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Friday, 19 August 2016

BEAUTIFUL LOTUS BABY DRESS


free crochet pattern for a little girl's dress

free crochet dress patternfree crochet dress pattern


BEAUTIFUL LOTUS BABY DRESS

This dress has been on several people’s “To-do” list ... and on mine for a long time as well.  The skirt pattern here is a really versatile pattern one and can be easily adapted for several sizes.  

I have actually made a similar skirt pattern for a dress before at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/peachilicious-divine-dress.html
The pattern in the peach dress has the similar ‘leaf-like’ pattern but ends in pineapples, whereas the one we’re working on today has a lovely lotus-like end.

Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.  :)

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839862745/ 
(edited : Notice that this link sometimes goes to the wrong photograph - if so, please cut paste this URL. Thanks)




Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 185 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ;
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 2 yr old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                              sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                        hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                       sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)


free crochet dress pattern

free crochet dress pattern


So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the chest / waist up.  Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist. 

These instructions are not that important when working for a new born baby dress, but they do when the dress sizing is for a larger child. 
Remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)

We will then work on the skirt portion of our dress off the bottom of the yoke.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.

You will take a look at the chart for the yokes, and you will work it according to the numbers given for the size on your chart
There is a link given above for chart on square neck sizing. Check that out before you start, in case you do not have a well-fitted outfit of the child you’re making this for.

And just when you thought we’re going to pick up our hooks, I’m holding you back with more *ideas* and *tweaks*.

As I’ve said before, I love little baby dresses with a little flare and not totally “A”-lined and here’s what I’ve done to add flare in this dress.

When the pattern repeat for the skirt portion is a long/large one, then with the restricted number of stitches for the tiny chest portion (esp for a small baby dress), we need to figure a way to add stitches for the skirt… all on that first round.

Remember here that if you alter the pattern repeat given, you need to calculate the number of stitches you are starting with on your own
a)   In the pattern below, it will say “sk … sts” (the … being indicative of number of sts).  So you could reduce the gap and reduce the number of sts skipped.
b)   You keep the number of sts skipped the same, but instead of using 3 sts for the 3 dc in between, on that first round , you work all 3 dc in the 1st st
c)     You combine both (a) and (b)

All this said, I am going to write the pattern instructions as charted and you can tweak it and create your beautiful dress as you please


Part I : Yoke





free crochet dress pattern


Start Row 1 :  with fsc for the number of stitches per chart (i.e according to the yoke size you’re making).  Turn.

Place markers for the four corners of your yoke. 
By the chart that we’re referring to now (say for the 18 – 24 m), we will count off  10 sts and place a maker for 1st corner, then count off 13 sts and place the 2nd marker, then count of 20 sts and place the 3rd marker, and finally count off 13 sts and place the 4th last marker.

We also have a “V”-st for this part of the yoke which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 2 :  dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till the 1st marker ;
“V”-st in the marked st ;
*dc in each fsc till the next marker ; “V”-st in the marked st* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end.  Turn.

Before we move any further, a quick note.  You need to decide how much of an opening you need for your buttons at the back.  Depending on how deep that is, you will work back and forth in rows.  Once you have a button placket that you’re happy with, then you will just join with a sl-st at that last st, and work in rounds thereafter.
For little babies, and younger kids, you will work a longer button placket so that we can ease the dress past the babies’ head properly.

Row 3 :  dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-1 sp ;
“V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;
*dc in each dc till the next ch-1 sp ; “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end.  Turn.

Rep Row 3 till we have the yoke size we need.
So what’s our yoke size? It’s right there on the chart.  So the top part of the chart shows you the number of stitches needed, and the lower part is the folded over yoke, and it has the length of shoulder and length from shoulder to base of yoke.  So work according to the sizing you’re creating, and we’ll meet in a bit for the skirt part of the yoke.
I suggest that we work the skirt portion of our dress in rounds. So on that last row for the yoke, go ahead and join the two ends so that we have a neat round to work on.



Part 2 : Sleeves


Re-attach your yarn at the armhole and let’s run a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 1 :  sc in the 1st sc ; *ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ; 
ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 2 :  sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ; ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Rounds 3 - 5  :  Rep Round 2.

Round 6  :  sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 3 : Neckline


Re-attach your yarn at the neckline and let’s run a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 1 :  sc in the 1st sc ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ; ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 2 :  sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ; ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 3  :  sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 4 : Skirt





Even before we start on our skirt, I’m throwing a few thoughts out at you.  

There is a chart given here, and the pattern there is partly used in the lovely white creation (that inspired me).  I think, however, that it may work better for a slightly older child .. with a waist – by which I mean that for my 2 yr old with a tiny 19” waist, I find the extra first few lines too many.
I am, therefore, opting to figure the first part of the pattern out by looking at the white dress and am writing these instructions accordingly.

