A CUTE SLEEVED SLEEP SACK
This is my first such creation and I just love the challenge it
presents. I’ve been given a photograph
of a sleep-sack (or a sleeved onesie?) that has been stitched and I am going to try and re-create this
in crochet. I am not sure if there are
any such patterns out there already – but this is what I’ve come up with.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used 280 - 300 gms Oswal 3-ply acrylic yarn, with a 4 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size made :
For a 13-month old
Size only given for a rough yarn estimation.
Difficulty level
: Intermediate Skill level ; minimum sewing skills to join ends.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Abbreviations used : Using U.S Terminology
dc : Double crochet sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk
: Hook
lp : Loop(s) yo
: Yarn Over
sk : Skip sc
: Single crochet
ch : Chain
fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
So before we set off on our new creative
journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
I am going to start our sleepy sack from the
feet and then work towards the shoulder, neck and sleeves.
So you’ll need to know
a) full
length from shoulder to ankle ;
b) chest
measure ;
c) full
sleeves measure. I am going to work in a
straight line from armhole to sleeve – firstly to avoid joins and weave in (and
if you are following my blog, you’ll know that I always try to get the easiest
way in – as I am profoundly lazy!) and also as I do think that a sleep sack
needs ease under arm to allow free movement ; and
d) Round
ankle measurement.
e) Round
wrist measurement.
You can choose whichever stitch suits you (and
your yarn) best and this will make no difference to the ‘pattern’ – so go ahead
and use sc / hdc / dc. For convenience
though, I’ll write the pattern in dc.
To get a small pattern and minor tightening
around the wrist and ankles, I suggest you use post stitches here. However, it is not required and
regular dc all around will work just as well.
I also plan on working my sleep sack without
a side seam. So this is how I plan on
doing that. I will start with the foot
and work in a round for the first few rounds, and then work in rows from side
to side. The opening for the foot
will be along the crotch.
Once we finish one foot, we will fasten off and
start on the second foot, mirroring whatever we’ve done for Foot #1.
We will then work in one row from side to side,
from the front centre placket of the sleep sack, all around the back to
the other side and back to the front centre placket from the other side.
I hope the rough diagram here gives you the
visual image.
My client said the baby loves stars and so I am
planning on throwing a few appliqué of these in – but do check out other appliqué / ideas on my Pinterest boards https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/granny-squares-to-make/
Right.. hooks on.. let’s go.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Start for your
first foot :
with as many fdc as required for the round ankle
measure of your child. Turn.
Note : 1. You
need to decide here if you’re keeping this lower foot part open, so you can add
in buttons OR you’re going to work in rounds. If working in rounds, join with a
sl-st to the 1st st. IF
working in rows, Turn at the end.
2. You need to decide if you’re working regular
dc or post stitches around this first start fdc row.
Note : If
working post stitches, work fpdc in each fdc till end.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st
fdc and in each fdc till end. Turn.
Note : If
working post stitches and in rows, work bpdc in each fpdc till end.
If working post stitches and in rounds,
work fpdc in each fpdc till end.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Row 2 - 5 :
dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end. Turn.
Note : You need
to decide here how long you’re going to make the legs – i.e how deep would you
like the crotch of the sleepy sack.
At this point, I decided to increase a little.
We have not started with multiples and
therefore it could be that you end without an exact count. I think it does not matter as we’re
just increasing to give it the looseness required – so if you do not end with 2
dc at the end, do not worry.
Row 6 : (Increase
row) :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 7 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 8 - 11 : Rep
Rows 6 & 7 two times.
Row 12 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till end. Turn.
Rep Row 12 till you reach the crotch.
Remember that for comfort and movement, drop
the crotch of the sleep sack a few inches.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat all instructions from start to the point
you’ve ended here for the 2nd foot, mirroring all that you have done
for the 1st foot.
Before you fasten off 2nd foot ch
3 and join with a sl-st to the end of the 1st foot.
