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Wednesday, 23 November 2016

AMAIRA’s SHELLED PONCHO

crochet poncho

AMAIRA’s SHELLED PONCHO


I love it when I get a request to make a new design and all I’m given is a colour – and then told “go ahead and make something new and beautiful”.  Here’s what’s new and beautiful with this creation that I’m making for a 18 – 24 m baby girl.  Thank you for joining me on this new journey of creation.

Please remember that as usual, I have lots of ideas and tweaks thrown in, so do read through all my wordsy explanations.  After all, I am taking the trouble of thinking all this through :)

And as we’re making requests, may I request you to link my blog when you make your project.  I feel horrid saying this, but there are many who have used the patterns freely given here, and not given any credit to the blog that has given them this pattern.  Come on guys.. it ain’t that much work to give credit and link the blog now, is it?
It’s worse when someone says “taken this from …(where ever they’ve taken the pattern from.. not just my blog I mean)” and not taking the trouble of giving the proper link(s).

You got a free pattern .. Pay It Forward ! Share away and add my blog link J

Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.

Materials usedToday I have used about 2 skeins of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook 

Size made : For a 18 - 24 month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
The stitches used in this pattern are simple and the pattern is repetitive.  However, there is calculation involved, and there are decisions and judgments that you will need to take/make. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                      sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

May I suggest that you READ THROUGH the full pattern first before you pick up your hook.

There was this lovely photograph that inspired me to start on this creation, and I was lucky to find some charts, which I am using as a baseline for my work here.


Now there is a link for a set of sizing / measurement charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.  I always suggest that if you’re making this specifically for someone you know, try and get a well-fitted dress / outfit of that child. 

The pattern for this cape has a chart, but I am making a few changes in the end product.  I am going to make it a one-piece poncho and then add sleeves to it. 

Please note that the first few rows are worked back and forth and I have then joined and worked in a round.  IF you decide to work in rounds from the start, please join with a sl-st at the end from the start.





Start Row 1 :  with fsc in multiples of 10 for the round neck of the child you are making this for.  Turn

And straight off the bat, here are two ideas :
You could decide to make this is a slip on , with no opening for a button ;
OR you could make an opening for one / two buttons
If you decide to work it in rounds without buttons, then ensure that the first round will slip in neatly around the head of the child.

Row 2 :  dc in the 1st fsc ; ch 2, sc in the next fsc ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 fsc ; ch 2, sk next fsc, dc in the last fsc.  Turn.

Note : IF you’re working in the round, please start with a sc and the *to* pattern from the start.  At the end of the round, join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.  In the following round for you then, you will start with a sc in that 1st dc, and continue with the same pattern.

Row 3 :  sc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 4 :  dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep*to* till end ; 
ch 2, dc in the last sc. Turn.

In the following row, we’ll use our dc 3-tog.  Check under “stitches used” for a “how to” if needed.

At the end of this following row, we will join with a sl-st and start working in rounds thereafter.



Row 5 :  sc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 2, sk dc, dc 3-tog in the 1st ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep*to* till end ; 
ch 2, sc in the last dc. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Now if you’ve been working in rows, you have a ch-2 sp at the start and end of Row 5.  So you will sl-st into that 1st ch-2 sp to start, and you will end with the last ch-2 sp, ignoring or skipping the dc in between.

Round 6 :  sl-st past the 1st ch-2 sp and sc on top of the 1st dc 3-tog ; 
*(ch 5, sc on top of the next dc 3-tog) ; rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 5, sk next sc, sc on top of the next dc 3-tog* ; 
rep*to* till end ; 
ch 2, dc and join to the last sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-5 sp, just where you need to be.

Now from this round on, we will usually be ending in a ch-5 sp.  You have two options. You can work that last ch-sp and then join with a sl-st to the 1st st OR you can join as we have before with a ch 2, dc and join to the 1st st.

As I usually like to keep things simple, and I *think* that working a repeat till the end is the simplest, this is how I am going to write this out.  You choose whatever ends suits you.

Round 7 :  sc in the 1st ch-sp ; 
*(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; 6 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Row 8 :  sl-st and sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep*to* till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Row 9 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; 
[ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp* ; 
rep*to* till end ; 
ch 2, sc in the last dc. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 :  sl-st and sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*(ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 5, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep*to* till end ; 
ch 5, and join to the last sc.

I am sure you have understood what we’re doing here, and we’ve just completed one full pattern repeat.  So there’s just a small tweak to increase, and after I take you through one more pattern repeat, we’ll discuss our pattern.

Round 11 :  sl-st and sc in the 1st ch-sp ; *7 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 :  *dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) 5 times ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep*to* till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
[ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp* ; 
rep*to* till end ; 
ch 2, sc in the last dc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 14 :  sc on top of the 1st dc 3-tog ; 
*(ch 5, sc on top of the next dc 3-tog) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 5, sk next sc, sc on top of the next dc 3-tog* ; 
rep*to* till end ; 
ch 5, and join to the last sc.

Good job.  Put your work down and check the circumference or size of the lower part of your poncho.  IF you think this is good enough, then continue without further increase and rep Rounds 11 – 14 till you reach about 2” less than the child’s arm length

IF you want a frillier or a wider circumference, Rep Rounds 7 – 10 first adding one more dc in Round 7 (i.e working 8 dc in the ch-5 sp, which will also mean that each of your re (to) in the following rounds will increase by 1).

At the end of the increase (Round 10), check circumference again, and then IF needed, increase again, by rep Rounds 11 – 14, once again  adding one more dc in Round 11 (i.e working 9 dc in the ch-5 sp, which will also mean that each of your re (to) in the following rounds will increase by 1).  This will all depend on how wide you want it. 

Once you are happy with how wide the base of your work is stop increases and work with the repeats of the last set of four rounds you have worked.  
So say you are happy with the width/circumference you have after working 9 dc in each ch-5 sp and that 4-round repeat, then you will continue working this pattern of 4-rounds all the way till your project is about 2” less than the child’s arm length, or the length you need for the poncho.


Collar idea :
For the collar, I've worked the same pattern, but from the fsc around the neck.  All you do is re-attach your yarn back at the front placket and then work all around with the pattern.  
The only differences are that you start with a dc and you work side to side, and in just doing that you get a neat collar.  Work with the pattern for as many rows as you wish for the collar length desired. 

To keep the collar neat and work steadily, I checked at the end of every few rows to see if I was comfortable with the length and shaping.

I have put in a small button at the top of the cape, and have also threaded in a satin ribbon around the neckline. 

Have a fun creative time.
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It is quite sad that I have seen projects made using my pattern, but no credit linked to my blog.  It really does not cost you to link my blog, but it pays me – appreciation and encouragement, if nothing else… so go ahead, and do your bit, will you? Thanks.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J