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Saturday, 30 July 2016

MY PURPLE PINEAPPLE DRESS


MY PURPLE PINEAPPLE DRESS

My client saw a similar dress I’d made sometime back and wanted the same one.  Now if you have been following my work and my blog(s), you’ll know that I really do not like to repeat my work – but I did need to get the client what she wanted as well.  Coincidentally, this pattern was shared by someone on Facebook, and this was as similar as it was a little different.. so it just suited both my client and myself!  Aah, isn’t that just the nicest thing?

There are a lot of links given here, so may I please request that you go through them all before you ask questions that I’ve already replied to here. Thanks a ton.

Do check my long pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.



Materials usedToday I’ve used a combination of yarns and I have used ~ 250 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 5 yr old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


How to join sides of a motif with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join sides of a motif with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                         ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                              yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                       sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the waist up.  Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist. 
Whatever you decide, remember that you will work half that round measure (so either half round chest or half round waist).
Also remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)

So you can work this pattern to fit a child of any size.  All you need to remember is to check the link for the size needed for your child’s yoke, and then get the stitch count right for the skirt , making it as long and frilly as you desire. Ta da!

We will then work a set of motifs around the base of the yoke which work like a belt.  As this is a separate attachment, you could decide if you want this included or not.

We will then work on the skirt portion of our dress off the bottom of the motifs.

Remember that if you are working with the motifs, I’d suggest you make these motifs first just to get a gauge of how large they’re going to be and where you need to start your yoke from.
It would be neat to have these motifs come around the waist i.e belt-like.

For the front of the yoke, we will work from side to side, armhole to armhole.
For the back, you need a opening for a set of buttons, so as you reach the shoulders, you will divide for the button hole opening and work back and forth.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.

I have used a 4-ply yarn for my work, and I found the dc (for motif) too large, so I have worked hdc’s both in the motif as well as yoke portion.
For the skirt portion, I found that the “V”-st was not working well for the 1st few rounds, as I had increased the number of stitches to get a fuller flared skirt, so I have tweaked the “V”-st for the first few rounds. 
If working with knitting cotton or a thinner ply acrylic yarn though, this write up would be perfect!

Part I : Motif




We start with the motifs.  Once you’ve made one motif, you will measure this out and decide how many you’ll need to go around the chest/waist of your little girl and make that many motifs.

Start Round 1 :  with a magic circle.  (2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc) in the magic circle ; *ch 3, rep (to) once* ; rep *to* 2 times ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

From the following round, we will use a “V”-st which will be just for our motif.
Our Motif “V”-st will be (dc ; ch 3, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
I specify Motif “V”-st as the yoke of our dress also has a “V”-st which is different.

Round 2 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-5 corner sp ,
(3 dc ; ch 5, 3 dc) in the same ch-5 sp ;
*“V”-st in the next ch-3 sp , sk next 2 dc, rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around ; sk next 2 dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 :  sl-st into the 1st dc,
(dc in the next 2 dc , [2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc all in the same ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next 2 dc) ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st, sk next dc, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ; ending with a “V”-st ; 
ch 1, sk next dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 :  sl-st into the 1st dc,
(dc in the next 3 dc , [2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc all in the same ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next 3 dc) ;
*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st, sk next dc, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a “V”-st ; 
ch 2, sk next dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 :  sl-st into the 1st dc,
(dc in the next 4 dc , [2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc all in the same ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next 4 dc) ;
*{ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ; sk next “V”-st, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp} ;
ch 2, sk next dc, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep {to} ; 
ch 2, sk next dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

We will make all our motifs the same way till the last Round 5.  
In case you wish to Join-As-You-Go, for all following motifs, please use Round 5A for the last round of your motif.

I have, however, made each motif separately and then joined them – I have not used this Join-as-you-go method.

In the following round, I will write instructions on how to join ONE SIDE of your motif to another. 
Instructions to join with the next motif are in red, for convenience.

Round 5A :  sl-st into the 1st dc,
(dc in the next 4 dc , [2 dc ; ch 5, 2 dc all in the same ch-5 sp] ;
dc in the next 4 dc) ;
{ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ; sk next “V”-st, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp} ; ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the ch-5 corner sp of the earlier motif ; ch 2, 2 dc in the ch-5 sp of this motif ; dc in the next dc , sl-st and join with the dc of the earlier motif ; dc in the next 3 dc of this motif ; ch 1, and join with a sl-st in the ch-2 sp of the earlier motif ; ch 1, “V”-st in the ch-2 sp of this motif ; sk next “V”-st and “V’-st in the next ch-2 sp of this motif ; ch 1, and join with a sl-st in the ch-2 sp of the earlier motif ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; sl-st and join with the dc of the earlier motif ; dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next ch-5 corner sp of this motif ; ch 2, sl-st and join with a sl-st to the ch-5 corner sp of the earlier motif ; ch 2, 2 dc in the ch-5 sp of this motif ;  dc in the next 4 dc ;
*rep {to} once ; ch 2, sk next dc, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a rep {to} ; ch 2, sk next dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Right then, go ahead and make as many motifs as you need for the round waist.
I have decided to join all my motifs.  There are two choices here. 
1.       You could keep the last 2 motifs free (without joining the sides) and then keep the opening for the back all the way down to the waist.
2.     You could join the motifs all the way around, and then work one full front, and two backs.
Either way, it does not affect the pattern.

