Friday 10 July 2015

LEGO BACK PACK 2


photo of a cute little girl modeling the backpackphoto of a young boy modelling the same backpack
LEGO BACK PACK 2

If you’ve been following my blogs, you’ll know that this is my fourth Lego creation – I made the Lego blanket for a baby first, then one for a little kitten, and my then my first Lego backpack.  
This backpack is for a young boy and I thought I’d make another small change from the last backpack I’d made.  
So while the basic idea and Lego block creation stays the same, here are my notes for the differences / tweaks. 

If you have read my blog about the blankets, then you’ll know what I mean about the video link here..
What I love most about this video link is that the super designer does not waste any time in talking about anything.. just goes straight into the project – my kind of video ! 

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”.  Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.


All my blogs can be printed.  Find the printer friendly (green) link on the right side of this blog.  You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.

Remember that you only print if absolutely essential.  Save paper – Save Our Earth. 


Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. 

Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.


To purchase this or similar yarn online, click the highlighted links below to buy your yarns online via Amazon.  While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. 

This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me.  Cheers.


Materials used : Today I’ve used Vardhaman acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers 

For Indians You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns  ; Baby soft acrylic yarn ,Oswal acrylic yarns, Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
     
International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.




Stitches used : Using U.S. terminology
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch :  https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ?  https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA

Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8

“Pop”  stitch :  The designer has used the following stitch and called it a “Pop” stitch.  It is 5 trc, all in the same st… so just writing it again here for convenience.

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S terminology
lp(s) : Loop(s)                 sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet        sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch              fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)              hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                ch : Chain
ch-sp : chain space
trc : triple crochet
trc 5-tog : triple crochet 5-tog. 

  
Instructions :
The designer has a superb video that is totally self explanatory.  My notes here are only for the small start change, the use of the wonderful chainless dc start, and a finishing idea / difference.

Now here’s what I’ve done on this write up.  Below is the *regular* way the bag is made, just in case you missed that earlier blog about it.. and then is the tweak I’ve made for this one.  This is because I’ve made two bags – one the *regular* way and one tweaked.

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

Start with 14 fdc.  Turn.
The designer has started with a 17 ch and then dc in the 4th ch on to get a row of 14 dc.  Ever since I discovered the fdc, I find that the start this gives is easy, even and neat – and I just cannot use any other start – however, this is just a choice.

Depending on the thickness of your yarn, you could work a dc 5-tog instead of a trc 5-tog for your ‘pop stitch’.  Check the top of this blog for a video on dc 5-tog.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc ; 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ; 
*sc in the next 2 sc ; 
“pop” st in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till last 2 sc ; 
sc in the last 2 sc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; dc in each st till end.  Turn.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.

Finishing for Lego block : sc in each st till end ; 1 more sc in the corner sc ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way down ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work on the bottom of your start fdcs, do an sc in each st across ; 1 more sc in the corner st ;
Turn your work at 90° and work an sc in each horizontal bar of dc all the way back up ; 1 more sc in the corner st (back where we started out).  Join with a sl-st to the first st.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

One Lego block made.

So for Back Pack 1, I used this pattern and made the full front of the bag with its regular Lego bricks.  For Back Pack 2, see my tweaks below.

Back Pack 2 tweaks :
I made the Lego brick in the same way as with the *regular* pattern.  For the 2nd brick though, instead of making a brick and then joining later, I decided to use the “Join-as-you-go” method and see if that worked.

So for Lego Brick 2 , I started by re-attaching yarn for the next brick on the WRONG SIDE of Lego brick 1. Sl-st in each st till end.  Turn. (Ensure you have 14 sts)

The reason for attaching on the wrong side : so that the pop stitch then comes in on the same side as with the 1st brick.  So now ensure that this works for you too.

Next row : dc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end.  Turn.  

I then followed instructions from Row 1 on as for the *regular* brick.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc , 5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ; 
*sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ; rep *to* till last 2 sc ; sc in the last 2 sc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; dc in each st till end.  Turn.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.

Right then, you’ve now got your one column of Lego bricks.  I then made the 2nd column similarly, and then to join these two, decided to do a single longer Lego brick.

After making all these bricks, you too would have figured out the count repeat for this lovely construction.  

Our Lego brick is a 3 + 2 repeat count.

So for the longer brick, I re-attached the yarn along one of the longer end of the rectangular column of Lego bricks just made, ensuring I have a stitch count of 3 + 2. 

photo of the full front of the back pack

Next row : dc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. 
Turn. 
I then followed instructions from Row 1 on as for the *regular* brick.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 dc ;
5 trc (or “pop” stitch) in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 2 sc ; “pop” st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 sc ;
sc in the last 2 sc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ;
dc in each st till end.  Turn.

In our final row, we will join this long Lego brick with the 2nd column we’ve made.
For this, ensure that you keep the wrong sides facing one another and work the sc-join (as per the video link given for the original Lego brick) between the two brick columns. 

If this is too complicated a join, you could finish off the long Lego brick row, and then whip stitch it to the other column.

Finishing for Back Pack :
a)  Now I thought that for the back of my bag (i.e the part that rests against the back and so does not really show) I’d do a neat striped pattern – so I just made a rectangle of the same size as I have for the front, using one colour per line.  Yes, this does mean that there are a lot of colour changes, but I love this finish too.

photo of the full back of the back pack

Once I’ve made this back piece, I will then attach the Lego brick front to this back piece with an sc-join or whip stitch. 
(Informative links given right on top of this blog)

b)    We also need two shoulder straps and for this I made a long fdc chain and then used one colour for each row. I’ve then lined this strap as well to give it more strength. 
(You'll see what I mean in the photos below)

photos showing the back of the back packphoto showing back of backpack to show how to join strapsthird photo of the back of the backpack showing tie cord detail at joint


Measurements / Length calculations for the back of your backpack
The two back straps are a fairly easy calculation – you just hold a tape measure across the back of your backpack and decide how much you need – ensuring that you have a good 2-3” for joining on both top and bottom ends.  Ensure that your backpack strap fits flat against the bag, as there is a stretch in the yarn that will come with use – even if you do line the straps when lining the bag.

c)  Our final finishing will be the pull tie top for this bag. 
     So I first did one round of sc around the top of the bag, and then followed it up with a round of dc in 1st sc ; (ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) all around till the end. 
I then did one more round of dc, and ended with one round of sc all around.
This gave me a nice top round that you can easily thread in your pull tie.

For my pull tie, I just held a few of the coloured yarns and used a 10mm crochet hook to do a row of chains for the length needed.
I finally added a little shell at the end of each yarn, which not only neatly hides that end, but also gives it a cute finish.

Or check out this video


photo of the tie cord detail

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook.  I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page.  Cheers.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/


Join me on YouTube at https://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/

Have a great day and see you soon. 

You may want to take a look at these other beautiful and unusual bag / purse patterns.

































http://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2015/01/shelled-clutch.html