SWEET HEART TOP
Unusual patterns and different construction
methods always excite me..and this one looks like a simple challenge too. The pattern itself does not look
challenging.. It’s how it’s going to turn out that has got me all wired..so
welcome back, dear friend, as we unravel this new mystery together. I thought
that the little ends of the pineapples look like little hearts.. hence the name
Thank you for joining me.
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The Pinterest link https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837353978/
As I work on this pattern, I’ve
written down my notes that I share with you... and below is the inspirational photograph that got me started.
Materials used : Today
I’ve used just under 200 gms of our superb Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet
hook
This yarn is not specific for today's creation.
Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this creation to any size.
As it is a top, I'd say lighter yarns will give you a better fall.. so light acrylics or knitting cotton.
Size made : 34" (M)
You can make it to any size. Size only given for yarn estimation.
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced skill level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Quick analysis of what we’re going
to do here today. We are starting
our top from the neck and in a round.
Our pattern repeat is 24, and I
have started with 240 fsc for 10 pattern repeats (for a 34" bust size)
Note : Though we have a 24 stitch repeat to start with, when we
finish off, we will be reducing a few stitches, to fit it to the neck. I say
this right now as the start line will look awfully large and you may wonder.
Start with fsc in multiples of 24 for as many pattern repeats as
you wish.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st
4 fsc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
(ch 5, sk next 2 fsc, sc in
the next fsc) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next 4 fsc ;
ch
3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to*
all around ;
ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st
fsc.
Round 2 : dc in the 1st
4 dc ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
ch 3,
dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 5, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a ch 3, and
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st
2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, dc
2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
[ch 5, dc in the next dc ; ch
4, dc in the same dc] ;
ch 5, dc in the next 2 dc ,
dc 2-tog over the
next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ending with a ch 5,
and join with a sl-st to
the 1st dc.
Round 4 : dc in the 1st
3 dc ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
ch 5, 9 dc in
the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with
a ch 5,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 5 : dc in the 1st
dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
*ch 1, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
dc in
the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7
times ;
ch 5, dc in the next dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all
around ending with a ch 5,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 6 : dc 2-tog over in
the 1st 2 dc ;
*[dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc] ;
ch 6, dc in the next
dc ;
(ch 2, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7 times ; ch 6, ;
rep [to] 2 times* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 6,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Round 7 : dc in the 1st
2 dc 2-togs ;
*ch 6, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 6, [dc in the next dc 2-tog] ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to*
all around ending with a ch 6,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 8 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 5, sc in the next
ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 5, 2 dc in the
next dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 1,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 9 : 2 dc in the 1st
dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch
5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 4, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc
in the next dc ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all
around ending with a ch 3,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 10 : 2 dc in the 1st
dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the
next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next
dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next
2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Round 11 : dc in the 1st
3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the
next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 4, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3
dc ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next
dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 2,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Round 12 : dc in the 1st
5 dc ;
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep
(to) once ; ch 4, dc in the next 5 dc ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc
in the next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc* ;
rep
*to* all around ending with a ch 2,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc
Round 13 : dc in the 1st
5 dc ;
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
ch 4,
dc in the next 5 dc ;
[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 3, dc
in the next 5 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3,
and join with a
sl-st to the 1st dc
Round 14 : dc in the 1st
5 dc ;
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 4, dc in the next 5 dc ;
[ch 3, dc in
the next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the
next dc] ;
ch 3, dc in the next 5 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Round 15 : dc in the 1st
3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
*ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, dc 2-tog
over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ;
rep
[to] 2 times ;
(3 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next dc)
;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc *
;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Round 16 : dc in the 1st
2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
*ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, dc 2-tog
over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ;
rep
[to] 2 times ;
(3 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 5 dc ; 3 dc in the next
dc) ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2
dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Round 17 : dc in the 1st
dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
*ch 1, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in
the next dc ;
[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ;
rep
[to] 2 times ; dc in the next 11 dc ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next
dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3,
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
So in this round we’re using a dc
6-tog.
So work this just as you
would a dc 2-tog or a dc 3-tog, just that we work it over 6 dc.
Here's a video for a dc 5-tog
Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA
Now we’re working two sets of
dc 6-tog over 11 dc, which is obviously not possible. So this means that in the second set of dc
6-tog, you will work in the same last dc of the first set.
Or to put it another way, the 6th
dc on this 11 dc sest is used for both dc 6-togs.
As this is going to be terribly
confusing to write out in instructions, I will just say do a dc 6-tog and
hopefully we’ve got it.
Round 18 : dc in the 1st
2 dc ; sk next ch-1 sp and dc in the next 2 dc ;
*[ch 4, dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 5, dc 6-tog over the next 6 dc ;
ch 5, dc 6-tog over the
next 6 dc ;
ch 5, dc in the next dc ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
dc in the next dc ; dc
in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 4,
and join with a
sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 19 : dc 2-tog over the 1st
2 dc ;
*[ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 6, sk next dc
6-tog, 3 sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 6, sk next dc 6-tog, 3 dc in the next dc ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending
with a ch 3,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
In the following row, we’ll use
our sc 2-tog.
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whlsMemDHLc
Round 20 : sc 2-tog over the 1st
2 dc ;
* ch 4, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] once
;
ch 5, dc in the next sc ;
(ch 2, dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 5,
dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 4, sc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 4,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
In the following round, we use
our dc 3-tog in two different ways. In
one we work over 3 dc, which means that you will work the first part of
your dc on the 1st dc, then move on to the 2nd and
finally the 3rd, before finishing off the dc 3-tog.