Choices and decisions for you, as usual!



Part 2 : Yoke


The motifs we’ve just joined make the belt-like waist part of our dress.
We will work from one side of the motifs for the yoke, and we will work our skirt part of the dress off the other side of these motifs.

We will work one front and one back separately.  The stitch count repeat for our yoke is 3 + 2.  Just for convenience, and neatness, go ahead and work one row of sc all down the motif in multiples of 3 + 2.

We have a “V”-st for the yoke as well, which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.  Do NOT confuse this “V”-st with the one we’ve used in the motif before.

Row 1 : dc in 1st sc ; sk next sc, “V”-st in the next sc ;
*sk next 2 sc, “V”-st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 sc ;
sk next sc, dc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; 
and in each “V”-st all the way to the end ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the armhole.

Armhole shaping
For our armhole decrease we will work just one decrease row.

Armhole shaping Row : sl-st in the 1st dc and the next“V”-sts ; 
dc in the ch-1 sp of the next “V”-st ; 
and in each “V”-st all the way to the 2nd last “V”-st from end ; 
dc in the ch-1 sp of that 2nd last “V”-st.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the neckline level.


For the neckline shaping, figure out how deep and wide you want your neckline, and then place a marker at the point that decides the sides of your neckline.
You will work from the armhole till the ch-1 sp of the marked st ; dc in that marked stitch.

You will once again Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the shoulder level, working one shoulder at a time.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Once done, return to the other marker  (for the other side of the neckline) and work a dc in that marked ch-1 sp of that “V”-st. 
Once again, Rep Row 2 till your project reaches the shoulder level. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.

You have completed one side of your yoke.

Repeat instructions for the other side (back) of the yoke.

The only difference is that you will need to work in a small opening for the back button, and for this, I’d suggest that you keep a small opening just on the last few rows and at that time you will work back and forth for these few rows from the centre of your yoke to the armhole end and back till you reach the shoulder level. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Join your two yokes at the shoulders and sides.

For the skirt portion of our dress, we will work in rounds.



Part 3 : Skirt for your beautiful dress



I suggest you work the skirt portion of our dress in rounds.  We will be working the skirt part of our dress from the other side of the motifs.  So one side was the yoke, and we will now work from the other side.

Before we work out our stitch count, two points : 1) Ensure that you manage to get the stitch count by adding stitches if need be : and 2) The more the number of stitches you have (in multiples, of course), the more the flare / frills on your skirt for this dress.

Our stitch count for the skirt is 8

Just to get the number of stitches right, let’s work our first Start Round with a round of sc all around

Start : sc in 1st st and in each st all round, ensuring you have multiples of 8. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

For our skirt part, we have a “V”-st again. 
Here our “V”-st is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Once again I remind you that when I refer to “V”-st, I mean the stitch for this part of our project. Please do not confuse it with the earlier “V”-sts.  Thanks.

Round 1 : dc in 1st sc ;
*ch 1, sk next sc, “V”-st in the next sc ; ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 1, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : Rep Round 2.

Now here’s where your calculations start.

You need to check your gauge.  Our last bit of pineapple and border will be a total of 13 rows. 
1.       Check how many inches you have with 13 rounds of work.
2.     Check what is the total length for the skirt and dress you are working on
3.     Subtract the number of inches that you have calculated for those last 13 rounds of work and work the rounds given according to length.

As per the chart, there are increases in the ch-sps between the “V”-sts which means that there is an addition to the flare of your dress.  So the next few sets of rounds will be with the same general pattern, just increasing the space between and therefore increasing the flare.

Rounds 4 - 6 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 7 - 10 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Before working this row, please read the Note just below
Rounds 11 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 4, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note
 1.  This is the last row of plain “V”-sts and dc’s with ch-sps, and from the next row on we will start the first row for the pineapple.
You have worked out earlier the final length you need, and calculated how many inches will be added by these pineapples and border. So double check NOW that your calculations are right before you start this row.
IF you need more length, I’d suggest you continue with Round 10 till you are ready for the pineapple and border.

