Monday 13 June 2016

ARROWED DOWN YOKE or TOP

ARROWED DOWN YOKE or TOP

This looks like a pretty easy pattern, and yet it is fascinating.  As you know, I keep pinning all the interesting free shares that are thrown our way thanks to the great World Wide Web, and my “to-do” list seems unending. 
That said, I ain’t complaining 

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I love the challenge of trying to figure out a pattern, and then the resultant pattern unveiling itself as you’d imagined in your head.. the thrill is just something else.

What I love about this pattern is that it is so multi-functional.  You can use this pattern to make a yoke (as I have) or a top.  So come along with me as I work on this pattern.. and follow my notes for your creation.



Materials used : Today I’ve used about 100 gms of some absolutely superb Alize Diva cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Indians : This yarn is available in India.



Size made : Yoke for a size 34” chest
Optional : a marker.

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw 

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA 

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.  One sc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc :  yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ; 
yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.  
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8 

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0


Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI


Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet         sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch               ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)               hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
                                                           
                                   
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  

The pin that has excited me to start on this project is for a top.  
So you can either work a top, or a yoke (as I am going to).  
So depending on what you’re working on, you start on the measure for that part of the body.


We start at the bottom of our top or yoke, with a row of fsc and then work our way up to the shoulders via the armhole and neckline, as usual.

Our pattern will be worked straight up from the chest /waist / hips (depending on how long you want it and what you’re making). Remember that as usual, you need to work the pattern repeat for the round measure that is the largest – between your bust / waist and hips for a top, or half the chest measure if you’re working on a yoke. 

I’ve decided on making a straight armhole, without any decrease, so let’s start on our pattern and go straight to the armhole.

Our first row could be a fdc or a fsc and this will not affect the pattern at all.  I’m just choosing to start with the foundation single crochet


Our stitch count is in repeats of 4 + 1

Start with fsc in multiples of 4 + 1 for the width of your waist or hip (read the note above)

Row 1 : 4 dc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, 4 dc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till the last 4 fsc, 
ending with ch 1, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the last fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : 4 dc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, 4 dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last 4 dc, 
ending with ch 1, sk next 3 dc, sc in the last dc. Turn.



And can you believe that we’ve actually finished our pattern repeat?!

Rep Row 2 till you reach the neckline and we’ll catch up soon.

This pattern is pretty simple and we will be working rep of Row 2 all through. 
What you need to decide is how deep and wide you need your neckline.
So first let’s fold your project, and decide how deep you want it, and the width of the neckline as well. Place markers at the side extremities of your neckline.

I’ll give you a rough idea of how to reduce the neckline for a square neck.  
Now assuming that we’re working at a similar shoulder width, I will tell you what I’ve done.
Please note that this may not work for you, but use this as  a guide anyway.




Neckline Row 1 : (Armhole edge) 
4 dc in the 1st sc ; 
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, 4 dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* 2 times. Turn.
This gives you four pattern repeats (or four 4-dc sets across)

The next row is a repeat of the same row.  
Continue repeats all the till you reach the shoulders.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

For the second shoulder, re-attach your yarn on the 4th dc-set (or marker) and work all the way from the neckline edge to the armhole edge, mirroring the above instructions.

This will complete one side of your top or yoke.

For the back, I have decided to keep it a little higher, so have worked all the way to the top –and just reduced the neckline for the last row.  Yet again, this totally depends on you, and the depth or width of the neckline, does not affect the pattern in the slightest.
So go ahead, be adventurous .. create and be different 

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing :

I’m thrilled at what we’ve made here today.  Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

With this one pattern write up, you can make not just a yoke, but a top as well.. and you can make it for several different sizes.  This yoke can also work for a young girls’ dress.. and I am thrilled to have be sharing this with you.

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Have a great day and see you soon. 

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too




















































































Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too






















































And here are some tops that I’ve made














































Have a great day and see you soon. J