Sweet Nothings Crochet: OFF-THE-SHOULDERS PINEAPPLE COLLARED TOP (# 3)

OFF-THE-SHOULDERS PINEAPPLE COLLARED TOP (# 3)

Yes, this seems to be one of the *in* thing right now, and I am thrilled to make yet another off-the-shoulder top. For this one, I plan on keeping a simple shell pattern along the body so that all the stunning effect of the pineapple collar / off the shoulder-ness is in full vision ;) !

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The body pattern is simple enough, but thanks to my lovely friends, when I showed them the pattern I was thinking up, they gave me this pattern link.

So this blog has one off the shoulder top as well several other top ideas

.. and those don’t include my own pattern links at the bottom of this blog.

This blog post really is the golden pot at the end of a rainbow

Please remember, that it is nice if you could share my blog link for this pattern when you make your product – after all, it helps to pay it forward

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

As always, I request you to please go through my really detailed instructions for lots of ideas, tips and tweaks.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 300 gms of a really lovely Indian Hobby India Crochet Thread (# 5) yarn with a 2.5 / 3 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : You could use Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : I actually started writing my blog to help Indians figure out how we can use our slightly smaller range of yarns. I find however, that now there are many Non-Indians who want suitable yarns as well.

So among the international yarns I’ve used of a similar thickness, I’d say that Aunt Lydia cotton 10 ; Aunt Lydia Bamboo & Viscose (10) ; DMC Petra ; or Milford Satin with a 2 mm hook or Milford Soft ; HilazaRustica Eclat with a 2.5 – 3mm

In case you work with some other yarn that gives you a great end result, I’d love if you could share, so I can add it to this list so we could help someone else along. Cheers.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.

Size made : Bust 40” x Length 24”

Gauge : Gauge is not important. You can make this top for any size.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I have worked this pattern is top down.

For this pattern, we will start at the armhole / shoulders and work our way down to the waist. Of course as this is a cropped off the shoulders, there is no shoulder on this pattern, but as we need *someplace* to call the *top*(especially for measurement-talk), let’s keep that the shoulder.

It does not matter if you work top down or bottom up. What will differ is the way the stitches look (i.e. if you work top down, you will get “V”s and bottom up will be an inverted “V”)

We will work two halves (one each for the front and back), and then join it along the sides.

Now then.. calculations ..

1) You will need the round chest and round waist measures.

2) You will also need to decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start with.

3) Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.

I’d like to quote Marie-Noelle Bayard who said “Play around with materials, colors, stitches. Everything is allowed! Crochet is a magnificent adventure that opens the doors to your wildest imagination and creativity.”

So let’s create something here, and have fun!

Part 1 : Front and Back

We will work two identical halves for this pattern –one each for front and back.

For the body part of our top, there is this ready-made chart that I am using from on Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/28-29-4-fine-merino-camisole

The pattern that I am using is only part of the chart given (Pattern B).

Using this chart / link, you can create another full top, so let your creative juices flow.

If you check the top, I’ve said (under Materials), that I’ve used a 2.5 mm and 3 mm hook. This is how I’ve increased the width a bit without changing the pattern. So you can use this technique as well. Use the larger hook for any part of the top that you need a little wider or more stretch.

The stitch count is in multiples of 7 + 1.

Start : with fsc in multiples of 7 + 1.

Note: You will make a start foundation single crochet chain length = half the round chest /waist

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

(ch 1, dc in the same fsc) ; rep (to) once ;

*sk next 6 fsc, dc in the next fsc ;

rep (to) 5 times* ;

rep *to* till last 7 fsc ;

sk next 6 fsc, dc in last fsc ;

rep (to) 2 times. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the same dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

*sk the next four ch-1 sps ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

[ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp] ;

rep [to] 4 times* ;

rep *to* till the end ;

dc in the last dc ;

rep (to) 2 times. Turn.

And that’s it. This is our pattern repeat for the whole body of the top.

Before we set off, remember that each pattern is being worked in the centre ch-1 sp all through.

Rep Row 2 till you have the length needed for your top.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rep instructions for the other half of your top, and we’ll meet back here shortly to create the beautiful pineapple collar.

