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Tuesday, 14 February 2017

EXQUISITE FLOWER BEANIE

free crochet beanie pattern, free crochet ladies beanie

EXQUISITE FLOWER BEANIE

#Blogaday 45/365

This is a cap / beanie that has been shared several times on Facebook and has been on my “To-do” list for just about ever!  I am thrilled to have an opportunity to use the lovely photo tutorial and write the pattern out for it.

As with all my patterns, I try to make it as easy as possible, with as many links to videos for stitches as well as diagrams.  This pattern has no left and right glove and they are totally inter-changeable.

I do not know if this pattern has been written up before. I only know that I got the photo tutorial for this floral pattern from the internet and have used it to make my cap.  These are my notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 75 gms of our lovely 4 ply KDR Baby Love acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook.

Skill level : Intermediate to advanced

Size made : The cap is 21” adult

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                      ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                                          sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                              hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                        
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet          

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. 
How to work the fpdc :  yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete 

      

Pattern Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

free crochet beanie pattern

Before we head off into the slightly complicated pattern, I’d like to explain what we’re planning on doing here.

The floral pattern is really soft and makes for a really lovely start, but do remember as we’re pulling a whole load of yarns up, it may be a bit of a tangle – so I’d suggest that we only work one round of the flowers.

That said, go ahead and create and be different. 

For the cap, I have been inspired by this lovely pattern I saw on Facebook, which has a superb photo tutorial, but no written pattern.



Our stitch count for this pattern is 8. We will start at the brim of the cap, and work our way up to the crown of the cap. 

Start with fdc in multiples of 8 (for round forehead measure) and keeping the fdc chain carefully flat, join to the 1st stitch to make a round.
We now have a neat dc row all ready to start.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

In the following round, we will use our post stitch (fpdc) in every alternate stitch.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st fdc ;
*fpdc around the next fdc ; dc in the next fdc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.



Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*fpdc around the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 : hdc in the 1st dc ; hdc in the next 6 dc ;
*ch 1, sk next dc , hdc in the next 7 dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; 
(ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc) ; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
*rep (to) once ; ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, hdc in the next hdc ; rep (to) once ; hdc in the next 2 hdc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 5 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; 
(ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in the next hdc) ; 
[ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc] ;
*rep (to) 3 times ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

So this is the pattern of holes you should have.  They have been coloured to show you which ones we will be using and in which order.


Look at the pattern we’re going to create.  We need to work five sets of petals in a “V” formation and gather them all up together.
So first let’s see which ch-1 sps we will use.  Here are my diagrams for it.  








 So 1st ch-1 sp has 3 sts ; then you work 3 sts in the ch-1 sp below it ; then 3 sts in the next ch-1 sp (to the left and one row below), and we’re then mirroring to complete the flower.

What is the stitch that we use for our flower petals?  So here’s where it gets mighty complicated.

We will use a dc 3-tog BUT we will work a dc 3-tog continuously in all 5 ch-1 sps, which means that we will have a whole load of loops to go through when we finish off (30 in total, if not more.. I haven’t counted!)
So you will work a 3 dc-tog in the 1st ch-1 sp ; continue on to the next ch-1 sp and work 3 dc-tog in that one, so on till you have got all the loops for all 5 ch-1 sps on your hook, and then you will finally yarn over, and draw through all the loops bunching it all up as one neat flower.

The second complication : We will use the 1st and last ch-1 sps twice. Once to work in the dc 3-tog and once to work in a st.

The third complication : You will need to be in the brown square for the 1st set of dc 3-tog.  So if you are not at that sp, please sl-st till you reach this ch-1 sp

The final complication : You will need to decide if you are working all your flower petals rounds in the same color as the cap or changing colours.  If you decide to change colours, you will do it starting Round 6.

Ok.. now that I’ve given you a visual of all of this, let’s work it.
Before you work Round 6, may I request you to read the Notes just after Round 7. Thanks.



