Sweet Nothings Crochet: LATTICED CROCHET TOP

LATTICED CROCHET TOP

This is a pretty simple pattern and it works up pretty quickly. I found this chart and thought that it was a really nice pattern for someone who was just starting out with crochet to work on.

Just for your information, I have done this same stitch before as a jacket / bolero pattern too and you can get that free pattern at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/04/full-sleeved-lattice-bolero.html - so you can make a matching set .. of sorts.

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And inspired by this photo / chart, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of our lovely Indian Red rose knitting cotton yarn with a 3.0 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor or unbranded knitting cotton as well

International yarns : I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size : I have made this for a size S-M (34")

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftM

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

We will start this pattern from the base of the top – so first you need to decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start with.

Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.

Please read through the entire pattern sheet before starting to see what you would like to make as there are many ideas given here, as usual.

This is not my pattern – I found this chart and inspiration photograph – and these are my notes as I work on my pattern.

Part 1 : Front and Back

We will work two identical halves for this pattern – so one each for front and back.

If you decide you want to make this into a crop top, then I’d suggest you make two rectangles – one each for the front and back. The rectangle base will be half the waist/chest measure as indicated above, and the length (of the rectangle) will be however long you wish your crop top.

There is no decrease for armhole (no shaping).

Once done with your two rectangles, you will attach the shoulders and then the sides. You will automatically get a small magyar sleeve of sorts. Run a round of sc all around the neckline, armhole and base of the top (after you join the sides) and you will have a neat crop top ready.

May I suggest that if you are using this pattern to create a crop top, keep it a little loose, so that it will fashionably fall over the shoulder and look trendy ;)

If you want it to be a slightly longer top, you just continue with the pattern a little more, till you reach the level you wish for this top. Easy enough, right?

Finally for my project, I’ve decided to start with fdc and I have also worked a small fpdc (front post double crochet) border.

As it is a border, we will work it right at the end – so don’t worry why the fpdc has not shown up in Row 1.

That said you could start with a fdc row, and then work several rows of fpdc and then bpdc to start. (When you work in rows, one row will be fpdc, and the following row must be in bpdc. Check the top of this blog fora "how to")

If you are starting with the fpdc - bpdc rows, ensure that you keep notes and work the same number of rows for the 2nd side of your top too.

You could also decide to start the pattern right from the start base row, in which case you can start either with fsc or fdc – the choice of stitch does not matter, as long as you keep the stitch count and round measurements right.

The stitch count is in multiples of 6 + 1

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start : with fdc in multiples of 6 + 1 for half the round chest / bust / waist measure. Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc ;

ch 3, sk next fdc, sc in the next 3 fdc ;

*ch 5, sk next 3 fdc, sc in the next 3 fdc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 fdc ;

ch 3, sk next fdc, dc in the last fdc. Turn.

For this pattern, may I suggest that you work the sc into each stitch of the ch-sp and not around it, like we usually do. This will just fix the stitch neatly in the centre of the ch-sp, which will make your top look great. That said, for the pattern, it does not matter where you work your stitch – i.e into the chain or around it.

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ;

ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 5, sk next sc, (sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp)* ;

rep *to* till the last sc ;

ch 5, sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 4 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last sc ;

ch 3, sc in the last sc. Turn.

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Row 5 : trc in the 1^st sc ;

ch 3, (sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

*ch 5, sk next sc, rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till the last sc ;

ch 3, trc in the last sc

Row 6 : sc in the 1^st trc ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last sc ;

ch 5, sc in the last trc. Turn.

And that’s our one pattern repeat complete.

Rep Rows 3 to 6 till you reach the armhole or neckline level, whichever comes first , ending with either a Row 3 or 5.

Remember if you are working a crop top with the straight boat-like neckline, then you will work two rectangles without any decrease.

Part 2 : Armhole shaping

In case you want a slight armhole shaping, here’s what you need to do.

For the shaping of the armhole, you will first need to decide how deep you want this opening.

Decrease Row : sl-st past the 1^st ch-5 sp, next 3 sc and the next 3 ch (of the next ch-5 sp).

You will now work the pattern as directed all the way till the 2^nd last ch-5 sp from the other end ; till you reach the neckline level.

Part 3 : Square neckline shaping

At this point you will need to decide how deep you want your neckline. Once you’ve got that figured, here’s what you need to do.

Count off from the centre to the side of the square and place a marker at the side 3-sc set. Of course you need to decide how wide you want your neckline

1. Once you have both the depth and width figured, count off and place two markers to mark the two sides of your neckline

2. You will now work from one side of your armhole to this side marker and then back to the armhole.

3. You will work all the way from armhole to neckline till you reach the shoulder

4. Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off

5. Re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker for the other side of the neckline to shoulder portion and work all the way from neckline to armhole till you reach the second shoulder. Fasten off.

You have successfully completed the front or one side of your top.

Work all these instructions for the back or other side of your top.

Remember that you may not want the same depth for the back of your neckline, so you will need to re-work the depth and width of your back neckline.

IF you decide to have a completely high neckline, then you will work from armhole to armhole, side to side all the way to the shoulder.

Part 4 : Sleeve idea

While I have not made a sleeve, you could. So once you have joined the shoulders and sides, you have an armhole.

You can work in a sleeve with both the rectangle finish as well as the shaped armhole finish.

If you are working in a sleeve, ensure that the armhole is slightly loose, so that there is a little *give* along the top of the sleeve – i.e when you attach on the sleeve, it should not hurt the wearer when they lift the arm… but then this is a general rule for all sleeve attachments.

The stitch count here will be in multiples of 6 and you will work in rounds. You will run a round of sc all around ensuring you get the stitch count needed.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 3 sc ;

*ch 5, sk next 3 sc, sc in the next 3 sc* ;

rep *to* till the last 2 sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the last sc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ;

ch 3, sc in the last sc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Now follow the pattern using Rows 3 – 6, but working in rounds and joining at the end with a sl-st every time.

Rep Rounds 3 to 6 till you reach the sleeve length you desire, ending with either a Row 3 or 5.

For the final finishing please check ideas in Part 5.

Part 5 : Finishing

Once you have completed both the front and the back pieces, you will join your two shoulder bits and then the sides to finish off the top. I suggest that you run a round or two of sc all around the neckline as well as the armhole / end of sleeve for a neat finish.

Now if you decide you want that slight border along the base (and neckline / armhole), here’s what I have done.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpdc at https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s

Once I’d attached both front and back (along sides and shoulders), I worked 2-3 rounds of fpdc all around the bottom of the top. As the sides are attached, it worked out neatly and I loved that there is not attachment that shows for the joining of the sides. Work fpdc for as many rows as you think you need to get a flat base. Once again, these rows do not really affect the pattern, so go ahead and create.

If you so decide, work the same fpdc around the neckline and armhole too.

Fasten off and weave in all ends. Block as required per yarn instructions.

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html