Now that both our ‘feet’ are joined.. we will
work in rows from one end to the other, in such a way that we will leave a
front placket opening.
The 3-ch that we’ve just made will be the crotch
piece between both legs.
We will be working on both sides of this
chain and joining the two legs at the same time.
One side of this will be the front placket, and
the other side of the chain will be used to finish the back of our sleep sack
(the butt portion ;) )
Before you move on, check the width
from one end to the other – and see if this is a good hip measure for your
sleep sack. If not, adjust the number of chain accordingly.
We are now at one end of one foot.
So we will dc in the chains we’ve just made,
then work around the foot, and then work dc along the other end of the chain
and then work the 2nd foot all the way around to the 1st
st.
At that point, we will turn around and
work back on all the dc we’ve worked so far all the way to the armholes.
Next Row : dc
in the 1st 3 ch ;
dc in the next dc and then in each dc around the 1st
leg ;
dc around the back of the 3 chain and then dc in each dc all around the 2nd
leg till end. Turn.
Next Row : dc
in the 1st dc and in each dc around till end. Turn.
Work in each dc all around till you reach the
armhole level.
Note : After
you’ve worked a few inches please check if you are happy with the width or you
want it less wide.
If you’re ok with the width, then you will
continue without change till the armhole level.
If you want a reduction, then I’d suggest you
work a few dc 2-tog to reduce a few stitches till you get the shape you are
happy with.
Once you have the shape you need, continue without change till the
armhole level.
Our sleep sack has a straight line armhole – so
this will add a few inches to the final sleeve length.
Neck shaping
: For the neck there are several ideas – you can make it a square, round, or
“V”- shape. I’d suggest you keep the back high, so you only need to make these
changes for the front of the sleep sack.
Sleeves :
Our sleeves are two rectangles – of the width
and length of the sleeve.
Start with as many fdc as needed either for the
length or width of your sleeve.
If you are working along the length, then work
as many rows as needed for the width of the sleeve.
If you’re working along the width or round arm
measure, then you will work as many rows as needed for the length from armhole
to wrist.
Remember as I said before that the straight
lined body adds a few inches for the sleeve.
Tweak : If you
decide to do a few rows of post stitches around the wrist , then you will need
to work a shorter rectangle for the sleeve.
You will then attach the sleeve to the armhole and finish by working a
few rounds of fpdc (post stitches) around the wrist.
Yes, a lot of work.. a lot of calculation.. and
no specific measurements here.. but see what you’ve made.. you’ve designed an
individual exclusive piece.. Aren’t you chuffed and really proud?
Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila !
Motifs
The little
kid that I’m making this for is presently fascinated with the moon and stars,
so that’s what he gets on his sleepy sack.
Star
& Crescent Motif 1 :
For a
little star & crescent motifs check out this link
Paid crochet
pattern design by Zaaynab-Le' Von of Eyeseye creations at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crochet-crescent-moon--star
I also
found a neat chart for a star and here are the instructions for that one.
Star
Motif 2 :
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Start with a magic circle and 10
sc in that circle.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st sc. (10 sc)
Pull
lightly to close
Round
1 : 2 sc in
the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st sc. (20
sc).
In this
final round, we’ll make five spokes for our star.
For each spoke, we will start with a row of
chain, Turn and work our spoke in varying stitch length along the same
row of chain just made. Simple? Let’s do
it.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Round
2 : ch 8 from
the 1st sc ,
TURN and work along the chain just made ;
*Sc in the
3rd ch fm hk ; hdc in the next ch ;
dc in the next 2 ch ; trc in the
next ch ;
sk next ch and the next 3 sc ,
sc in the next sc (of Round 1) ; ch 8* ;
rep *to*
all around ending with a trc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Leave a
tail to join this motif to your work.
Moon
Motif :
There are
cute motifs for the moon at http://www.crochetgeek.com/2008/07/blog-post_18.html
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