LATTICED
CROP TOP
Cold shoulder crop top / sari blouse
I
am sure you have worked the lattice pattern before, and you may have worked on a cold shoulder pattern as well. With this creation, I have used two patterns
to create this one latticed cold shoulder crop top.
I
am writing these instructions such that it can be made for any size using
any yarn. The pattern uses really simple stitches, so in that way it is an
Easy – Intermediate skill level BUT there are calculations that need to be made
which are slightly trickier, and that requires some advanced skill levels.
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I
think that this crop top will be a neat and unusual sari blouse – so tweak and
create away… come along, let’s work on this beautiful creation together.
And inspired by these photos, here are my
pattern notes as I work on my project. As always, I have loads of information sprinkled through the blog - for a sleeveless ; or sleeved or cinched cropped top creation - so please read through all my detailed and painstakingly written notes.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of Baroque knitting cotton with a 1.75 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any
size.
Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I have been inspired by this pattern for the latticed top, though not in English, at
I
have decided to change the pattern a bit, and am only keeping the lattice
pattern along the side. Along the centre
portion, I am going to use a simpler dc and ch-1 sp combination as against the
3 dcs. I have also decided to keep my
top a little shorter. All that said,
this write up has ideas and information on how you can do a whole load of
things with this pattern – so come along and let’s create something beautiful
together.
We
start our project from the bottom up – from the base of the top to the
shoulders.
So
our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you
are working with – ie. How long do you want your top?
IF
you want it till the waist, then you will start with half round waist
measure. Remember that you need to check
both the half chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half
round measure.
Now if the waist is the lesser measure, but you want it cinched, then you could work a few additional rows (after you finish the top - you come back to the fsc row and do this). You can work dc in every fsc and work in rows, leaving the side open a bit. Attach a button along this open side and voila, you have a cinched waist!
Alternatively, you can attach a small piece of elastic as well and get a great fit. :)
Want to make this a longer top? Just work the rectangle for the length you need from waist to armhole and you have a regular long top - not a cropped one.
Part
1 : Front and back
Make two
We will make two rectangles for our crop top and attach
the shoulder blades and the sides. The
neck will automatically become boat-like and the shoulders will flop over to
become a smallish raglan-like sleeve.
As I mentioned at the start, I am only using the
lattice pattern along one side from this pattern and the rest is going to be
all dc and ch-1 sps. Hence there is no
stitch count for this pattern.
You just need to start with an uneven number of
stitches , and you need to ensure is that you get half the round measure as
mentioned above and we are all set to go.
So how will this work?
This is going to be a super creative top – as you can work the lattice
pattern anywhere you wish. Here are
ideas.
The original photograph shows it on the right hand
side, going up to the right shoulder – so this is one option.
You can have it going up to your left shoulder, or you
can have it straight down the centre as well.
The beauty of this pattern is that even if you get
it slightly wrong and your lattice is not bang in the centre but just off
it, it does not matter as you only have this one row going down and as
long as you get the stitches one on top of the other, you’re good !
Assuming that you are going to have the lattice work
along one side , going up to the shoulder, (any one side - doesn’t matter), here
are the instructions.
First you need to calculate your round measure and take
half that round measure. Now you need to
check where along the front you would like to have your lattice pattern.
Our lattice pattern has a stitch count of 11 stitches.
The chart below is explanation of how a lattice stitch works.. but I did not use 3 dc in each st or ch-sp as indicated in this chart. I worked 1 dc only. However, this chart will give you a lovely filled in look, so go ahead and try this out too :)
OK.. now for our first row of pattern, you will need to place
a marker for the 1st st you are going to use for the lattice
pattern. Thereafter you will just work
off that stitch for the pattern and work the rest of the top in the simpler
pattern.
Start with fsc and in an uneven number for half the
round waist / chest measure. Turn.
As always remember that you need to take the larger measure (i.e round waist or round chest - whichever is larger)
We will start our lattice pattern from the very first
row.
So place this fsc chain down and place a marker for
where you want to start your lattice pattern.
The lattice pattern stitch count is 11, which means
that the centre of this lattice will be your 6th stitch (of
the 11 sts needed for the lattice pattern).
So if you want it perfectly centred, see exactly
where you want the centre to be and mark it out.
Ensure that your marker is on an uneven numbered
stitch just for convenience.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc
;
*[ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc]* ;
rep *to* till your marked stitch ;
(ch 11, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the ch-11 sp ;
rep [to] till end.
Turn
Now here starts the “difficulty”.
You have to remember that the lattice stitch moves one
dc outside or to the left each row, (while we are creating the
lattice pattern), till it reaches the
centre of the lattice stitch, and then it will move inside or to the right
each row till you complete the stitch.
Got it?
So what does this mean for us? It means that you
will remember to move your marker OR remember which stitch we are using for the
lattice pattern.
In this case (row 1), the 1st st of the
lattice is the dc before the ch-11 sp, and the 2nd st is the one
just after, right?
BUT when we return, the 1st st and 2nd
sts are reversed..
and you still have the ch-11 sp in between.
My instructions therefore will read dc before ch-11
sp or before ch-5 sp and I hope you know which dc I refer to.
Row 2 : dc in the
1st dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ; ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next
ch-11 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.
Now you know what I meant about the lattice stitch
moving outwards? So with each row, you
will
(a) you will
work in the dc before your marked st , and
(b) move your
marker to the last dc of the lattice st.
