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Saturday, 31 October 2015

TEA LIGHT HOLDER 2


TEA LIGHT HOLDER 2


Navratri is a festival of nine nights https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navratri when we ladies get a chance to show off our craft and decorative skills, have friends and family come home and enjoy some different foods.  This is closely followed by Diwali, our festival of lights https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diwali

During both these festivals, we decorate our homes with lights.  In the old days, we used mud lamps – now with the advent of tea lights and candles, these are the simpler, easier, and cleaner lamps that we use.

In my earlier blog I wrote about how my friend Prabha had tested this tea light candle holder, using a regular tea light candle and reading that my dear (lawful.. well, she married my brother, so .. J) sister sent me the link for these lovely battery operated flameless candles, which I thought I should add here, just in case.  
Thanks so much dear Anu for taking the trouble to check this out for me. 

While I was working on my varied tea light holders, someone in another crochet group shared a photograph of a tea light candle holder that looked something like this.... and I thought I’d experiment and see what I’d get.

This is my second creation for tea light holders.  
J

Materials used : Indian Polyester yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook.

Difficulty level : Intermediate  to advanced skill level

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                    sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                       sp : Space                                 
sl-st : Slip stitch                                              ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                              hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                               MC : Main Colour
CC : Contrast Colour                    Sc-blo : Single crochet back loop only

Stitches used :  (Using U.S terminology)

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


So before we jump into the pattern, let’s see what we’re going to do here.
This is a pretty straight forward pattern.  We start with a magic circle and the base of our little holder, and work till we get a round base that we’re happy with… i.e the size of the tea light candle holder we’re going to put inside.  Ensure that the round we’re making here is a little larger than the tea light, to prevent the flame from jumping out and creating a fire hazard.

We will then continue to create the top and sides of our little container holder.  This part is the constant for all our tea light holders.

As we turn to work the sides of our holder, we will be working one round in back loops only. 
Very conveniently, the other loop (i.e un-used front loop) will be the one we will re-attach our yarn onto to work the lower round portion of our tea light decoration.

Easy enough, right? So let’s move on..

Instructions :  (Using U.S terminology)

 Our pattern repeat is 6 (if you want six spokes. If you want eight spokes, start with a magic circle and 8 hdc in that circle)

Start with a magic circle and 6 hdc in that circle.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  Pull lightly to close.

Base Round 1 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc and each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Base Round 2 : hdc in the 1st hdc  ; 2 hdc in the next hdc ; * hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc * ; rep *to* all the way around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

To create a nice rim, and a deciding line where we can attach the rest of our pattern to, let’s work one round in single crochet, using back loops only or sc-blo.

Base Round 3 : sc-blo in the 1st hdc and each hdc till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We will now work one round without increase that will work the sides of our tea light holder.

Side Round 4 : hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all the way around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

For regular tea light holders, just Side Round 4 should suffice.

However, depending on how high you want the sides for your lamp holder, continue without any increase till you have the height you are happy with.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
We’ve completed the little ‘basket-like’ portion of our tea light holder.  This is where we’ll place our little tea light.

We will now work on the decorative or floral part of our holder.  So we need to go back to that sc-blo row, and re-attach our yarn. 
We will now be working in the front loops of that sc, and our instruction for that first round, will just read work in sc.

For convenience, I have termed earlier rounds as Base and Side.  These instructions will just be numbered Round 1.. etc.

Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ; *ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* in each sc till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; 
*(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We will use our decorative picot stitch in this round, so do check the video out for a how-to.  Our picot is a (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st st).

Round 3 : sc + picot in the 1st dc ; 
*{ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-3 sp ; (hdc, dc, trc + picot , dc, hdc, sc + picot) all in the same ch-3 sp} ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sc + picot in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Using this pattern, I have made two projects, and they are slightly differently sized, due to the thickness of the thread / yarn.  So I’m going to experiment yet again to see if I can increase the diameter in that last round.

All that said, these are still absolutely stunning little tea light candle holders.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  


Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have made one other tea light holder that I posted yesterday




Friday, 30 October 2015

TEA LIGHT HOLDER 1


TEA LIGHT HOLDER 1

Navratri is a festival of nine nights https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navratri when we ladies get a chance to show off our craft and decorative skills, have friends and family come home and enjoy some different foods.  

