Sweet Nothings Crochet: DIVINE LONG LADIES SKIRT

DIVINE LONG LADIES SKIRT

Like the famous ABBA song goes, I had a dream, to make a long flowing skirt.. and in that dream I thought it would be with these little pineapples that just exploded into larger and lighter ones , cascading all the way to the floor.. well, thanks to Pinterest, someone else had that dream too and wrote a convenient chart for me.. so I’m saved the trouble of scrunching my face up to make the chart.. I just enjoy the creative process of making this lovely, long, flowing skirt.. so come along with me and let’s smile while we make this super creation.

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Inspired by one of the wonderful free floating freebies over the net, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.

Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red Rose metallic knitting cotton. This pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn .. and maybe even some 3-ply yarns.. just for the way you’d want it to ‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.

Right off, I’m going to request you to please ensure that you do share my blog when you make this exquisite creation… and when you do share it, please share the actual URL / page link and not just my name. Thank you.

Materials used : Red rose metallic knitting cotton (nearly 20 balls) ~ with a 3 mm crochet hook.
The amount of yarn needed depends on the length and waist of the person intended. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project. For a good fall though, lighter yarns will work better, so Anchor works too.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size : Waist 27" Length 37" ; Bottom flare ~ 170"

You can make this to any size you want, using any yarn with a suitable hook

Skill level : Advanced

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch   st(s) : Stitch(es)
hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we go ahead with the construction, let’s take a look at what we’re going to do here.

So we start our pattern from the waist and as we move down, there is a small flare that is brought on by the lovely hanging pineapple border.

So if there is a really large difference between waist and hip measures of the recipient (for this skirt), I’d suggest one of two things :

a) Use a tie-cord to bring the waist together. This has two advantages – not only do you avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you also have a lot more flair for your skirt. In case you decide you want to do it this way (rather than fitted), then you work your counts for your start line stitches to go around your (or intended) hips. You will need a line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass your tie cord.. so I’d suggest you do a (dc in 1^st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all around. You can then loop your tie cord neatly on completion.

b) Experienced crafters can work in an even increase every alternate row to give the finished skirt a slight “A”-lined effect followed then by the border.

With this pattern, I am going to use the lovely fdc to start. I personally feel that the finish this foundation gives is worth all the work.

However if you wish to start with regular chains, go ahead. You will then start with multiples of 37 + 2 and work your 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hook, and work 1 dc in each ch till end. At the end of your row, ensure that you have multiples of 37.

So our stitch count is in multiples of 37.

Work a small swatch to check your gauge and see how many repeats you need to get the waist round for your project.

We’re going to work in rows for the first few rows, and then work in rounds.

Now, as each of us will have different waist / hip sizes that we’re working with, please work the opening at the back to suit your requirements.

Now there are two ways to work the skirt calculation. You can either calculate for the round waist, and then keep the opening large enough to cover or go around the largest part of the lower body and then you will work for these first few rows back and forth

or you could just work the top (round waist area) measure in such a way that it covers the largest part of the body, and then affix an elastic tape along the top of the waist band – such that it neatly stretches and then you can work in rounds all through.

I am also going to be giving the instructions per chart.

I am going to work in rows back and forth for the first few rows, making a small opening at the back to ease in the hips. I will then work in rounds.

My instructions, therefore will be in rows and then rounds accordingly.

If you feel that you need several more rows to work the hips in, then please continue working in rows till you have the right measurement, and then work in rounds thereafter.

One cheat / trick to increase width of your garment faster is to increase the spacing between stitch groups. So if , for e.g, the pattern reads ch-5 , dc in etc, you just make that a ch-6 and work the rest of the pattern. That way, you will be increasing one ch per repeat without changing the pattern, but increasing unnoticeably.

Do note though, that you will need to add this ch all through the pattern else the shape of your skirt may change – i.e you may not get the proper gradual shaping desired.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc as per your requirement. Turn.

We have the first of our “V”-sts from this row on.

Our “V”-st is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : “V”-st in 1^st fdc ;

*(ch 5, sk next 6 fdc, “V”-st in next fdc) ;

ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, sc in the next fdc ;

[ch 5, sk next fdc, sc in the next fdc] ;

rep [to] 7 times ;

ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, “V”-st in the next fdc ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

From now on, all “V”-sts will be done in the ch-1 sp of the earlier “V”-st.

Row 2 : “V”-st in 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] 6 times ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 3 : “V”-st in 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 4 : “V”-st in 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 : “V”-st in 1^st “V”-st ;

*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st “V”-st

Note 1 : As I am happy with the back opening, I will work in rounds here on, and join with sl-st at the end of every round. If you still need a longer back opening, please work in rows back and forth and join with a sl-st to that 1^st “V”-st when you reach the opening length you need.