Do feel free to choose the write up below or go with the chart (which is not the same for the first few lines )

Remember as I’ve mentioned before that you can always add or remove stitches and ch-sps to add to the flare of a skirt or reduce the laciness of a garment.  That said, let’s start with the skirt.

Our pattern repeat for the skirt portion is 9.

Round 1 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next dc ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc) ; ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc) ; ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, rep (to) once ; ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In our next round, we will start the next set of leaves, so see how this beautifully branches out.

Round 5 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (dc in the next 5 dc ; [ch 1 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ; dc in the next 5 dc) ; ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; [ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ; ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ; ch 2, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ; ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, rep [to] once ; ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , dc in the next 5 dc ; [ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ; ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Just for a moment, put your work down to admire what we’ve created and also to see how the leaves are emerging.
See how we’ve completed one full leaf bit and are halfway through the next one.

The following round is a rep of Round 6, but we will be ignoring that 1st dc which forms the end of the last leaf, so a small difference in the instructions.

Round 9 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; [ch 2 , sk next dc , 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc] ; ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, ending with dc in the last 2 dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

And I’m sure you’ve not only got the hang of the pattern, but also figured that we’ve completed one pattern repeat.  Rep Rounds 7 to 9 till you are happy with the length of the skirt for this dress (ending with a Round 9).

Now here’s where you have to put on your creative thinking cap again.  Just working this leafy pattern all the way to the bottom and ending with just this will be one beautiful pattern.
However, this pattern has a largish floral base which I’m going to attempt to write up and create.

This floral border is about 9 rounds.  So here’s what you need to do.  You need to calculate how many inches you will add in 9 rounds, and you will need to work the pattern reps above (i.e Rounds 7 – 9) till you are that many inches less.

So what does this mean? OK So say your 9 rounds will add 4.5” and your total dress length is 20”, then when you are just about 15.5” (as measured from the shoulder of your little dress), you need to stop rep of Rounds 7 – 9 (ending with Round 9) and start working on the instructions for the border. Does this make sense?

Great then.. off you go and create something beautiful and we’ll catch up soon.

And we’re back.  You have now completed your reps of Rounds 7 – 9 and have just done that last Round 9.  Beautiful so far, isn’t it?

Right.. for the next few rounds, we will be working instructions similar to Rounds 7, 8 & 9 but we’re going to finish these two leaves we’ve started and add one in the centre as well (Check the photograph to see what I mean here).
As the instructions are nearly the same, I’m going to call our Rounds 7A, 8A and 9A and then we will carry on with the numbering.

Please note that you must not confuse these instructions with what you’ve done before.  Thanks.





Now just to make this a little simpler, lets work 2 sts backwards here, so that we’re at the start of the 4 dc. 

For this turn your work (so you are now working along the wrong side of your work) and sl-st into the 1st 2 dc.  Turn again, and we will start our Round 7A working on the right side of our work

free crochet dress pattern


Round 7A :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 3, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; 
ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ; 
ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, rep [to] once ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around.                                      
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

See what we’ve done here? The long 4-dc pattern that we’ve made so far is going to magically open up into this lovely Lotus-like flower and we’ve just made our first step in that direction.

Round 8A :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc} ;
*ch 3, (dc in the next dc ; ch 2 , dc in the next 5 dc ; 
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc] ; ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc) ; 
ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; 
rep {to} once* ;
rep *to* all around,  and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9A :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc} ;
*ch 3, (sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; 
[ch 2 , sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc] ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) ; 
ch 3, sk next 2 dc , dc in the next 2 dc ; 
rep {to} once* ;
rep *to* all around ; 
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we’re decreasing at one part of our flower, and increasing at another part.  Please check the tension of your work, and increase (or decrease) the ch-sps in-between as desired.

Round 10 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
{ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc} ; 
rep {to} once ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
*ch 4, (sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; 
[ch 4 , dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
ch 4, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; 
rep {to} 2 times ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*[ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp ;
{ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} once ; rep [to] once ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 7, sk next dc, sc on the next dc 3-tog ; ch 7, sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*[ch 3, dc on the next dc 3-tog] ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc 3-tog, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;  rep [to] once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 5, sc on the next sc ; ch 5, dc in the next 2 dc ; * ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ; ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep {to} once ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 3, sc on the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 14 :  dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*{ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ; rep {to} once ;
[ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 2, sc on the next sc ; ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In our final round, you can work a decorative picot stitch all around. 
We will use the ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).
For a “how-to” on picots, please go to the top of this blog for an explanatory video link.
You will work the dc in the centre dc of the 3-dc set.

If you decide not to use the picot stitch, then you will work the same instructions just avoiding the “+picot” notification all around.

I will write the instructions without the picot.

Round 15 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
*3 dc in the next ch-3 sp and in the next 10 ch-sps ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc, dc in the next sc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? 

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric.  I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top.  The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. 


I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go