Google+ Followers

Sunday, 6 March 2016

SWEET HEART TOP

  

SWEET HEART TOP

Unusual patterns and different construction methods always excite me..and this one looks like a simple challenge too.  The pattern itself does not look challenging.. It’s how it’s going to turn out that has got me all wired..so welcome back, dear friend, as we unravel this new mystery together. I thought that the little ends of the pineapples look like little hearts.. hence the name J

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you... and below is the inspirational photograph that got me started.


Materials used : Today I’ve used just under 200 gms of our superb Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.

Size made : 34" (M)

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                                      rep : Repeat
trc : Triple / treble crochet

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

Single crochet 2-together : Sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps.  One sc 2-tog complete


Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  We are starting our top from the neck and in a round. 








Our pattern repeat is 24, and I have started with 240 fsc for 10 pattern repeats (for a 34" bust size)

Note : Though we have a 24 stitch repeat to start with, when we finish off, we will be reducing a few stitches, to fit it to the neck. I say this right now as the start line will look awfully large and you may wonder.

Start with fsc in multiples of 24 for as many pattern repeats as you wish.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st 4 fsc ; 
*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; 
(ch 5, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc) ; rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next 4 fsc ; ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc ; 
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st fsc.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; 
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 5, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;  
rep *to* all around ; ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; 
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc) ; [ch 5, dc in the next dc ; ch 4, dc in the same dc] ; ch 5, dc in the next 2 dc , dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ending with a ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 
*(ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc) ; 
ch 5, 9 dc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 1, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the next dc ; 
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 7 times ; 
ch 5, dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 6 : dc 2-tog over in the 1st 2 dc ; 
*[dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc] ; ch 6, dc in the next dc ; 
(ch 2, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 7 times ; ch 6, ; 
rep [to] 2 times* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 6, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 7 : dc in the 1st 2 dc 2-togs ; 
*ch 6, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; ch 6, [dc in the next dc 2-tog] ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 6, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; 
rep (to) 5 times ; ch 5, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 9 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 4, sk next ch-5 sp, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 4, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 10 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 
ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 11 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; ch 4, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 12 : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; 
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 4, dc in the next 5 dc ; 
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc] ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc

Round 13 : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; *ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; ch 4, dc in the next 5 dc ; 
[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 4 times ; ch 3, dc in the next 5 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc

Round 14 : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; 
*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 4, dc in the next 5 dc ; 
[ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc  ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc] ; 
ch 3, dc in the next 5 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 15 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
(3 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next dc) ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc * ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 16 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
(3 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 5 dc ; 3 dc in the next dc) ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ; rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 17 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; *ch 1, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ;
[ch 3, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ; dc in the next 11 dc ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

So in this round we’re using a dc 6-tog.  So work this just as you would a dc 2-tog or a dc 3-tog, just that we work it over 6 dc.

Now we’re working two sets of dc 6-tog over 11 dc, which is obviously not possible.  So this means that in the second set of dc 6-tog, you will work in the same last dc of the first set.  Or to put it another way, the 6th dc on this 11 dc sest is used for both dc 6-togs.
As this is going to be terribly confusing to write out in instructions, I will just say do a dc 6-tog and hopefully we’ve got it.

Round 18 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; sk next ch-1 sp and dc in the next 2 dc ; 
*[ch 4, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 5, dc 6-tog over the next 6 dc ; ch 5, dc 6-tog over the next 6 dc ; 
ch 5, dc in the next dc ; rep [to] 3 times ; dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 19 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; 
*[ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 6, sk next dc 6-tog, 3 sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 6, sk next dc 6-tog, 3 dc in the next dc ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

In the following row, we’ll use our sc 2-tog, so do check “Stitches used” instructions on top of blog.

Round 20 : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; 
* ch 4, dc in the next 3 dc ; [ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc] ; 
rep [to] once ; ch 5, dc in the next sc ; (ch 2, dc in the next sc) ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 4, sc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

In the following round, we use our dc 3-tog in two different ways.  In one we work over 3 dc, which means that you will work the first part of your dc on the 1st dc, then move on to the 2nd and finally the 3rd, before finishing off the dc 3-tog.
In the other dc 3-tog, it’s all in one dc, which means that you will work all three movements in that same dc.
So please check the wording carefully.

Round 21 : sc in the 1st sc ; 
*ch 6, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; [ch 6, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ; 
rep [to] once ; (ch 6, dc 3-tog in the next dc) ; rep (to) 2 times ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 6, sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around ending with a ch 6, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

For our last round,  let’s work a round of ch-5 spaces all around. 