Note 2 : You will notice that at that point where we’re joining our two sides, we have four “V”-sts together, whereas all around we have only three “V”-sts. In the round after you have joined, (so for all those of you who are joining now in Row 5, this applies right now), you will work your “V”-st over the two “V”-sts. This means that you will work 2 dc in one “V”-st and then second half of the same “V” st, (i.e. ch 2 and then the 2 dc) in the next “V”-st. This will conveniently reduce one “V”-st without changing the pattern at all.

Please check the round measurement at this point to ensure that you are going to be able to get the skirt around the largest part of the lower body before continuing.

Note 3 : As all of us may be working different back opening lengths, I am not going to specify where you need to do this “reduction start V-st” , so instructions below will not indicate it. Ensure though that you have only three “V”-sts between the filigree lacy work all around.

Note 4 : Our following row is an increase row. We will be working 9 dc in the centre “V”-st. Now at the point where we start, we have those 4 “V’-sts that we need to make into 3, and we are also supposed to be working 9 dcs in that centre “V”-st. So what I’ve done is work 9 dc over the existing two “V’-sts, thus killing both these birds at one stone.

Round 6 : Increase row :

*{ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ,

5 dc in the ch-1 sp , dc in the next 2 dc} ;

(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Note : If you’ve joined at the back of this row (making this a round), may I suggest, for your own convenience and for a neat finish, that you sl-st all the way back to the first of the 9 dc on this first set.

Instructions will be given assuming that that is where you are.

Round 7 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*{ch 1, dc in the next dc} ;

rep {to} 6 times ;

(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 8 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

{ch 5, sc in the next dc} ;

rep {to} 6 times ;

(ch 5, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) once ;

*rep {to} 8 times ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 9 : sc in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

(“V”-st in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

“V”-st in next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 10 : sc in the ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 4 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*rep {to} 5 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 11 : sc in the ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 3 times ;

(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*rep {to} 3 times ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 12 : sc in the ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 2 times ;

(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*rep {to} 4 times ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 13 : sc in the ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 2 times ;

(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*rep {to} 2 times ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Our following row / round is a rep of Round 6 , in a way.

So let’s break this down to make it a little simpler.

In Round 13, you see that we have five sets of “V”-sts.

Now in the following round, our increases will be in the 2^nd and 4^th “V”-sts , and this is where we will be starting off our two new pineapples.

So “V”-st # 1, 3 and 5 stay as “V”-sts.

Simple enough , right ?

Round 14 : Increase round :

sc in the ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} once ;

(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

*{ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc , 5 dc in the ch-1 sp , dc in the next 2 dc} ;

rep (to) once ;

rep {to} once ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

The next round is also an increase round.

In this round, we will increase in between the two pineapples that we’re starting out. This is a preparation for the next set of pineapples which will come in between these two pineapples we’re just creating.

So you see how we’re growing our pattern, and adding pineapples..

Round 15 : Increase round :

sc in the ch-5 sp ;

*{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

ch 3, dc in the 1^st dc ;

[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;

rep {to} 7 times ;

[rep (to) once ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same “V”-st] ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ;

rep [to] 8 times ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 16 : “V”-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

ch 2, sc in the 1^st dc ;

{ch 5, sc in the next dc} ;

rep {to} 7 times ;

[rep (to) once ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp] ;

* ch 2, sc in the next dc ;

rep {to} 8 times ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 5, “V”-st in next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, sc in the next dc ;

rep {to} 8 times ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 17 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 6 times ;

ch 3, (“V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

“V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep {to} 7 times ;

rep [to] 2 times* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 18 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 5 times ; rep [to] once ;

(ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep {to} 6 times ;

rep [to] 2 times* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 19 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 4 times ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep {to} 5 times ;

rep [to] 2 times* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 20 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*[ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ;

ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ;

rep {to} 3 times ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

rep {to} 4 times ;

rep [to] 2 times* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

And we’ve successfully completed one repeat.

Our pattern repeat are Rounds 6 – 20.

So if you look at this pattern you’ll see that we are starting the new increase round here, in between the earlier pineapple, and our next pineapple will start in between these pineapples. I am sure you know what I mean.

Remember that as we’re increasing pineapples with each pattern repeat, we will need to increase repeats within each round as we go around.. but I’m sure you knew that too.

Right then, continue these repeats till you have a skirt of the length you need.

The beauty of this pineapple pattern is that you can end it at any time… well, that’s what I’ve done. Once my skirt reached the full length needed, I ended, without worrying about the pattern at that point.

The only finishing that I’ve ended with is a picot on that last round.

I used the ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1^st ch)

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your divine skirt on and show off.. you deserve to

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