Saturday, 5 November 2016

MY PURPLE DRESS SET (with a Belt & Headband)

crochet girl's dress, crochet belt, crochet head band

MY PURPLE  DRESS SET 


I recently made a set of dresses for a pair of 5-yr old twins.  The grand mother (and mother) were very sure about one thing – no similar dresses or colours.  They did not like dressing the twins in the ‘same’ type of clothes .. which suits me fine as I love making exclusive and individual clothing for people.   However, when the girls were presented their clothes, they decided they both wanted the purple coloured dress ! 

So here I am.. designing a new dress for one of the twins.. the only requirement being it is purple.. This is the kind of love I get.. isn’t it awesome? Total freedom and confidence in my work!  So join me as I make a new purple dress, with a lovely matching belt and headband.

Do check my long pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes. This is not my pattern.  I’ve followed a rough pattern of sorts and it is not in English – so here is what I’ve done with this.  




Materials usedToday I’ve used a combination of yarns and I have used ~ 250 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 5 yr old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.


How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


How to join sides with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join sides with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                      sc : Single crochet
e-sc : Extended Single crochet
hdc : Half double crochet
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

crochet dress


So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the waist up.  Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist. 
Whatever you decide, remember that you will work half that round measure (so either half round chest or half round waist).
Also remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)

So you can work this pattern to fit a child of any size.  All you need to remember is to check the link for the size needed for your child’s yoke, and then get the stitch count right for the skirt , making it as long and frilly as you desire. Ta da!

For the front of the yoke, we will work from side to side, armhole to armhole.
For the back, you need a opening for a set of buttons, so as you reach the shoulders, you will divide for the button hole opening and work back and forth.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.





Part 1 : Yoke

For our yoke, you can work all sc / all hdc / or all dc all the way from one side to the other, or you can do this little “V”-st which is a small pattern of sorts.
We have a “V”-st for the yoke, which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp. 
We are working from the waist / chest up to the shoulders. 

So here are two ways you can work the yoke.
1.       You start with fsc and work in plain sc / hdc / e-sc or dc all the way from the waist up to the chest calculating number of stitches you’ll need for half the round waist measurement
2.     You start with fsc in multiples of 3 - if you are using the “V”-st pattern for the yoke calculating number of stitches you’ll need for half the round waist measurement.

Now that you have figured out which measurement you are using, let’s hook on.
You need also to decide how long you want your back (placket) opening for the buttons.

Start Row 1 : with as many fsc (in multiples of 3 if you are going to use the “V”-st) as needed for the half round waist measurement.

Row 1 : dc in 1st sc ; sk next 2 sc, “V”-st in the next sc ;
*sk next 2 sc, “V”-st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 sc ;
sk next sc, dc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; and in each “V”-st all the way to the end ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the armhole.

Armhole shaping
For our armhole decrease we will work just one decrease row.

Armhole shaping Row : sl-st in the 1st dc and the next“V”-sts ; dc in the ch-1 sp of the next “V”-st ; and in each “V”-st all the way to the 2nd last “V”-st from end ; dc in the ch-1 sp of that 2nd last “V”-st.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the neckline level.

For the neckline shaping : figure out how deep and wide you want your neckline, and then place a marker at the point that decides the sides of your neckline.
You will work from the armhole till the ch-1 sp of the marked st ; dc in that marked stitch.
You will once again Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the shoulder level, working one shoulder at a time.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Once done, return to the other marker  (for the other side of the neckline) and work a dc in that marked ch-1 sp of that “V”-st. 
Once again, Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the shoulder level.  
Fasten off and weave in ends.

You have completed one side of your yoke.

Repeat instructions for the other side (back) of the yoke.

The only difference is that you will need to work in a small opening for the back button, and for this, I’d suggest that you keep a small opening just on the last few rows and at that time you will work back and forth for these few rows from the centre of your yoke to the armhole end and back till you reach the shoulder level. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join your two yokes at the shoulders and sides.

For the skirt portion of our dress, we will work in rounds.


Part 2 : Skirt for your beautiful dress

crochet dress

I suggest you work the skirt portion of our dress in rounds.  We will be working the skirt part of our dress from the other side of the fsc.

Before we work out our stitch count, two points :
1) Ensure that you manage to get the stitch count by adding stitches if need be ;
2) The more the number of stitches you have (in multiples, of course), the more the flare / frills on your skirt for this dress.

Our stitch count for the skirt is 3

Just to get the number of stitches right, let’s work our first Start Round with a round of sc all around

Start : sc in 1st st and in each st all round, ensuring you have multiples of 8. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

For our skirt part, we have a “V”-st again. Here our “V”-st is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

The last idea before we set off on our pattern
Quick tweak / ideas :
1.       To increase the frilly portion and laciness, you could make your
“V”-st  as (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
2.     For the first few rounds, you could reduce the frilliness by using the regular “V”-st (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.


Now the beauty of this pattern is the use of colours and changing every alternate row.  I am going to write the pattern indicating color changes, but you could well decide to make the whole pattern in one colour as well.
Decide which is your Main colour (MC) and which is your Contrast colour (CC).

If using two colours, remember to bring your alternate colour up every row at the end, so that you just have this neat line right at the back.