Round 22 : sl-st into the 1st ch-6 sp ; sc in the same ch-6 sp ; 
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp* ; rep *to* all around ; 
ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-5 sp.

Quick double check : Please check that we have 10 sc between the 2 sc of Round 22.  This is crucial for the rest of our pattern, so please stop and check.

And just like that we’re done with the yoke of our top.. now comes the easier lower half of our top.






Great we’re now going to start on our lower half,  we need to divide for the sleeves.  So here’s what I’ve done.  I have a total of 10 ‘heart-like’ patterns.  If I keep two ‘heart-like’ patterns each for the front and back, and then we have three heart-like pattern for the sleeves both sides (which means 2 + 2 + 3 + 3 = 10 heart like patterns divided)

So how do we divide?

See the sc that you started / ended with , I’ve kept that dead centre for the back, and there are one ‘heart-like’ pattern on each side of this sc that makes the back across chest  portion.
Check the photograph below to see how I’ve divided for chest and sleeves.  So I’m going to work a new round of ch-5 sps, and I will work an sc in the ch-sps that are marked in yellow for one side of sleeve, and then on the other two marked in yellow for the second side of the sleeve.  Make sense, I hope J




For the body of the top, I will start renumbering for convenience.  Please note that all instructions below are for the body of the top and not to be confused with those that we’ve just completed for the yoke.

So in this round we will mark off the sleeves and then have just the body to be worked in rounds. Now see the white and yellow markers? They’re marking a ch-5 sp each. So when the instructions read ‘till marker’, I mean that you will join the centre of the two similarly marked ch-sps together, and then continue to work in rounds for the front of the body, till the second marker.  Once again for the second marker, you will join the centre of these two marked ch-sps together.  Right, let’s get on, shall we..

Round 1 : sc in the 1st ch-sp (where you are right now) ; *ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till the 1st set of white markers ; rep *to* till the 2nd set of yellow markers ; rep *to* till the last ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Great work.. we’ve now divided off for the sleeves and will now work in rounds for the body.

One quick note : If this top is for you, this is where you will slip this on and see that the body fits you. Do not worry about the neck , which will look huge and ungainly.  We will get back to that at the end and get that to fit too.



Round 2 : sc in the 1st ch-sp (where you are right now) ; *ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till the last ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 3 - 4 : Rep Round 2.

Round 5 : (dc 2-tog ; ch 5, dc 2-tog) all in the 1st ch-5 sp ; *ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp between dc 2-togs , sc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in the same ch-5 sp ; *ch 5, sk both ch-3 sps and sc, (sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in the same ch-5 sp)* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : sl-st in the 1st ch-3 sp ; (dc 2-tog ; ch 5, dc 2-tog) all in the same 1st ch-3 sp ; *ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) in the next ch-3 sp* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

And believe it or not, we’ve just completed our pattern repeat.
Rep Rounds 6 & 7 , ending with Round 7, till your project is of the length needed.  We will end with two simple rows of ch-5 sps (like our first four rounds).

Note : At this point I found that the chest size was getting too large for me (my recipient), so I have changed the spacing, and have made all my ch-sps ch-3 sps, not ch-5 sps for the first few rounds. I then went back to the regular pattern – and I love that this has given a neat shape to the lower part of my top.

Choices and decisions for you.


Next Round : sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp ; sc in the same ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) all around ; ch 2, dc and join to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-5 sp.

Last Round : Rep the above round once more. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Optional : You may decide to add an edging of picots all around the bottom edge.  In that case, use the 3-ch picot and work it right in the centre of each (or every other) ch-5 sp all around.

Border : We will run this round of border around the neckline.
Now yet again, I offer you two choices. There are two charts - and I've used both to reduce the neckline. So more decisions and a chance for creativity yet again





Border Round 1 A : ch 1, sk 1st fsc ; sc in the next 2 fsc ; 
(sk next fsc , sc in the next 2 fsc) ; 
rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st fsc.

In just skipping a few sts all around, we have ‘tightened’ the neckline.
If this reduction is sufficient, fasten off and weave in ends.  If not, work the second border as well.

Border B :

Round 1 : ch 1 (turning chain), dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 fsc ; 
*ch 1, dc 3-tog over the next 3 fsc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sc in the 1st st and in each st all around. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : ch 1 (turning chain), dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 sts ; 
*ch 1, dc 3-tog over the next 3 sts  ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sc in the 1st st and in each st all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : After each round, please check to see if the reductions fit and if they do, obviously, that’s where you will end your garment.
You could also do a picot st in that last Round 4 too, so go ahead and create.

And that’s done.. yet another project superbly executed ! Big pats on the back all around !! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.


Have a great day and see you soon. 

I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go