In the other dc 3-tog, it’s all
in one dc, which means that you will work all three movements in that same
dc.
So please check the wording
carefully.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Round 21 : sc in the 1st
sc ;
*ch 6, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;
[ch 6, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(ch 6, dc 3-tog in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
rep [to] 3
times ;
ch 6, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 6,
and
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
For our last round, let’s work a round of ch-5 spaces all
around.
Round 22 : sl-st into the 1st
ch-6 sp ; sc in the same ch-6 sp ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp* ;
rep
*to* all around ;
ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of
that last ch-5 sp.
Quick double check : Please check that we have 10 sc between the 2 sc of Round
22. This is crucial for the rest of our
pattern, so please stop and check.
And just like that we’re done
with the yoke of our top.. now comes the easier lower half of our top.
Great we’re now going to start
on our lower half, we need to divide for
the sleeves. So here’s what I’ve
done. I have a total of 10 ‘heart-like’
patterns. If I keep two ‘heart-like’
patterns each for the front and back, and then we have three heart-like pattern
for the sleeves both sides (which means 2 + 2 + 3 + 3 = 10 heart like patterns
divided)
So how do we divide?
See the sc that you started /
ended with , I’ve kept that dead centre for the back, and there are one
‘heart-like’ pattern on each side of this sc that makes the back across chest portion.
Check the photograph below to
see how I’ve divided for chest and sleeves. So I’m going to work a new round of ch-5 sps,
and I will work an sc in the ch-sps that are marked in yellow for one side of
sleeve, and then on the other two marked in yellow for the second side of the
sleeve. Make sense, I hope
For the body of the top, I will
start renumbering for convenience.
Please note that all instructions below are for the body of the top and
not to be confused with those that we’ve just completed for the yoke.
So in this round we will mark
off the sleeves and then have just the body to be worked in rounds. Now see the
white and yellow markers? They’re marking a ch-5 sp each. So when the
instructions read ‘till marker’, I mean that you will join the centre of the
two similarly marked ch-sps together, and then continue to work in rounds for
the front of the body, till the second marker.
Once again for the second marker, you will join the centre of these two
marked ch-sps together. Right, let’s get
on, shall we..
Round 1 : sc in the 1st
ch-sp (where you are right now) ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*
till the 1st set of white markers ;
rep *to* till the 2nd
set of yellow markers ;
rep *to* till the last ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, dc and join with
a sl-st to the 1st st.
Great work.. we’ve now divided
off for the sleeves and will now work in rounds for the body.
One quick note : If this top is
for you, this is where you will slip this on and see that the body fits you. Do
not worry about the neck , which will look huge and ungainly. We will get back to that at the end and get
that to fit too.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st
ch-sp (where you are right now) ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*
till the last ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 3 - 4 : Rep Round 2.
Round 5 : (dc 2-tog ; ch 5,
dc 2-tog) all in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st
ch-5 sp between dc 2-togs , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, sc in the same
ch-5 sp ;
*ch 5, sk both ch-3 sps and sc,
(sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in
the same ch-5 sp)* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 7 : sl-st in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(dc 2-tog ; ch 5, dc
2-tog) all in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sc in the next
ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
And believe it or not, we’ve
just completed our pattern repeat.
Rep Rounds 6 & 7 , ending
with Round 7, till your project is of the length needed.
We will end with two simple rows of ch-5 sps
(like our first four rounds).
Note : At this point I found that the chest size was getting too
large for me (my recipient), so I have changed the spacing, and have made all my
ch-sps ch-3 sps, not ch-5 sps for the first few rounds. I then went back to the
regular pattern – and I love that this has given a neat shape to the lower part
of my top.
Choices and decisions for you.
Next Round : sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp ; sc in the same
ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 2, dc and
join to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of
that last ch-5 sp.
Last Round : Rep the above round
once more.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Optional : You may decide to add an edging of picots all around the
bottom edge. In that case, use the 3-ch
picot and work it right in the centre of each (or every other) ch-5 sp all
around.
Border : We will run this round of border around the neckline.
Now yet again, I offer you two
choices. There are two charts - and I've used both to reduce the neckline. So more decisions and a chance for creativity yet again
Border Round 1 A : ch 1, sk 1st fsc ; sc in the next 2 fsc ;
(sk
next fsc , sc in the next 2 fsc) ;
rep (to) all around
and join with a sl-st to
the 1st fsc.
In just skipping a few sts all
around, we have ‘tightened’ the neckline.
If this reduction is
sufficient, fasten off and weave in ends.
If not, work the second border as well.
Border B :
Round 1 : ch 1 (turning
chain), dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 fsc ;
*ch 1, dc 3-tog over the next
3 fsc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : sc in the 1st
st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : ch 1 (turning
chain), dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 sts ;
*ch 1, dc 3-tog over the next
3 sts ;
rep *to* all around
and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : sc in the 1st
st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Note : After each round, please check to see if the reductions fit
and if they do, obviously, that’s where you will end your garment.
You could also do a picot st in
that last Round 4 too, so go ahead and create.
And that’s done.. yet another
project superbly executed ! Big pats on the back all around !!
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I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those
free patterns … here you go
Here are some of my bolero creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
