polyester silk purse yarn in cones  ~ one cone , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

Materials used (for celtic knot belt) : Polyester silk purse yarn in cones  ~ 1.5 cone , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

Stitches used :
Picot : The picot we use here will be the 3 ch picot – so ch 3 and then sl-st into the 1st ch (of the ch-3 just made).  We will used this as a decorative stitch along the edges of our heart belt.  To refresh your memory on how to do a picot, do visit this link :

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                              sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                     sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                            ch : Chain
trc : Treble / Triple crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

I made my row of hearts using the lovely continuous method shown so well in that video.
Once  you’ve done your row of hearts, here’s when we can change this into a belt, with an edging.

You can either leave it as it is and then attach a button on one end of your belt, and the little hole (in the centre of each heart) can serve as the button hole for your button, OR you can make the edging I’m making to keep the twisty turny hearts a little more stable.

Assuming you’re coming along with me, here’s what we’ll do for the edging.

Edging :
Once you’ve reached the length needed for your belt, we will do a row of chain that will go all around the belt.  So before I plunge off into the instructions, let’s see what we’re going to do.  To ‘stiffen’ our belt, we’re going to have a row of chain to start with – and our chain row will start at the end you’ve finished, go through to the 1st st, and then around to the other side of the belt to come back to this point.  We will also use 3 of the trc sts from our heart (we have 6 trc’s in each side of our heart.. so we’ll sk the 1st and use the next 3 in each side). 

We will work in a round from here for our border / edging.
  
Right, so you’ve ended at the sl-st at the top of the last heart, so ch 5 and sk all sts in between, and the 1st trc, sc in the next 3 trc ; *ch 5, sk all the sts in this heart, and the 1st trc in the next heart, sc in the next 3 trc* ; rep *to* till you reach the other end of your belt ; ch 5, sk all the sts in this last heart, sc in the dc (that is the centre st of that last heart) ; ch 5, sk all sts and the 1st trc on the opposite end and sc in the next 3 trc ; rep *to* all the way to the end again ; ch 5, sl-st in the 1st st. 


For the 2nd and final row of our border, we’ll do a round of picots.  So we’ll do one picot in the middle sc and then one picot in the middle of the ch-5 sp all around.  To get the corners nice and squared off, we will do 3 sts plus one picot each end.  Depending on how thick you want this border, use an sc, hdc or dc.. I will, however, give instructions using sc only.
So lets start off..

Picot in that 1st st ; sc in the next 2 ch ; (2 sc ; 1 picot ; 1 sc) in the next st [which marks one corner] ; *sc in the next 2 ch and next sc ; sc + picot in the next sc ; sc in the next sc and 2 ch, sc + picot in the next ch* ; rep from *to* till the end, then at the next corner rep (to) all the way around till you’ve reached the 1st st.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.


Fasten off then and weave in the ends.  Attach a button on one end, (ensuring that the button goes easily through the hole in the centre of your hearts) and we’re done!!

Now off you go to find just that right outfit to showcase your lastest creation!




CELTIC KNOT BELT



The Celtic knot is fascinating – looks oh, so difficult, but it isn’t.. well, it’s not that bad.. and it looks so lovely.  The small difficultly here is that instead of working with just one yarn, this lovely pattern uses two cords at one time.  That said, it’s well worth the trouble of pinning it all down and getting it done for this superb end result.

So this is a free pattern courtesy Red heart at http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/celtic-knot-belt

I’ve used our (Indian) polyester purse yarn (which is a 4-ply yarn).

The only difference I made was instead of doing a row of ch and then doubling back over it with sc’s, I did one single row of Foundation Half Double Crochet (fHdc) stitches.  There is a superb Moogly video link for this at http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-half-double-crochet/
Now if you’ve done either an fsc or an fdc start, you’ll have absolutely no problem with this one.  If you haven’t tried any of those, you’re going to enjoy this and never go back to the regular chain start !

So the four cords are made really easily with the fHdc start, and then following the pattern sheet, you get the knot done and then the finishing.

As I wanted this to be adjustable for different waist sizes (rather than a fixed one with a button), I have opted to do another fHdc chain at the end of the closure tab(s) so that the wearer can neatly tie this up behind the back.

So once again, choices for you.  Have fun.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience), and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  



Have a great day and see you soon. J