Round 6 : (Flower petal round) : [dc 3-tog in 1st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just below ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp below and to the left ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp to the left and above ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just above ; yarn over and pull through all loops to complete one flower petal] ;
ch 1, and hdc in the last ch-1 sp used for the flower petal ; 3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp (yellow square on the diagram) ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
{ ch 1, dc 3-tog in same ch-1 sp (as the last sc) ;
dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just below ;
dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp below and to the left ;
dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp to the left and above ;
 dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just above ;
yarn over and pull through all loops to complete one flower petal ;
ch 1, and hdc in the last ch-1 sp used for the flower petal ;
3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp (yellow square on the diagram) ;
hdc in the next ch-1 sp } ; rep  {to} all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
One petal round complete.

Yes, a lot of work, but isn’t it just fab!

Ok, back to work.

For the next 3 rounds, we will once again form the base for the next set of petals.  So we will work 7 sts between two flower petals, but skip the petal tops.

Round 7 : hdc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(hdc in the next 5 hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, sk top of flower petal, hdc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

At the end of this row, you will have (once again) 7 hdc followed by one ch-1 sp all around, which is the base row for the next set of flower petals.

STOP and please read these Notes :

1.       We have completed one pattern repeat.  Rep Rounds 3 – 7 till your project reaches the length you need. 
2.     We will be working in rounds, so we will end up with a cylinder which we will join at the top to make our cap.
3.     If you decide to change colours, you will change for the second set of colours after you complete the base for the 2nd set of flower petals.  Which means that you will change when you reach Round 6, the flower petal round.  You will then use the contrast or second set of colours all the way through till you reach Round 6 again for the next set of petals.
4.     As you can see from the pattern, the longest dc 3-tog comes right on top of the top of the earlier flower, so all you need to do is follow the pattern as you have worked the 1st time around, and all your ch-sps will align up.
5.     Finally, if you are using a thicker yarn, you could well work a dc 2-tog for each flower petal (instead of a dc 3-tog) , or use double threads and still work a dc 2-tog (which is what the designer seems to have done).  I have worked a dc 3-tog with my lavender 4-ply yarn, and am going to double up a 3-ply yarn in darker purple and work a dc 2-tog for the contrast flowers, just to see if this works.

Once your project is the length needed, fasten off and leave a tail to attach.

So once again, here is an idea.
You can either work the flower pattern all the way to the top, or you could work just a few rounds for the bottom and then work plain sc /hdc / dc to the top / crown of the cap.

Even if you decide to work the pattern all the way to the top, you will still need a plain part on the top, before you join up.

So you will end on the flower round (Round 7), and on the following round, here’s what I have done

Next round : hdc in the 1st ch-1 sp ; (hdc in the next 5 hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc) ; rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

From this round on, work 1 hdc in each hdc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Continue working all the way to the crown (i.e the length of your cap) and then we will finish off our beanie.

There are several ways to attach the top of your cap, and here are two ideas that I have used successfully.


 Top finishing A : (Same for beret or slouchy)
1.       Fold your ‘cylindrical’ project in half, mark the halfway (mid) point ; then fold again in half and mark the quarter points.

2.     Pass your embroidery needle first through the halfway or mid-point ; then through the 1st quarter point and finally through the 2nd quarter point.  You will have a ‘star’ shaped top now.


1.       Pass your embroidery needle through the mid-point of the opening closest to you, then the mid-point exactly opposite that ; followed by the next mid-point of the opening closest to you, then the mid-point exactly opposite that.
2.     Continue slowly reducing the opening till you’ve sealed it totally.  Push your embroidery needle through to the ‘under-side’ of your work. Fasten off.



Weave in ends.  Block as per yarn instructions.

Top finishing B : (same for beret or slouchy)

1.       Using your embroidery needle, do a loose ‘running stitch’ through the top end of your slouchy, all the way around.  (A “running stitch” is one where you go through the fabric from top to bottom, leaving a little space, pass your needle from bottom to top, continuing to go through “running through your fabric” till you reach the end)


2.     Pull lightly till the top bunches up neatly.


3.     Sew in the ends around the top.  Push your embroidery needle through to the ‘under-side’ of your work.  Fasten off. 
4.     Weave in ends.  Block as per yarn instructions.

and a little photobombing - to show you the top (crown) ..



free crochet beanie pattern

free beanie crochet pattern

 and more to show you a totally satisfied client... who swears this is her *most fave cap evvvah* !

free crochet beanie pattern

free crochet beanie pattern

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few gloves that I’ve made before, so here are those pattern links for you.