2. For the start of the pineapple, we will be working a total of 9 dc in the “V”-sts.  You can opt to add all 9 dc in the ch-2 sp OR you could make this a ch-3 sp in Round 10 or you could follow my instructions and split the 9 dc –
So my splitting : 2 dc in the 1st 2 dc of the “V’-st ; 5 dc in that ch-2 sp ; 2 more dc in the 2nd 2 dc of the same “V”-st = 9 dc total.

Round 12 : sl-st into the  1st “V”-st ; “V”-st in the same “V”-st  ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next 2 dc (of the “V”-st) ; 3 dc in the ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in the next 2 dc (of the “V”-st)] ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
*ch 3, dc in the next dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 7 times ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

The following round we start with the first of our pineapple-y bits. So a quick note here.  From experience, I’ve learned that it is best and simplest to check the number of ch-3 sps (for the pineapple) at the end of each round and/or each pineapple.  It’s the most awful thing to go round, complete the few hundred stitches, and find you have an error at the start – or worse realize this error three rounds down.

Round 14 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ;
*ch 5, sk next dc , sc in the next dc ; (ch 3, sc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7 times ; ch 5, sk next dc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 15 : Increase Round :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same 1’st “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ; [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we will split that increased “V”-st into two “V”-sts

Round 16 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ; “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ; [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 17 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ; ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ; [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 18 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ; [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 19 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ; {ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} once ; ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ; [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} 2 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 20 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ; {ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} 2 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ; [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} 3 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 21 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ; {ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} 3 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
 [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} 4 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 22 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st  ; {ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp} ;
rep {to} 4 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the “V”-st ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; [ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep {to} 5   times ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

With this, we’ve finished our beautiful pineapple.  
Put your work down and admire your handicraft for a bit.

Just three rounds to go.. yaay!

Round 23 : sl-st into the ch-2 sp of the 1st “V”-st  , 7 dc in the same ch-2 sp ;
*(sk next 2 ch-3 sps and 1 dc, 7 dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) once ; sk next 2 ch-3 sps and 1 dc, 5 dc in the ch-2 sp of the next “V’-st* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

As I’ve mentioned before, I am using a thicker 4-ply yarn, and the pattern was working differently for me. I have, therefore made a few changed is what I have done in my project, but I am writing these notes as shown in the diagram.
After all, I’ve always said, that each difference that you make in a pattern shows your creative *genius* J .. so go ahead, be different, and create a genius pattern!

Round 24 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 5 times ;
*dc in the next dc ;  rep (to) 6 times* ;
Rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

The final round of this superb dress is finished with a round of picot.
I have decided not to do this, as my yarn is too thick, but I’d suggest a ch-3 picot will work really well here.
The picot then would be (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hook)

Round 25 : sc in the 1st dc ; *(sc + picot in the next dc) ; sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

We’ve finished our dress as per the chart.  I just thought I’d add a small sleeve (of sorts) and am going to try and adapt a chart from another pattern for this one here. Let’s see how this works out.

If you are happy with your sleeveless dress, then you’re done ! So yaay!


Part 4 : Sleeves



As per this chart, our stitch count for the sleeve is 21, so for our first round, let’s run a round of sc all around in multiples of 21.

You may decide to add the sleeves and join them to the edge of the armhole (like a Magyar sleeve) or you may decide to join them together and make it all around. 

I am leaving the option to you and just working it back and forth in rows.
If you decide to make this a round, just join with a sl-st to the 1st st in a round.

Start : with a round of sc in multiples of 21 all around the armhole edge.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st sc ; *ch 4, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : sl-st in the 1st ch-4 sp ; sc in the same ch-4 sp ;
*(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 7 dc in the next ch-4 sp; 
sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : sl-st in the 1st ch-4 sp ; sc in the same ch-4 sp ;
*(ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp) ; dc in the next dc ; 
[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ; sc in the next ch-4 sp*
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we will work a dc 3-tog in the ch-4 sps.  
Please go to the top of this blog for a “how-to” refresher if needed.

Row 4 : sl-st in the 1st ch-4 sp ; sc in the same ch-4 sp ;
*ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 1, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In our last row, the pattern shows a ch-4 sp to finish.  
So you could either work as per this chart, or you could work a ch-3 picot as we have for the edge of our dress. 

Row 5 : sc in the 1st sc ; *(ch 4, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 4, sc in the next sc* ; rep *to* till end. 

IF you decide to work a picot ..
Row 6 : sc + picot in the 1st sc ; *(ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-2 sp) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 4, sc + picot in the next sc* ; rep *to* till end. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? J


Part 5 : Make your own button

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric.  I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top.  The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

For more information and photos on this little button, visit


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