This is closely followed by Diwali, our festival of lights https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diwali

During both these festivals, we decorate our homes with lights.  In the old days, we used mud lamps – now with the advent of tea lights and candles, these are the simpler, easier, and cleaner lamps that we use.

I was worried about the inflammability of the tea light holder and warned my friend Prabha (also a brillaint crocheter), who had made one.  She took the trouble of lighting the tea light candle till it totally burned down, ensuring that it did not burn the yarn or even heat it up - which then kick-started me on my tea light holder journey. Thank you so much, Prabha, for taking the trouble and going that extra mile for safety.
She sourced these lovely inner tea light protectors, that make this that much safer.
Visit Prabha at https://www.facebook.com/prabha.nc?ref=ts&fref=ts


This is the first of some of my creations for tea light holders.  J

Materials used : Indian Polyester yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook.

Difficulty level : Intermediate  to advanced skill level

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                       sp : Space                                 
sl-st : Slip stitch                                              ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                              hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                               MC : Main Colour
CC : Contrast Colour                                     Trc 2-tog : Triple crochet 2-together
Sc-blo : Single crochet back loop only
Tr-tr : Triple Treble crochet

Stitches used :  (Using U.S terminology)

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Chainless Treble crochet : A really lovely way to start a row of stitches without the ch 3 / ch 4 start.. this is the chainless treble crochet.  This unique way of starting makes your project even - in a way that needs to be seen for you to agree with me.  Do visit the self explanatory link to learn this fascinating new start. 
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-3 or ch-4 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Triple or treble crochet 2-together stitch : In most cases, a 2-together stitch is a decrease stitch.  We will not be decreasing here, but using this stitch anyway.


So before we jump into the pattern, let’s see what we’re going to do here.
This is a pretty straight forward pattern.  We start with a magic circle and the base of our little holder, and work till we get a round base that we’re happy with… i.e the size of the tea light candle holder we’re going to put inside.  Ensure that the round we’re making here is a little larger than the tea light, to prevent the flame from jumping out and creating a fire hazard.

We will then continue to create the top and sides of our little container holder.  This part is the constant for all our tea light holders.

As we turn to work the sides of our holder, we will be working one round in back loops only. 
Very conveniently, the other loop (i.e un-used front loop) will be the one we will re-attach our yarn onto to work the lower round portion of our tea light decoration.

Easy enough, right? So let’s move on..

Instructions :   (Using U.S terminology)

For this pattern, I’ve used the chart found on a Pinterest board and adapted it to make a tea light holder

I really like this particular pattern as it reminds me of a rangoli or kolam https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rangoli

A rangoli or kolam is a design that we make on our floors during all festivals and auspicious occasions – and this one in particular, looks like one we used to make as kids.

Our pattern repeat is 6.

Start with a magic circle and 6 hdc in that circle.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  Pull lightly to close.

Base Round 1 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc and each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Base Round 2 : hdc in the 1st hdc  ; 2 hdc in the next hdc ; * hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc * ; rep *to* all the way around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

To create a nice rim, and a deciding line where we can attach the rest of our pattern to, let’s work one round in single crochet, using back loops only or sc-blo.

Base Round 3 : sc-blo in the 1st hdc and each hdc till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We will now work one round without increase that will work the sides of our tea light holder.

Side Round 4 : hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all the way around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

For regular tea light holders, just Side Round 4 should suffice.

However, depending on how high you want the sides for your lamp holder, continue without any increase till you have the height you are happy with.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
We’ve completed the little ‘basket-like’ portion of our tea light holder.  This is where we’ll place our little tea light.

We will now work on the decorative or floral part of our holder.  So we need to go back to that sc-blo row, and re-attach our yarn. 
We will now be working in the front loops of that sc, and our instruction for that first round, will just read work in sc.

For convenience, I have termed earlier rounds as Base and Side.  These instructions will just be numbered Round 1.. etc.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st sc ; *ch 1, dc in the next sc* ; rep *to* in each sc till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sc in the 1st dc  ; *sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next dc* ; rep *to* all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following row, we’ll use the long triple treble stitch (tr-tr), as well as the treble 2-tog stitch (trc 2-tog), so do take a look at the video link given above.

