Sweet Nothings Crochet: A REALLY NEAT MOTIF YOKE

A REALLY NEAT MOTIF YOKE

I was gifted one ball of this really lovely HP knitting cotton yarn that I’ve just been itching to try out. I think it’s not sufficient for a top and may not even work for a yoke – so this is what I am going to do with it .

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I had all these plain t-shirts that were getting on my nerves, so I thought I’d D.I.Y-it a bit. I found this really interesting small square motif, and I plan on linking a few of them up to get a neckline n shoulders.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837342291/

Materials used : Today I’ve used the superbly soft HP knitting cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : HP knitting cotton is an Indian yarn, available online on Facebook. However, you could use our Indian Anchor, Red rose or Shilpa knitting cotton.

Skill level: Intermediate to Advanced.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So how are we working this yoke?

I am going to work this first motif and then join a few along to get the width of chest. I will then add them to make the shoulder(s) and the back of the chest, leaving an opening for the neck.

If you’re feeling adventurous enough, and/or really like this motif, go on and make a full top of it.

Idea for a full top :

If i were making a full top of this, then I'd start with my motifs and join them to make the base of my top (so depending on the length you want - either hip or waist measurements used). I'd make one side of my top all the way the straight lined armhole and then the square neckline following the instructions here for the armhole & neckline. On reaching the two shoulders, I'd fasten off and make the second half of my top (or the back) - the only difference being the depth of the neckline, as the armhole, yet again, will be a straight one.

I'd then join the two shoulder blades, using the "join-as-you-go" method to complete the top.

I'd then join the sides and have a brand new motif top ready to be shown off.

Creativity is the only way to go

Excited ? Let’s start.

Start : with a magic circle and work 8 sc in that circle.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st sc ; *ch 3, dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ; *3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ; *ch 3 , sk next dc , dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

{[3 dc in the next ch-3 sp] ; dc in the next dc ;

rep [to] once ; dc in the next dc} ;

ch 4, dc in the next dc ;

*ch 2, dc in the same dc ;

ch 4, dc in the next dc ; rep {to} once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

In the following round, we’ll work a decorative picot.

Let’s use a 3-ch picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk)

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Round 5 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

{skipping next dc, [ch 1 + picot + ch 1 + dc in the next dc]} ;

rep {to} once ;

(ch 1 + picot + ch 1, dc in the same last dc) ;

rep {to} 2 times ;

*ch 2 + picot + ch 2, sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-2 sp ;

ch 2 + picot + ch 2, dc in the next dc ;

rep {to} 2 times ;

rep (to) once*

ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

This is one motif complete.

We will work each motif in this way, but we will join our motifs on that final round.

So for all further motifs, we only need to change instructions for that final round, which I will call Round 5A and am re-writing below.

We will be using the picots to join two squares.

The instructions below are just an indicator of how we will join.

However, there will be certain squares that need more joints that the instructions given below, but I am sure you have figured that out.

So before you join two motifs, ensure that the sections match. Instructions are given in purple and brown for joining one side of your motif to the earlier motif.

The rest of the instructions stay the same as for Round 5 (i.e for all sides that are not being joined).

I know you’re wondering why this instruction is so convoluted – well, its mainly because of the picots .. but once you get one side joined, its easy peasy.

Round 5A : dc in the 1^st dc ;

{skipping next dc, ch 1 + picot + ch 1 + dc in the next dc} ;

rep {to} once ; (ch 1 + picot + ch 1, dc in the same last dc) ;

rep {to} 2 times ;

ch 2 + picot + ch 2, sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp ;

[ch 2 + join with a sl-st in the ch-5 sp of earlier motif + ch 2] , dc 3-tog in the same ch-2 sp ;

ch 2 + picot + ch 2, dc in the next dc ;

< skipping next dc, ch 2 + join with picot of earlier motif + ch 2 + dc in the next dc > ;

rep <to> once ; (ch 2 + join with picot of earlier motif + ch 2 + dc in the same last dc) ;

rep <to> 2 times ;

ch 2 + picot + ch 2, sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp ;

[ch 2 + join with a sl-st in the ch-5 sp of earlier motif + ch 2] , dc 3-tog in the same ch-2 sp ;

*ch 2 + picot + ch 2, sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-2 sp ;

ch 2 + picot + ch 2, dc in the next dc ;

rep {to} 2 times ;

rep (to) once*

ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

There, you’ve successfully joined two motifs. Now with each joint, you need to use instructions in purple / brown to join two motifs, and we’re done.

Once you’ve joined all your motifs, you’ve completed the yoke for this superb top.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And can you believe how beautiful this yoke is !

Now the final question is “How many do I make?”. This totally depends on the size of the garment you are creating.

You need to measure your motif and calculate how many you’d need to make the width of the top or yoke you’re making. You will also similarly need to calculate how many you’d need to reach from say the bust level to say the shoulder level.

I have managed to work three motifs and almost cover the chest of my tee-shirt from side to side, and then one motif each makes up for the shoulder ‘straps’. For the front, just for a difference, I’ve added one fourth motif in between.

Now if you decide to make this into a top, just keep working and adding motifs till you get the width of your project first, and then start adding them on top to get the length.

As these are squarish motifs, we will get (a) a square neckline and (b) a straight armhole.

Be adventurous, and add motifs around the armhole to get a ‘sleeve’.. and see how this yoke pattern can so easily be adapted to create a beautiful top.

Oh, I would suggest you join Round 5 to the top of your t-shirt ensuring that your motifs are free to add their decorative touch. I have sewed this in by hand, but do feel free to machine it in.

Do share your ideas on how you’ve joined this to your shirt or top so that other viewers can also get ideas and create new products.

I know you will agree with me that this is one awesome project.. one small motif and so many possibilities.

Finishing :

Our finishing here is just weaving in and tidying up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed to be and ruining all your hard work!

As I've attached my motifs onto a tee shirt, all I did was make the motifs to work across the chest, attach it on, and then cut away a part of the tee shirt material from inside.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html