OK?
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ;
ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in
the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ;
ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in
the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.
Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ;
ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in
the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the dc before the marked st ;
dc in that dc ;
ch 5, sk next marked dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in
the next 7 sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn.
Fantastic ! We have reached the centre of our lattice
stitch pattern.
From here on, we will be working inwards and so
we will work in the dc after, and in the ch-sp to close the lattice
stitch. Got it?
Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc ; sc in the next 7 sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn
Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn
Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn
Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next sc ; sc in the next sc ;
ch 5, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the second ch-5 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn
And before you know it, we’ve completed one lattice
stitch. Beautiful, isn’t it?
Row 11 : dc in the 1st dc
;
*(ch 1, dc in
the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till the the marked st ; dc in the marked dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 11, sk next sc , dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
Move marker to the dc you just worked
on – i.e the dc after the ch-11 sp ; rep (to) till end. Turn
We have completed one pattern repeat.
Rep Rows 2 – 11 all the way to the top of the
shoulders.
As I mentioned before, we are working two rectangles for our crop top and then attaching the shoulders and sides to finish it off.
Now before you rush off to finish, here are a few ideas
for side increase.
Our basic body pattern is (dc ; ch 1, dc). If you want a small increase and shape , then I suggest that you work in a small increase of 2 sts every 4 – 6 rows.
Increase row : dc in the
1st dc ; ch 1, dc in the same 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc
in the next dc) ; rep (to) till the marked st for lattice pattern ; work
lattice pattern and then rep (to) till the last dc ; ch 1, dc in the same
last dc. Turn.
Now remember that if you decide to work in an
increase, you must make a note of where you are increasing. I’d suggest you place a marker – and then you
will work in the same increases for the other side of your top too.
Right then, let’s finish the two rectangles, and we’ll
meet back here shortly for more fun stuff.
Before you rush off to make the 2nd (front)
side of the top, please check Part 2 below.
Part
2 : Neckline shaping
Initially I thought that I’d make this with 2
rectangles, but as I was working on the front, I thought of making a small
neckline shape. As we are working on a
simple pattern, the shaping is pretty simple too. Here’s the gist of what I have done
a)
Decide how deep you want your neck and place a marker
there
b)
Decide how wide you want it and place 2 markers to show
you the two sides of the neckline
c)
Now work in pattern all the way from the armhole to
this neckline and back.
d)
You can decide to work this for the back as well – show
off your creativity. Have fun.
Now after having said all this, I went ahead and worked
in another tweak. I found this photograph
and I loved the single strappy shoulder – so decided to add in this feature
too. This gave it that open cold
shoulder effect that I loved!
In case you want to do this as well, here are the ideas.
Please read through all these points before you pick up your hook.
a)
As before, you need to decide and place markers for how
‘wide’ you want the neckline. This is
very important as you only have one large shoulder strap – so you do need to
mark both sides properly.
b)
You will work one strap (the side with the lattice
pattern) all the way to the shoulder.
c)
Before you start working on the straps for the 2nd
side, I have run a round of hdc all around the neckline to finish it neatly.
d)
On completion of one strap, one usually
re-attaches yarn for the 2nd
side. In this case though, you will be
working a set of 3 or 4 tiny straps that will join the front and back halves of
your top.
e)
So what does this mean?
Let’s assume you have a 4” wide shoulder strap on the lattice patterned
side, so you will have one marker at the same 4” for both the front and back
rectangle. Work a fsc chain that will join the two marked points for the front
and back. This will be your first tiny
strap.
f)
Similarly work 3 – 4 straps all going from different
points of the front half of your top to the same point of your back
half. By same point I mean that you will
keep the straps at the back as close together as you can, so that you get a
neat “V” look for the straps coming down over the front.
g)
Once you have 3 – 4 straps joining the front and back,
make one last strap that will join the ends of the front and back, that will
also mark your armhole opening.
Part
3 : Finishing
So you have successfully finished two halves of your
vest. Using one of the joining methods
giving above, join the shoulders and sides of this vest.
I have then run a round of hdc all around the armhole
and base of the top to neatly finish it off.
In case you are making this into a sari blouse and want
a slightly fitted finish at the bottom, may I suggest that you work in a few
hdc 2-tog all around to cinch it a bit.
Remember that this needs to come over your head and bust, so adding in
an elastic and as set of buttons along the bottom would work really well too.
Part
4 : Sleeves
I finished the top, loved it, had it modelled and put it
up on Instagram .. and it was sold almost instantly. I then was requested to add on cap sleeves if
I could..
So here’s what I did to add on the tiny cap sleeves.
1)
Run a round of
sc all around the armhole, neatly picking up stitches. The thumb rule is 1 sc per ch-1 sp and 2 sc
per vertical bar of the dc. Ensure you
keep a count of how many you deftly pick up for the first armhole and mirror
for the second.
2)
Ensure you pick up an uneven number of stitches.
3)
We will work the body pattern of (dc ; ch 1, sk a st,
dc in the next st) pattern for the sleeves
4)
For the armhole that has just the fine strappy finish
(opposite side of lattice work), I used the last of the straps.
5)
Work the basic body pattern till you have the sleeve
length desired.
6)
Final round, you could work a dc in each dc and a dc in
each ch-1 sp all around, if desired.
7)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