We will also be working each little ‘leaf-like’ pattern in one smooth motion.

1.       We will first do a trc 2-together (regular treble) stitches, and then work one special triple treble stitch.  We will finally work our little leaf like pattern on this triple treble stitch, completing one leaf-like shape, before moving on to the next set.
2.     Our trc 2-tog is worked over four stitches ; which means that you work the 1st part of the trc in 1 st, sk the next 3 sts and then work the 2nd part of the trc in the next st. So in between the two legs of our trc 2-tog, there should be 3 sts.
3.     To complete each leaf, we will work back and forth on the tr-tr we’ve created for three rows. 
4.     After completion of that first leaf, we will  go back to that same sc of Round 2, to work the 2 trc and one tr-tr for the next leaf.
5.     We will work similarly for all the six little leaves that decorate this little pattern.

Round 3 : Part A : trc 2-tog over the 1st and 4th sc skipping the 3 sc in between ; sk next sc, tr-tr in the next sc ;
Turn and work along the tr-tr just made : 13 sc on the tr-tr ;
Turn and work along the sc just made : hdc in 1st sc ; [ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
Turn and work along the hdc just made : hdc in the 1st hdc ; {hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc} ; rep {to} 5 times.

We are  now back where we started, and will once again work with the same sc on Round 2, where we have the tr-tr stitch.
So when I say same sc, I mean where this tr-tr st has ended.
In this part, we will work our trc 2-tog over the 6th and 10th scs, sk sc 7,8, and 9.

Round 3 : Part B : trc 2-tog over the same 6th sc and 10th sc, skipping the next 3 sc ; sk next sc, tr-tr in the next sc ;
Turn and work along the tr-tr just made : 13 sc on the tr-tr ;
Turn and work along the sc just made : hdc in 1st sc ; [ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
Turn and work along the hdc just made : hdc in the 1st hdc ; {hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc} ; rep {to} 5 times ;

In this part, we will work our trc 2-tog over the 12th and 16th scs, sk sc 13,14, and 15.

Round 3 : Part C : trc 2-tog over the same 12th sc and 16th sc, skipping the next 3 sc ; sk next sc, tr-tr in the next sc ;
Turn and work along the tr-tr just made : 13 sc on the tr-tr ;
Turn and work along the sc just made : hdc in 1st sc ; [ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
Turn and work along the hdc just made : hdc in the 1st hdc ; {hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc} ; rep {to} 5 times ;

In this part, we will work our trc 2-tog over the 18th and 22nd scs, sk sc 19,20, and 21.

Round 3 : Part D : trc 2-tog over the same 18th sc and 22nd sc, skipping the next 3 sc ; sk next sc, tr-tr in the next sc ;
Turn and work along the tr-tr just made : 13 sc on the tr-tr ;
Turn and work along the sc just made : hdc in 1st sc ; [ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
Turn and work along the hdc just made : hdc in the 1st hdc ; {hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc} ; rep {to} 5 times ;

In this part, we will work our trc 2-tog over the 24th and 28th scs, sk sc 25, 26, and 27.

Round 3 : Part E : trc 2-tog over the same 24th sc and 28th sc, skipping the next 3 sc ; sk next sc, tr-tr in the next sc ;
Turn and work along the tr-tr just made : 13 sc on the tr-tr ;
Turn and work along the sc just made : hdc in 1st sc ; [ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
Turn and work along the hdc just made : hdc in the 1st hdc ; {hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc} ; rep {to} 5 times ;

In this last part, we will work our trc 2-tog over the 30th and 34th scs, sk sc 31,32 and 33.

Round 3 : Part F : trc 2-tog over the same 30th sc and 34th sc, skipping the next 3 sc ; sk next sc, tr-tr in the 36th or 1st sc ;
Turn and work along the tr-tr just made : 13 sc on the tr-tr ;
Turn and work along the sc just made : hdc in 1st sc ; [ch 1, sk next sc, hdc in next sc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
Turn and work along the hdc just made : hdc in the 1st hdc ; {hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc} ; rep {to} 5 times ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st trc 2-tog.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
One absolutely stunning little tea light candle holder done.



Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  


Have a great day and see you soon. J

Wednesday, 28 October 2015

DINOSAUR BOOTS



DINOSAUR  BOOTS

A friend’s son wanted a pair of dinosaur boots, and as usual, I loved this challenge.
There are several boot patterns freely available on the net – so I looked through a few of them and am working on a variation / combination of some of them.   As always, here are my notes as I make my own project. 
Yarn Inspiration Bernat Slipper boots is a good pattern for a great range of shoes / boots. J

Materials used : Today I’ve used the superb Indian 4-ply Oswal acrylic yarn with a 4.5 mm crochet hook. I’ve held two strands together for the whole project.

Size made : For an 8 yr old (8” foot length)

Skill level :  Intermediate

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                    ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                    rep : Repeat
hdc 2-tog : Half double crochet 2-together

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

How to do the crocodile stitch : To refresh your skill on the lovely crocodile stitch, visit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4in7seykYc

[yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ; insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 4 lps on hk.  One hdc 2-tog made.

For our boot / shoe, I’ve decided to do a basic shoe pattern first, and then add on the embellishments to make it ‘dino-like’.

So for the base of the shoe, I’ve used my original pattern for an easy fit slip on shoe.

Right, so off we go.

So once you’ve got the basic foot part of the boot done, let’s work on the top.

Please read through to finishing information now so that maybe you can reduce the *trial n errors* I made.  Cheers.

Re-attach your yarn at the back (heel top) of the shoe at the joint.  Neatly work a round of sc all around the top of the shoe.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Calculations : Now as I’m not sure what size you’re working on, I’m going to write this as a general note.  
The best way to ensure that you get this part right, is to measure the heel and/or round lower foot of the child for whom you’re making this.  
Ensure also that you work this first row a little looser so that it is not constricting when the foot is being slipped in.  
Other than that, there is no *correct* number of stitches.

For the following rows, you will work an sc / hdc or dc (depending on what stitch you’ve used for the base of the shoe) all around till you get the height you need for your boot.

Just continually ensure that you are working a little looser than usual, as the longer the boot, the harder it *may* get for the little child to ‘slip’ the foot in.



Dino toes and scales :
For the Dino toes and scales, I’ve used the crocodile stitch. 
A lovely video link by +Tamara Kelly is given at the top of the blog.
So one row of crocodile stitches for the toes and one for the scales at the back of the boot should suffice.




Dino eye whites  : Make four using white

Start with a magic circle and 8 hdc in that circle.  
Pull to close and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 1 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; 2 hdc in each hdc till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 2 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in each hdc till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 3 : hdc 2-tog over the 1st 2 hdc ; 
*hdc 2-tog over the next 2 hdc* ; 
rep *to* till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Now you have this partial sphere with a hole on one end.  We will first stuff this eye ball in and then sew up this open end.  So fasten off leaving a long tail for the fastening and joining of this eyeball to the dino foot.
Make two whites for eyeballs of Dino eyes.




Dino eyes pupil : Make four using black
This is that little black circle inside the whites of the eye.  So you can embroider this in as well, but just thought we’d do it a *simpler* way (I hope)

Start with a magic circle and 12 hdc in that circle.  Pull it into a circle.  Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew in. 



Finishing : Lots of little things to sew in before we get our awesome Dino boot.  So, I made the whole boot first, and then attached on the parts that made it Dino-like.  It was a bit tricky to push the hand up and down the boot to get it all right, so I may attach these parts on first before I work on the top of the boot, the next time I make a similar pattern.
1.       Attach your three scaled toes to the front of the boot.  Fold your boot in half and find the centre – then flatten it out and pin your toes before attaching. There is a very convenient row for attachment and I love how the toes seeming pop out pretty Dino-like.
2.     Attach your Dino scales to the back of the shoe.  Follow the join line along the back of the boot and neatly mask that line with these scales as well as have that convenient line to follow.  As before, ensure you pin the scales down before sewing in.
3.     Attach your wobbly Dino eyes to the front of the boot just above the toes.


Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns.    J

 I'd appreciate if you link this blog when you make your own project.  Thank you.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  



Have a great day and see you soon. J