Part 2 : Finishing sides of top

Once you have completed both the front and the back pieces, you will join the sides to finish off the top. You now have a cylinder-like top that will be from the armhole / neckline to the waist level. We will now first work on the pineapple collar and then attach that on.

Part 3 : Lacy pineapple collar

There are so many pineapple collars that I am going a wee bit crazy and I know that I am going to make a different one really soon.

I am using this lovely chart from http://kopilka-shem.ru/29-interesnoe-plate.html

Go ahead and work on this if you do not need notes… else join me and let’s work on the collar together.

I was inspired to make this top by this photograph ..

Now here are a few thoughts before we start on the collar.

The collar has 13 rows / rounds in total. So calculate how many inches you get with 13 rows of work and you can figure out how long this is going to be.

If you want it longer, then you could work a few rows of dc before you start on the collar pattern.

Our stitch count for the collar is in multiples of 10.

We will work the collar in rounds.

Start Round 1 : with fsc in multiples of 10.

Keeping the chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwoGTvFbxbg

We will use a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 2 : “V”-st in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 1, sk next 4 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

From now on, we will work our “V”-sts in the ch-1 sp of the earlier “V”-st unless otherwise specified.

For your 1^st st, you will always sl-st into the “V”-st ch-1 sp.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following row, we will work a Special “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the ch-1 sp of the earlier “V”-st.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 3, Special “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

From now on , we’re back to our first regular “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 3, 8 dc in the ch-3 sp of the next Special “V”-st ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 3, dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

From the following rows, I’ve gone slightly off chart. In the chart, it shows a ch-3 sp between the “V”-sts and the pineapple pattern that’s starting in between.

I feel that the ch-3 sp makes it too lacy.

So here’s where your creativity and individuality come in. Decide whether you want a ch-2 or ch-3 sp, and follow along.

Round 7 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 2, sk next dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 9 : Increase round : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st ,

“V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 10 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st ,

“V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 11 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st ,

“V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

*ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st * ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 12 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st ,

“V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

*ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 13 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st ,

“V”-st in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

(ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

As we reach our final round, you can either finish off like the chart ;

OR add on the picot in between each ch-1 sp of the “V”-sts all around ;

OR you can work this final round as is, and then work a round of picots all around. If you decide to do the final option, then remember to work 1 sc per ch-1 sp, and 1 sc in each dc of the “V”-st and the picot in the ch-1 sp in between each “V”-st.

All that said, I am writing the pattern as charted.. and you go ahead and create your unique last round.

Round 14 : sl-st into the 1^st “V”-st ,

2 dc in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

(ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next ch-3 sp) ;

*[ch 1, 2 dc in the next “V”-st] ;

rep [to] once ; rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 4 : Shoulder Straps

You can leave this beautiful creation without a strap and attach in a small bit of elastic just under the top row and / or you can opt to add a strap.

For the strap, I have run a row of fsc for the length needed from back to front over the shoulder. I then ran a round of sc all around. Just so that the strap could match the border a bit, I have worked a small border along the strap.

So I ensured that the fsc chain was in multiples of 3.

I then worked the following pattern :

ch 2 + 2 dc all in the 1^st st ; sk next 2 sts and sl-st in the next st ;

(ch 2 + 2 dc all in the same st as the sl- st ; sk next 2 sts and sl-st in the next st)

I worked this pattern on both sides of the fsc chain and voila, a cute little strap ready!

Attach the strap onto your top. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 5 : Final finishing

So you have the top ready with or without the strap, and you have the collar all done. Now to put the collar onto the top.

OFF-THE-SHOULDERS PINEAPPLE COLLARED TOP (# 3) finished

Place the collar (folded double) and mark centre front and centre back.

Mark the centre front and centre back for both the top.

Place the collar and align the centres front and back, and pin this down.

Now continue to pin your collar to the top till you have just the armhole opening on each side. (i.e your collar will not be pinned down all the way).

Using one of the joining methods given above, attach the collar to the top.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

OFF-THE-SHOULDERS PINEAPPLE COLLARED TOP (# 3) with collar down

OFF-THE-SHOULDERS PINEAPPLE COLLARED TOP (# 3) on mannequin

And I am SURE you’ll agree with me that this is one deadly beautiful top, right?

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html