Round 1 : (Using MC) : “V”-st in 1st st ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 sts, “V”-st in the next st ; ch 1, sk next 2 sts, “V”-st in the next st* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we need to start with a “V”-st in the very 1st /ch-sp.  Now as this a bit difficult, may I suggest that you split your “V”-st and then work 2 dc in the ch-sp, follow the pattern and when you come back around, let’s work the next 2 dc (of our “V”-st) in that same 1st ch-sp and then join with a ch-1 to the 1st dc.
Right then.. let’s get to it..

Round 2 : (Using CC) : 2 dc (of our 1st “V”-st) in the 1st ch-1 sp ;  
*sk 2 dc (of “V”-st), sc in the next ch-1 sp (of “V”-st) ; sk 2 dc (of “V”-st), “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp (between 2 “V”-sts)* ;
rep *to* all around ; 2 dc (of our 1st “V”-st) in the 1st ch-sp, ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : (Using MC) : sc in the 1st ch-1 sp ; 
* sk next 2 dc (of the “V”-st) , “V”-st in the next sc ; sk next 2 dc (of the “V”-st) , sc in the next ch-1 sp (of the “V”-st)* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rep Rounds 2 & 3 till you have a skirt length (for your dress) as desired.

Now at the bottom of our dress, there is a lovely lacy border.  IF you decide that you are working in that border then you will need to first figure out how wide that border isgoing to be and work that many inches less when rep Rounds 2 & 3.

Part 3 : Border


The stitch count for our border is 12 + 3
Before you start on the 1st round, ensure that you have multiples needed. 

Round 1 : sc in 1st sc , ch 5, sk next 3 sc, sc in the next sc ;
*ch 5, sk next 3 sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around till the last 3 sc ; ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-5 sp.

Round 2 : sc in 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

In the following round, we will be working 6 dc in some of the ch-5 sps.  However, in the 1st ch-5 sp, we will start only with 5 dc and then work that last 6th dc right at the end.  This will be done for both this round and the following two rounds.

Round 3 : 5 dc in 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) once ; ch 1, 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-5 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same 1st ch-5 sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 4 : dc in 1st dc ; 
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
*ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5,  sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-5 sp ; sc in that last ch-5 sp ; ch 2, dc in the 1st ch-5 sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

In the following row, we’ll be using the dc 3-tog.  Check the links above for a quick “How to”, if needed.

Round 5 : dc 3-tog in 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next dc ; rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* all around till the last ch-5 sp ; sc in that last ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next dc ; ch 1, hdc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc 3-tog.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

In our final border round, let’s work a picot in the middle of the ch-sp.  Let’s work a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk)
Please try and follow along with the chart for the final round.

Our pattern stitch here is the same one all through – but as it’s a little complicated, I’m going to write it here once. It is (ch 3 + picot + ch 3 and then sc in the next ch-3 sp) all around. 
In between two sets of large shells, we will be skipping stitches, so pay attention to that.

Round 6 : sc in 1st ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; *sk next 2 ch-3 sps and rep (to) 5 times* ;
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next dc ;
rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* all around till the end.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 4 : Sleeves
If you decide to work in a set of sleeves, then you will first run a round of sc all around the armhole with the stich count multiples given (12 + 3) and then start on the border pattern for the sleeves as well.


Part 5 : Make your own button
I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric.  I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top.  The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

For more information and photos, visit


Part 6 : Belt / Headband

crochet head band or belt

crochet belt

crochet head band

crochet head band

I can see how confused you look on reading the heading here J.  Well, what I plan is on making this little strip by working a row of shells on either side of a fsc chain. You can decide on the length of this strip – thereby deciding if you want it as a belt or headband.. or make one each .. How smart is this?? Right??

Now you could decide to work this belt for the round waist, or for half the waist.  If making half round waist, then you will attach a ribbon around the back of the belt or headband strip we’re making.  I was inspired by looking a this belt photograph - so you could do this for the ends of your belt as well!



Start :  with a fsc chain in multiples of 6 for the length you need for the belt.  Turn.

The belt will be worked in one continuous row/ round.  We start at one end of the fsc chain, work till the end, and then work around the end of the fsc chain and work under the chain in the same sts as we worked in the top of the chain.

Row 1 :  3 dc in the 1st fsc ; (sk next 2 fsc, 7 dc in the next fsc ; sk next 2 fsc, sl-st in the next fsc) ; rep (to) till the last 3 fsc ; sk next 2 fsc, 14 dc in the last fsc ;  Turn and working along the bottom of that fsc chain ; sl-st in the next sl-st ; 7 dc in the next st (where we’ve worked the 7 dc on the top) ; [sl-st in the next sl-st ; 7 dc in the next st] ; rep [to] till the last st ; 11 dc in that last st and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Belt & Headband finishing :  

crochet head band ; crochet belt

I’ve decided to neatly attached a ribbon to the two ends of the belt.  This is a neat idea even for your headband.  Of course, you could opt to add a button at the back of the belt, and for your headband you could add elastic at the end for ease.

Part 7 : Headband Motif

crochet motif

crochet head band, crochet motif

For the cute little butterfly motif, check out


Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress with lots of little additions made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J

























 http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/06/babys-shelled-dress-world-of-internet.html